ecoboost or 3.7 engine

Fuse said:

Do you guys know if that 3.55 from an auto or manul trans? Looks too clean to be cast iron which is making me think it is from an auto.

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I messaged the seller and he/she said manual. I was also quoted $85 for shipping.

Ok you all I've got dibs

Hold off on bidding if you can. Someone posted one in our FB group last week and then it ended up going up quite a bit. I'm not bidding on anything for awhile.

Trying to see if I can convince a local guy to do $350 for his 3.73s but I doubt I'll pull that off :lol:

TURTL3 said:

Thank you! I'll keep my eye on it and see how the bids go.

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I paid $350+ shipping for mine, just for your reference.

TURTL3 said:

I messaged the seller and he/she said manual. I was also quoted $85 for shipping.

Ok you all I've got dibs

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So this will not work with an auto transmission, or are they interchangeable?

^ can someone please answer that regarding the 3.73s as well? I know it's got the Torsen instead of Tracloc, but I figure it should bolt right up whether it's manual or auto.

edit » ideal situation for me would be to get the whole thing like the Shelby listing

While yall are on the topic of gears, any tune or tweaks to the speedometer necessary after swapping them?

From what I read you definitely need to make adjustments for autos.

Here's a really great video explaining gear swaps to 3.73:

As far as I know, all the pumpkins (loaded rear ends) bolt right up. You will need a tuner to change the gear ratio. This is for manuals.

For automatics, I believe you need a tune and Pinion Flange Kit part# M-4851-M8A. The flange kit is for autos only.

The video explains swapping the actual gears in detail.

The following post shows what autos need to bolt up the pumpkin. It is from Fordguys550's topic of when he changed to 3.73. There is good info there. I'd suggest checking out the thread.

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1995999&postcount=30

For the autos you need to go into the BCM and change it so the automatic xmsn knows what to do with the shift points. A tuner won't do it you would need forscan. With the manual you don't have to do anything. Going 3.55 with the manual makes 1st really "tall" if thats the correct term. 6th is much more usable on the hiway. I can't imagine how quick you would hit redline with 3.73 in 1st.

[MENTION=22062]tommyd[/MENTION], did you have any reliability issues with the '16 EB during your lease? Wouldn't you have better gauge of EB reliability during your 3 years or so of leasing it than folks who never had one? Any reason for not buying out your lease?

Finally, what's your ultimate goal? Leaving it stock or modding it? If modding, what's your target power or handling goals? Are premium or PP trims important to you?

D24112 said:

Here you go....
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2015-17-Fo...947586?hash=item2856bd70c2:g:Et0AAOSw7ZRZkfqT

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Ended up at $355. Doesn't seem to be as many as last year. Looks like a lot of 3.31's

The EB vs V6 argument is one thing. The V6 vs GT is another.

Turbo cars can be fast - no one is arguing that. And regardless of the whole "ecoboom" argument - small cubic inch, turbocharged engines are simply different animals than larger cubic inch naturally aspirated engines. Can you go 11's fairly easily in a EB? Sure. But how does it behave as a daily driver? A lot of that is personal preference.

I got my new '17 V6 / 6 speed for less than $22K OTD including TTL. The cheapest new '17 GT 6 speed I could find was 350 miles away (my dealer was willing to trade with them to get it) was a base - non PP car and it was $29K before TTL.

I wasn't looking new at all - the deal on my car just happened at the right time. But $7K (a bit more actually) is a big difference. That's enough to install ProCharger and be right on par with stock GT power numbers actually - on a pump gas tune anyway.

My issue was if I was going to spend $29K - that price range would have opened up a lot of other used cars with V8 power.

And to be honest, I do all my own wrenching so major swaps / upgrades don't phase me. I know everyone doesn't have the time, ability, tools, facilities and I get that. But I've already got a buddy sending me links to wrecked '15 and up GT cars being auctioned for cheaper than I would have thought. After adding up all the needed parts (not including labor since I'd be doing that either way) it would be VERY doable to get a Coyote swap done on my car for less than the cost of the Procharger or at least right at it. Most everything is plug and play.

But again a lot of that is personal preference. I ENJOY wrenching. So swapping a 5.0 into a V6 car would be part of the attraction for me in the first place - I know everyone isn't that way. Again - personal preference.

To be honest - it's even easier (and cheaper in the long run) to buy a wrecked, running GT and part it out and keep the needed stuff for the swap. I know a guy doing a Coyote swap into a '67 (might be '68) Mustang. After parting out everything he won't be using, he's into it for less than $5K.

Personally if I was doing a Mustang to Mustang swap, I'd drop the front subframe as a unit and install it that way.

If you've never owned a V8 car - I wholeheartedly agree you should at least drive one at some point...at 45 years old I've owned quite a few. My Mustang is my daily - all year long. I'm looking to break 12's in the 1/4 in a NA V6 with just bolt on's and tune. Plenty fast for me for a true daily. Of course I will likely be getting my car dyno tuned - not for peak HP numbers, but tuned for low to mid range torque gains - where the car lives everyday when I drive it. Where I get to enjoy the effort and cash invested everyday without having to risk losing my license to enjoy it.

It's not just the Mustang community - (F-Body is another one) where it seems many GT owners assume that someone bought a V6 or an EB because they couldn't afford a GT. That's not always the case. For young drivers and insurance - especially with tickets - I can see that being a huge issue as well. For someone starting out - I get that too. Priorities are different from person to person - as they should be.

My kid is grown. My next major 'automotive' investment will be hunting down a relatively rust free example of my first car ('67 Chevelle) and building it to SUIT ME and it will be driven A TON. Of course it will take a while, because again - the biggest part of the attraction for ME is building it myself.

The entire cost vs result argument changes DRASTICALLY when you have to factor in paying for labor. This holds true for even valuable, classic and muscle cars that are considered collector items.

The automotive hobby is a PERSONAL thing - as it should be. Life would be boring if everyone wanted / did the same thing and odds are the aftermarket automotive industry we have now because of this would be worse off - at least in my opinion.

Buy what you like / can afford. Make it your own. Enjoy.

sorry I took this long. My car now has 22000 trouble free miles.I dont need leather so if I buy A 18 eco I'd get the sync 3 pkg. The buyout is 18500.which brings my total cost to 34000 ( down payment- monthly payment - buyout).The reliability factor with the turbo is the issue. Is this a car you would buy vs a 16 v6 wih 2300 miles for the same price with 18 in wheels/pwr seats?

I would still go with the 3.7L, ... 2300 miles w / 051 package is SWEET !!!

The Sync 3 thing, not important to me, maybe to you ?