What would cause that? I haven’t done anything to the cooking system.Sounds like you have air trapped and you need to bleed the system. Your iat2 should only be 10-15* over ambient (iat1) at operating temp when cruising depending on heat exchanger and I/c brick efficiency. Add water wetter to the hx system after you bleed it.
I figured it might be a fresh install. If not it might just be a little tiny hx and those are normal iat swings. In that case, I would consider upgrading hx and/or adding a larger reservoir.What would cause that? I haven’t done anything to the cooking system.
That might just be normal iat operation with the roush system in that case. I’ve always upgraded heat exchangers on any pd blower car I’ve owned, which helps those iat deltas. Ive also always ditched the cats and any airflow restriction which helps make your air pump (engine) be as efficient as possible, which helps too.I didn't install mine until last fall, but it has never been as low as 10-15* above ambient. Closer to +40 is about where mine runs at IAT2, and if it was heat soaked on a 90+ degree day I could see it hitting 160. Mine circulates very well, and after running the pump with the cap off I can't believe air is trapped anywhere.
Maybe something wrong with mine too but I wasn't under the impression the Roush heat exchanger is that great, why some go with the larger-core VMP with dual fans. Keep us posted what you find TexasGT.
I figured it might be a fresh install. If not it might just be a little tiny hx and those are normal iat swings. In that case, I would consider upgrading hx and/or adding a larger reservoir.
That might just be normal iat operation with the roush system in that case. I’ve always upgraded heat exchangers on any pd blower car I’ve owned, which helps those iat deltas. Ive also always ditched the cats and any airflow restriction which helps make your air pump (engine) be as efficient as possible, which helps too.
There’s usually a bleeder screw/s on the blower case to bleed air out of the intercooler brick/s inside the lid, but it sounds like this is just a case of a subpar hx.
The latter. Drove for 10ish minutes. Sat and idled in parking lot for 10 minutes. Then drove around for 25 minutes. During the drive, IAT’s didn’t come down as much as I expected them too.It depends...
If you hopped in your car and it was cold (ECT/IAT/EOT all the same) and then you go out and start driving then yes that would be abnormal. However if you've been driving, stop some where for 30 minutes to an hour then start driving again, this is your typical heat soak issue...
Don’t recall exactly, but 145ish? I’m going to do a few things and try to get them down. If I fail, VMP triple pass HE.So you are running the JLT "cold air" setup? Those work great in cooler temps but not in Texas heat. I put the lid on my Roush box during the summer. Drops IAT's 10-20 degrees depending on the situation. I also run Royal Purple Ice in my rad & intercooler. Drops cylinder head temps 10-15* and the same on the IAT. The air under the hood is over 200*, cooling that down is a tall task. Any idea what your IAT's were prior to the JLT?