Where is the MAF or MAP sensor on the EcoBoost?

BoosTang23T · Dec 2, 2017

jbailer said:
Some of the You Tube videos on this subject are hilarious. Remember, ANYONE can post a video.... The guy with the Ford Truck that says he says 3 MAP sensors. :headbonk: Theirs is very similar to our Mustang ecoboost. It's actually an IAT (Intake Air Temperature) sensor he was looking at that he thought was a MAF (Mass Air Flow) sensor and was calling a MAP sensor. The sensor on the outlet of the intercooler is functionally like a MAP sensor, it's the Turbocharger Boost Pressure Sensor. The actual MAP sensor is on the manifold. So all similar. Plus where the MAP sensor is located, you should absolutely expect oil vapors in the air and will be on the sensor, this doesn't effect its operation or they wouldn't use it.

Cleaning a MAF sensor or better yet replacing it can make a big difference and is mostly a problem when people use an oiled air filter like you have and they over oil it. That oil comes off the filter and coats that thin sensitive wire on the MAF making it so it can't properly determine the volume of air passing though. It actually senses less air because of the oil so it tells the computer to provide less fuel making your engine run lean. If that was the case, you could see this on your cluster the A/F would be too lean based on the fuel you're running. But I digress as like I said, we don't even have a MAF sensor.

MAPs aren't the same, they aren't measuring a stream of air and trying to determine the volume based on temperature and velocity using the known opening, they are just measuring the pressure against a diaphragm. People that clean the MAP are thinking it's like a MAF and just trying to do the same thing they did with the MAF because they don't know the difference. They think they are both measuring airflow so must be the same. Look for a can of MAP sensor cleaner. ;) Notice they are using MAF sensor cleaner in the videos.

So basically you don't recommend me going in cleaning the IAT? Do I try cleaning the MAP or just leave it as? For the K&N I have not re-oiled it... It still need more miles on it before it is required.

jbailer · Dec 2, 2017

BoosTang23T said:
So basically you don't recommend me going in cleaning the IAT? Do I try cleaning the MAP or just leave it as? For the K&N I have not re-oiled it... It still need more miles on it before it is required.

No, I wouldn't clean the IAT or the MAP. Cleaning the MAP with that cleaner that will no doubt be alcohol based may even dry out the diaphragm and may cause it to fail as it might lose its natural elasticity. It even bothers me in those videos, they don't even take the o-ring off first. I certainly wouldn't be spraying that stuff on the o-rings either.

BoosTang23T · Dec 2, 2017

jbailer said:
No, I wouldn't clean the IAT or the MAP. Cleaning the MAP with that cleaner that will no doubt be alcohol based may even dry out the diaphragm and may cause it to fail as it might lose its natural elasticity. It even bothers me in those videos, they don't even take the o-ring off first. I certainly wouldn't be spraying that stuff on the o-rings either.

Thanks man... Going to monitor the car after the spark plugs change. Will update everyone on my case if that solved the issue on idle.

jbailer · Dec 2, 2017

There are a lot of things it could be, a downstream O2 sensor could be weak and feeding back incorrect info to the ECU causing improper fueling. Spark would usually result in a rough idle and reduced power rather than a "chocking" condition but that description doesn't tell a lot. In today's computer controlled cars, there are so many things to consider and it's a lot more complex.

jrock · Dec 2, 2017

jbailer said:
Is that relevant? I can't tell you where they are or much less do I care. I'm in the US and have a US based ecoboost that doesn't use one. I heard early on that some other country versions did have MAF sensors and someone on the forum from another country confirmed it but that was years ago. Personally, I don't care and not spending the time to go looking.

Thanks for the help...:clap2:

Grafanton · Dec 2, 2017

From reading other threads, my understanding is that most idle issues are related to fuel quality.
My EB will idle very inconsistently immediately after re-fueling as it works out the OAR.

MakStang · Dec 4, 2017

Sorry for replying late to that, but I was away.

Yes, I would like to confirm that all Mustangs are MAP tuned, just like the American ones. In fact Adam from Tune+ confirmed that our cars (all Mustangs) have 2 MAP sensors. He has tuned my car, as well as other European Mustangs, so he should know. Having a MAP or a MAF influences the tuning strategy.

Also I vent to atmosphere for a while now without any problems at all, so I can confirm the above from personal experience as well.

There was a guy in the forums a while ago who falsely stated that EU spec cars are MAF and everyone just assumed that ever since.

MakStang · Dec 4, 2017

BoosTang23T said:
Thanks man... Going to monitor the car after the spark plugs change. Will update everyone on my case if that solved the issue on idle.

Also, if you are going to get an e-tune drom Adam, let me suggest that you replace the spark plugs with the NGK ones. They are one-step-colder spark plugs and you can find them on Adam's website, along with all information (including benefits).

https://adamtuned.com/collections/ford-ecoboost-mustang-engine/products/ngk-6510-spark-plugs

jbailer · Dec 4, 2017

MakStang said:
Sorry for replying late to that, but I was away.

Yes, I would like to confirm that all Mustangs are MAP tuned, just like the American ones. In fact Adam from Tune+ confirmed that our cars (all Mustangs) have 2 MAP sensors. He has tuned my car, as well as other European Mustangs, so he should know. Having a MAP or a MAF influences the tuning strategy.

Also I vent to atmosphere for a while now without any problems at all, so I can confirm the above from personal experience as well.

There was a guy in the forums a while ago who falsely stated that EU spec cars are MAF and everyone just assumed that ever since.

We have 1 MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) sensor located on the intake manifold which is actually a MAPT (Manifold Absolute Pressure and Temperature) sensor.

The other pressure sensor is located on the outlet of the intercooler and while it is a pressure sensor, it is the Turbocharger Boost Pressure Sensor.

BoosTang23T · Dec 4, 2017

MakStang said:
Also, if you are going to get an e-tune drom Adam, let me suggest that you replace the spark plugs with the NGK ones. They are one-step-colder spark plugs and you can find them on Adam's website, along with all information (including benefits).

https://adamtuned.com/collections/ford-ecoboost-mustang-engine/products/ngk-6510-spark-plugs

Thanks MakStang... I already upgraded my spark plugs using NGK TUNE+ ones and that seemed to resolve my idle issue. I have driven the car for a few days now and have not replicated the idle issue. The car is running way better on idle and even feels super healthier. If I can't replicate the issue for the rest of the week, I think it is safe to say my issue is fixed and the spark plugs was the culprit.

I had posted a video the other day changing them out on another thread. Posting it here for anyone's reference. I did 18lbs though on the final turn. So now I am worried since I see people mentioning 10, 12, and 14lbs.

[ame]

ElAviator72 · Dec 4, 2017

Hope the K&N filter isn't putting oil deposits on the intake valves...:doh: if that happens, about the only option is to media blast the intake valves with walnut shells. Might be worth borescoping your intake valves to see if there's any deposits on them.

BoosTang23T · Dec 4, 2017

ElAviator72 said:
Hope the K&N filter isn't putting oil deposits on the intake valves...:doh: if that happens, about the only option is to media blast the intake valves with walnut shells. Might be worth borescoping your intake valves to see if there's any deposits on them.

Spark plugs fixed my issue. The K&N filter is still oiled from factory. The issue you described, I have heard is from ppl over oiling it. I'll check it though. I plan to change the filter to a real CAI anyways.

dgc333 · Dec 4, 2017

ElAviator72 said:
Hope the K&N filter isn't putting oil deposits on the intake valves...:doh: if that happens, about the only option is to media blast the intake valves with walnut shells. Might be worth borescoping your intake valves to see if there's any deposits on them.

A properly oiled K&N will not deposit oil on the valves. Even an over oiled K&N will only release oil for a very short time, not enough to have any impact on the valves.

If you are concerned about oil on the valves they are constantly exposed to oil vapors drawn from the crankcase via the PCV system. A catch can will reduce this but will not eliminate it.

Where is the MAF or MAP sensor on the EcoBoost?

BoosTang23T

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jbailer

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BoosTang23T

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jbailer

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jrock

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Grafanton

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MakStang

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jbailer

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BoosTang23T

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ElAviator72

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dgc333

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