2nd Set of Rotors/Pads for track days?

Just curious for those of you who do multiple track days a year. Do you guys buy a full second set of race pads and rotors then just swap everything out for race days, just swap pads only, or run street/track pads all the time?
Im curious if people are just throwing a set of track pads on for race days on the old daily driver rotors. If so, are yall bothering having the rotors turned before every track day? I know its different for every track/driver but how many track days do you get out of a set of pads?

You can run compatible pad compunds for street and track, so you dont need to refinish the surface when you change pads. GLOC GS1 street and suitable GLOC R track pads work, and I think Ferodo track pads are compatable with the OEM front PP pads without resurfacing.

Buying a second set of rotors isnt a bad idea. They're consumable, so like tires, if you drive the car long enough you'll need more rotors anyway, so by buying a second track set up front your stock set will last longer.

Me, Ill probably stick with just swapping compatable pads. Swapping rotors isnt very hard but its just that many more bolts and work when swapping pads.

NightmareMoon said:

You can run compatible pad compunds for street and track, so you dont need to refinish the surface when you change pads. GLOC GS1 street and suitable GLOC R track pads work, and I think Ferodo track pads are compatable with the OEM front PP pads without resurfacing.

Buying a second set of rotors isnt a bad idea. They're consumable, so like tires, if you drive the car long enough you'll need more rotors anyway, so by buying a second track set up front your stock set will last longer.

Me, Ill probably stick with just swapping compatable pads. Swapping rotors isnt very hard but its just that many more bolts and work when swapping pads.

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Ok, so you just remove your OEM pads (or whatever daily driver thing you're using) throw in some more race oriented pads (street/track pads) without resurfacing the rotors, run up to the track, then swap the pads again when you get home? No warped rotors issues?

Yeah, but I specifically chose a GLOC street and track pad set that would allow that type of swapping. No issues, jack the car up, swap pads, bleed the brake fluid if needed, adjust the shock settings and/or swaybar if needed, throw the race tires in the car and drive to the track.

38k miles, like 14 track days, a couple hundred plus autox runs and the rotors are still holding up.

How do you tell what pads are compatible? Are Z26 pads compatible with the stock Ferodo pads?

Ive gone for another set of OEM 15” rotors for HPDE, with a set of Powerstop track pads.
I also have a brake cooling project in progress.

After completely blowing my Clutch last time out at VIR, I intend on using my Brakes to their full capacity this time out.

I will keep the original Brembo, Ferrodo setup for DD.

NightmareMoon said:

Yeah, but I specifically chose a GLOC street and track pad set that would allow that type of swapping. No issues, jack the car up, swap pads, bleed the brake fluid if needed, adjust the shock settings and/or swaybar if needed, throw the race tires in the car and drive to the track.

38k miles, like 14 track days, a couple hundred plus autox runs and the rotors are still holding up.

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Which GLOC compound did you use? There are lots.

I run GLOC GS1 (their street pad) and for the track R12 front and R10 rear.

PoppinJ said:

Ok, so you just remove your OEM pads (or whatever daily driver thing you're using) throw in some more race oriented pads (street/track pads) without resurfacing the rotors, run up to the track, then swap the pads again when you get home? No warped rotors issues?

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You could do that with compatible pad compounds as long as the rotors aren't scored or excessively worn . . . and that the pads sweep the same rotor area (not always exactly the situation).

"Warped rotors" is nearly always a misnomer. Disc thickness variation from overheating and non-uniform metallurgical changes in the rotor leave hot spots that subsequently don't wear as fast. You can machine this out, but the hard spots will remain (they're usually deeper than what the machining removes) and the pulsing/shuddering eventually returns.

If you can live with the dust and some occasional noise, Carbotechs and G-locs up to the '12' level (that I know of so far) can be used in street driving down at least as far as the low 30°'s F. Side note - the 12's appear to wear more rapidly, so if you find you're outgrowing the 10's you might consider jumping to the next number above 12.


Norm

I'm lazy and use the same pad and rotor year round.

I'm running Hawk's Street/Race pads and DBA T-3 4000 series rotors with Motul RBF600. On the front, I get a little more than a year out of this setup. The rears look like they'll last nearly 3 years. I ran 8 track days last year, and two more this year before I had to swap pads & rotors.

This can be a little noisy on the street and dust is a substantial issue, but it really doesn't bother me enough to make the effort to swap pads each track day.

I was standing on them at Gingerman on Sunday and had only one minor hint at fade.

If I get any faster, I'm going to have to reconsider this arrangement.