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Roush IAT2 temps. 160ish?

TexasGT

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Roush on a 75 pulley, JLT intake and E85. Outside temps at 90ish. During street driving, hovering around 156-160. Even when steady at 45 for a while, dropping just a few degrees.

Haven’t reached out to tuner yet.

Any concern here?
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09jsw

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Check to see if the coolant pump is running. Take the cap off the overflow and you should see it churning the coolant.
 
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TexasGT

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How do I tell that with the IAT relocation harness in place?
 
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TexasGT

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Check to see if the coolant pump is running. Take the cap off the overflow and you should see it churning the coolant.
Can see with the cap on. Churning well!

Also for reference, cylinder head temp at 203ish and ECT at 192ish.
 
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Your cylinder head temps are only about 5-10 degrees higher than what mine are, but you're pushing about 120rwhp more than I am. My IAT2 temps are usually around 125-135 if I remember correctly. Possibly a faulty IAT2 harness?
 

BlownOne

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Sounds like you have air trapped and you need to bleed the system. Your iat2 should only be 10-15* over ambient (iat1) at operating temp when cruising depending on heat exchanger and I/c brick efficiency. Add water wetter to the hx system after you bleed it.
 
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TexasGT

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Sounds like you have air trapped and you need to bleed the system. Your iat2 should only be 10-15* over ambient (iat1) at operating temp when cruising depending on heat exchanger and I/c brick efficiency. Add water wetter to the hx system after you bleed it.
What would cause that? I haven’t done anything to the cooking system.
 

sy1462

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I didn't install mine until last fall, but it has never been as low as 10-15* above ambient. Closer to +40 is about where mine runs at IAT2, and if it was heat soaked on a 90+ degree day I could see it hitting 160. Mine circulates very well, and after running the pump with the cap off I can't believe air is trapped anywhere.

Maybe something wrong with mine too but I wasn't under the impression the Roush heat exchanger is that great, why some go with the larger-core VMP with dual fans. Keep us posted what you find TexasGT.
 

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What would cause that? I haven’t done anything to the cooking system.
I figured it might be a fresh install. If not it might just be a little tiny hx and those are normal iat swings. In that case, I would consider upgrading hx and/or adding a larger reservoir.

I didn't install mine until last fall, but it has never been as low as 10-15* above ambient. Closer to +40 is about where mine runs at IAT2, and if it was heat soaked on a 90+ degree day I could see it hitting 160. Mine circulates very well, and after running the pump with the cap off I can't believe air is trapped anywhere.

Maybe something wrong with mine too but I wasn't under the impression the Roush heat exchanger is that great, why some go with the larger-core VMP with dual fans. Keep us posted what you find TexasGT.
That might just be normal iat operation with the roush system in that case. I’ve always upgraded heat exchangers on any pd blower car I’ve owned, which helps those iat deltas. Ive also always ditched the cats and any airflow restriction which helps make your air pump (engine) be as efficient as possible, which helps too.

There’s usually a bleeder screw/s on the blower case to bleed air out of the intercooler brick/s inside the lid, but it sounds like this is just a case of a subpar hx.
 

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TexasGT

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I figured it might be a fresh install. If not it might just be a little tiny hx and those are normal iat swings. In that case, I would consider upgrading hx and/or adding a larger reservoir.


That might just be normal iat operation with the roush system in that case. I’ve always upgraded heat exchangers on any pd blower car I’ve owned, which helps those iat deltas. Ive also always ditched the cats and any airflow restriction which helps make your air pump (engine) be as efficient as possible, which helps too.

There’s usually a bleeder screw/s on the blower case to bleed air out of the intercooler brick/s inside the lid, but it sounds like this is just a case of a subpar hx.

Will check for air tonight. Also, I will put the foam piece in for the JLT intake, as it will draw more hot air without it in place.
 

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It depends...

If you hopped in your car and it was cold (ECT/IAT/EOT all the same) and then you go out and start driving then yes that would be abnormal. However if you've been driving, stop some where for 30 minutes to an hour then start driving again, this is your typical heat soak issue...
 
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TexasGT

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It depends...

If you hopped in your car and it was cold (ECT/IAT/EOT all the same) and then you go out and start driving then yes that would be abnormal. However if you've been driving, stop some where for 30 minutes to an hour then start driving again, this is your typical heat soak issue...
The latter. Drove for 10ish minutes. Sat and idled in parking lot for 10 minutes. Then drove around for 25 minutes. During the drive, IAT’s didn’t come down as much as I expected them too.

I may also pull the rubber weatherstrip stuff to get more air out.
 

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So you are running the JLT "cold air" setup? Those work great in cooler temps but not in Texas heat. I put the lid on my Roush box during the summer. Drops IAT's 10-20 degrees depending on the situation. I also run Royal Purple Ice in my rad & intercooler. Drops cylinder head temps 10-15* and the same on the IAT. The air under the hood is over 200*, cooling that down is a tall task. Any idea what your IAT's were prior to the JLT?
 
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TexasGT

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So you are running the JLT "cold air" setup? Those work great in cooler temps but not in Texas heat. I put the lid on my Roush box during the summer. Drops IAT's 10-20 degrees depending on the situation. I also run Royal Purple Ice in my rad & intercooler. Drops cylinder head temps 10-15* and the same on the IAT. The air under the hood is over 200*, cooling that down is a tall task. Any idea what your IAT's were prior to the JLT?
Don’t recall exactly, but 145ish? I’m going to do a few things and try to get them down. If I fail, VMP triple pass HE.
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