Stereo Information (Wiring, Upgrades, etc...)

Niz55 said:

Metra 82-5605

What are you doing to your Shelby?

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Gunna change out the speakers in the rear deck they really really suck lol got some Rockford fosgates to replace them with and wanted to use the connector instead of splicing the wires

Niz55 said:

Metra 82-5605

What are you doing to your Shelby?

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Looking at the part number u gave me I meant for the connection not the adaptor plate but I will prolly get adapter plate to lol

Honestly changing out the rear speakers do not do a damn thing.

Niz55 said:

Honestly changing out the rear speakers do not do a damn thing.

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I had some kicker speakers that don’t fit in the rear but I wanted to see if adding speakers in general made a difference and there’s was defiantly a little more bass coming out the back and these were cheap kicker speakers lol

Jossyfilms said:

I had some kicker speakers that don’t fit in the rear but I wanted to see if adding speakers in general made a difference and there’s was defiantly a little more bass coming out the back and these were cheap kicker speakers lol

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I have Focal coaxials in the rear, and I agree with your point! I have much more bass, and the vocals are really clear as well.

Can someone please get me the part number to the pins that connects to the molex connector.

Thank you

Niz55 said:

Can someone please get me the part number to the pins that connects to the molex connector.

Thank you

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Which connector are you talking about? They all have a name like C5380 or something. The name is something you would find in the wiring diagrams.

The pins that go in the molex conmectors.

Should be Part #34803-3212 from this thread;
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=77679&highlight=molex

Very nice thank you for your help.

grumblin said:

For solder-phobics like me, i'm going to try something a little different for attaching the wires to the molex connectors. I'm going to try two separate methods:

1) I ordered a simple 2x8 IDC female/female ribbon cable as a wire break-out for the line-outs. I'm going to see if I can get it in the body on the headers.

2) I also ordered one of these: https://www.adafruit.com/products/266 - it's looks easier to use as a breakout for the RCA's but the single connectors could cause it to come apart easier.

Neither will work for the speaker connectors as the wires are much too small - but dang, trying to fit AWG16 wire on those pins is a bear.

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Did the adafruit ribbon-cable work for this?

To back track a bit, can anyone verify the discrepancy between amplifier part #s?

I have a line on an amp with the part# FR3T-18T806-CK

But there are many online with the part# FR3T-18T806-BR for the same price.

I have replaced the entire wiring harness in the car to upgrade from base to premium and need the amplifier to drive the speakers.

Sorry if this is considered thread jacking but I never saw this questions answered a few pages back.

UPDATE on Speaker Choices

djcwardog said:

After confirming that my DSP amp was not putting out a signal to the sub (but it WAS sending out the 6v turn-on signal), I spent an hour yesterday installing my Audiocontrol LC2. I tapped into both rear deck speakers. I got to the leads from underneath, in the trunk. Then I sent those four wires to the input plug on the LC2. I ignored the remote in and out connections on the LC2 as I am still having the DSP amp send the 6v back to the subwoofer amp. However, I did cut the signal leads from the front for the subwoofer signal. Now I have the amp out leads from the LC2 going to the OEM subwoofer amp. I had to convert an RCA output to two wires to connect those to the sub amp harness - where I cut out the leads coming from the front.

Result - I do hear bass coming out of the OEM sub now. It is readily adjusted for sound level using the LC2. Now I can set the bass audio control slider to flat on the screen up front and just turn up the LC2 to get my low bass. Because the LC2 offers such a good capability in tuning the sound, I recommend this even for those with a factory 401A (2015-2017) or Shaker Pro option (2018) in their cars.

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Ok, using Kicker speakers I had replaced all nine of my 400A speakers: 3 left front, 3 right front, the center channel, left rear, and the right rear. After months now of driving and listening I pulled some of the Kickers out in favor of putting the stock drivers back in. I have now settled on a hybrid mix of OEM and Kicker to give me the best sound without trying any other better speakers. Yes, the Kicker tweeters were just too shrill, basically unlistenable. I tried both the 3/4” tweeters from the kit as well as the 1” separate tweeters from the higher-end Kicker Seprate set. Here’s what I recommend now:

Replace the lower door woofers (left and right) with a Kicker Separate woofer 6.5” from their separate kit. This is a far better speaker for the mid to lower bass than the Kicker coax 6.5” that came with a kit last summer. I put Dynamat in the door directly behind and reaching as far away from the cutout as I could get - made a huge difference in sound quality (tighter bass) and road noise (less). One thing though - you are applying it to your outer door skin and you want to avoid it blocking the very bottom where the door allows water to run and drain out. Keep the Dynamat out (and off of) that very bottom “Vee” of metal where door side meets door bottom. 3/8” up from bottom by eye is plenty.

Retain the door midrange and the A-pillar tweeter. These actually sound fairly nice. Same for the center channel - keep what Ford gave you. I did use Dynamat in the upper doors and center mounting location and that is still a good idea.

Replace the rear deck speakers with a pair of Kicker coax 6.5’s. These came with my kit and work well enough for the rear deck - which had a single cone driver and no treble at all. Line the opening with Dynamat and get some down on that vibration-prone metal rear deck, even away from the speaker cutouts.

Definitely do the subwoofer with LC2i, I’m glad I did.

If I felt like doing more I would jump up to Focal or similar high-quality stuff, maybe even do a simple door (only) separate system and get a pair of A-pillar trim pieces that have no tweeter opening in them. However, I’m good for now!

Anyone use this harness adapter? Debating on going sync 3 swap but want add an amp. I would just use it for the head unit side to attach RCA's to go to the amp, then rerun wires to the speakers.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D9W3CH...olid=2C01T57QWEMGS&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it