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Steeda install. Rear cradle mount might be stripped...

Berstuck

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UPDATE: Cradle installed. The tap set I purchased was great. It came with three taps (starter, intermediate, and plug) and I used them all. The new bolt went in like butter.

As for the final install, you guys are correct, the steeda inserts FORCE you to be lined up perfectly over the hole(s) which is a difficult thing to do.

The way I did it was... I installed 3 of the 4 bolts about 3/8" gap between the cradle and the body and saved the driver's-rear bolt until last. The hole was off center by about 1/4" to 3/8" or thereabouts. It took a LOT of prying pressure, but I held pressure while my wife ratcheted the bolt in.

Off to get an alignment now.
What tap set?
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aleccolin

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As many instances I've heard of people having issues with the threads in the body galling up after taking the subframe bolts in and out a few times, makes me think it might be good practice to clean them up with a bore brush each time and use some anti-seize, hopefully keeping it from getting to the point of needing to be chased with a tap.

Something like this would work well I think.

81AEcDJMzAL._SL1500_.jpg
 

Bartly

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As many instances I've heard of people having issues with the threads in the body galling up after taking the subframe bolts in and out a few times, makes me think it might be good practice to clean them up with a bore brush each time and use some anti-seize, hopefully keeping it from getting to the point of needing to be chased with a tap.

Something like this would work well I think.

81AEcDJMzAL._SL1500_.jpg
That sure couldn’t hurt. I keep thinking we should stop re-using the factory bolts that are made to cut new threads when they get installed. Wishing I would have measured the bolts when they were out so I can source some that don’t have the thread cutting serrations in them.
 

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Folks, anytime you pull out one of those IRS mounting bolts, you need to get in there with a wire brush (see above) and clean the living christ out of that hole. Those bolts cut their own threads if they get one zilla-millimeter off going in. I always brake clean, wire brush, brake clean, wire brush the bolt itself, brake clean that, then have the entire cradle slightly loose and supported at two points with two jacks on good wheels and put all bolts in by hand before going tight on anything. Three turns by hand and you're likely okay. After that, ratchet them to contact. After that, big battery powered impact for one ugga dugga or two, then torque wrench. I start tightening the fronts first, as those are the ones that like to strip out as that's where the weight is. Do not let the bolt LIFT the subframe much, just to close any final gap.

I do the same for the CB005 if I'm helping install one of them thingies, which has a similar risk since you're more or less aligning at least the front two subframe connections in the process.

Overall, I don't prefer the directions that have you do one side, then then next. Always end up with the 4th bolt being a pain in the royal tookus.
 

Houston Kid

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Folks, anytime you pull out one of those IRS mounting bolts, you need to get in there with a wire brush (see above) and clean the living christ out of that hole. Those bolts cut their own threads if they get one zilla-millimeter off going in. I always brake clean, wire brush, brake clean, wire brush the bolt itself, brake clean that, then have the entire cradle slightly loose and supported at two points with two jacks on good wheels and put all bolts in by hand before going tight on anything. Three turns by hand and you're likely okay. After that, ratchet them to contact. After that, big battery powered impact for one ugga dugga or two, then torque wrench. I start tightening the fronts first, as those are the ones that like to strip out as that's where the weight is. Do not let the bolt LIFT the subframe much, just to close any final gap.

I do the same for the CB005 if I'm helping install one of them thingies, which has a similar risk since you're more or less aligning at least the front two subframe connections in the process.

Overall, I don't prefer the directions that have you do one side, then then next. Always end up with the 4th bolt being a pain in the royal tookus.
Good info there. In the last 3 weeks I've done two different cars. Mine was not that bad only the driver's front was off that required some effort to get it right.

The one I did this past weekend on a friend's car is a different story. I am not 100% confident the driver's front is not fubar. I hand started it after a long battle of getting it lined up. It went in easy most of the way but the last 1/4 or so it got very hard to turn. I managed to bottom it out and torque it, but it may have created some new threads.

Does anyone foresee a problem as long as the bolt is not removed? Should I go ahead and remove the bolt and re-tap it?

FYI his car is getting a super charger and likely going to have 800hp at the wheel.
 
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aleccolin

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If it was really hard to turn, the torque applied went into countering that resistance not applying tension to the bolt, so it isn’t really torqued down at all. I would fix that before moving forward with other mods.
 

xmustangx

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I guess I was lucky I did this and the cb005 kit at the same time and everything fell right into place. Didn't have to jockey the cradle at all.
 

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When installing my factory bolts back into the car I had turned in the bolts by hand a couple of turns and then sent it up with an impact. Sadly on the way up it felt like it got tight and probably stripped out the nut. Outside of taking the bolt out and running a tap through it and replacing the bolt, what would be a proper fix if the threads aren't saveable? I already have new bolts and a good set of taps (from post #22) ready, but I want to plan for the worst. Is a Helicoil the next step and has anyone done it before for this bolt hole?
 

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Houston Kid

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When installing my factory bolts back into the car I had turned in the bolts by hand a couple of turns and then sent it up with an impact. Sadly on the way up it felt like it got tight and probably stripped out the nut. Outside of taking the bolt out and running a tap through it and replacing the bolt, what would be a proper fix if the threads aren't saveable? I already have new bolts and a good set of taps (from post #22) ready, but I want to plan for the worst. Is a Helicoil the next step and has anyone done it before for this bolt hole?
Good info there. In the last 3 weeks I've done two different cars. Mine was not that bad only the driver's front was off that required some effort to get it right.

The one I did this past weekend on a friend's car is a different story. I am not 100% confident the driver's front is not fubar. I hand started it after a long battle of getting it lined up. It went in easy most of the way but the last 1/4 or so it got very hard to turn. I managed to bottom it out and torque it, but it may have created some new threads.

Does anyone foresee a problem as long as the bolt is not removed? Should I go ahead and remove the bolt and re-tap it?

FYI his car is getting a super charger and likely going to have 800hp at the wheel.
Per my post above, I am sure my solution was not the best solution, but the car held up fine and no issues. Of course he only had the car for 8 months after the install and then it got totaled. Not his fault. But, the rear end was still good to go.
 

Cory S

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As many instances I've heard of people having issues with the threads in the body galling up after taking the subframe bolts in and out a few times, makes me think it might be good practice to clean them up with a bore brush each time and use some anti-seize, hopefully keeping it from getting to the point of needing to be chased with a tap.

Something like this would work well I think.

81AEcDJMzAL._SL1500_.jpg
I use anti-seize on every bolt with metal on metal threading. A little film of it goes a long way in preventing galling. My bolts always spin in and out smoothly and never cross thread.
 

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So I'm installing Steeda's subframe alignment kit (inserts and bushings). Everything goes great but I'm about 3/8" shy of snugging up and the front mounting bolt on the driver's side. It simply won't tighten any farther.

Before anyone says it, I know the inserts only go in one way.

So, I've tried every possible combination of jacking, prying, and tightening/loosening the 4 cradle bolts and nothing works. Tonight I thought I'd start all over again and perhaps install the troublesome bolt first but before doing that I thought I'd just check to see if the bolt would just go in without the bushing so I removed the tires and rear shocks from the mounts, loosened the passenger side front and rear bolts, removed the driver front and rear bolts, and attempted to just install the front bolt without the insert and once again, the bolt goes in but stops about 3/8" from the cradle with the cradle snug to the body and there's nothing to bind the bolt other than the threads. The bolt came out with metal shavings on the threads and the first 2 threads are worn down. Looking into the hole, there's a bunch of metal dust and shavings.

I'm wondering if the cradle has been installed so poorly (previously) that now that the inserts are forcing a more straight/aligned bolt installation, it's just fighting back? I've successfully lowered the cradle two times previously, once to install a set of springs and once to install a differential bushing kit. Haven't had a problem till now. Oh, and it's only been driven about 50 miles since lowering and reinstalling the cradle twice.

I'm at a loss of what to do next.
29473056_10211975173911284_2279606316722814976_o.jpg
You may be better off outfitting the subframe with M14 x 2.0 plated grade 10.9 threaded rod and class 10 nuts, hardened washers. 7-1/4" long would probably do. Makes it easier to lower the cradle with the nuts in place. You'll never strip another bolt hole
 

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I know this is a old thread and I hope the OP is long sorted, but some comments for future based on this photo :

1671822110930.jpeg


Two things jump out :
  • Look how misaligned that subframe was from the factory.
  • Look how misaligned it still is - I’m not sure how a bolt in a relatively tight fitting sleeve is supposed to screw onto that thread squarely…
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