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Passing emissions with my Procharger

Tommy V

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Well shucks..



No I don’t. Hmm, I don’t have a laptop, but do have a little windows based tablet that might let me install some software.
That might get u what u neec,02 sensor data is usually listed in most diagnostic tools.
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ven377

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I have the same issue with mine. I got sent in to state ref for no cats so I returned everything to stock but wont pass since the heater o2 are not coming on. Already talked to lund and he says he left them on. I have driven my car for 3k miles and no luck...
 

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Are you 100% sure those monitors weren't turned off in the tune?
There is no such thing as "turning monitors off"

They are 100% separate from the actual ECU tune.
Just have to make sure that everything that allows them to run is on, and conditions are met. (correct temperature outside, drive times, cycles, etc. )
 
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Bartly

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There is no such thing as "turning monitors off"

They are 100% separate from the actual ECU tune.
Just have to make sure that everything that allows them to run is on, and conditions are met. (correct temperature outside, drive times, cycles, etc. )

You always make things sound easy. Here I am wide awake at 3:30am wondering how sleepy I’m going to be at work again today. You’d think with all the problems I’ve had since installing the Procharger I’d be used to sleepless nights, not lol. Just hoping work keeps me distracted enough so I can forget my daily driver is about to be undrivable if I can’t get it registered. Boy was I gullible to believe you guys a year ago when I bought the kit after being told it should be plug and play and that I should be fine when it comes time to register my car. I thought my ace in the hole was buying your complete kit with the PC tune, thinking everything would work out just fine, but we know how that turned out.

Watching and waiting for those monitors to turn green is like watching paint dry that didn’t get enough catalyst mixed in. I have been driving on the latest tuner’s latest revision that I’m told has everything emissions turned on. I’ve done the “drive cycle”outlined in the FSM three times now along with putting about 200 miles on the car and I still have more failing monitors than the last tune revision which had 1000 miles on it. It's about the opposite kind of joy I was expecting from installing the Procharger.
Procharger fail monitors.jpg
 

ProChargerTECH

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You always make things sound easy. Here I am wide awake at 3:30am wondering how sleepy I’m going to be at work again today. You’d think with all the problems I’ve had since installing the Procharger I’d be used to sleepless nights, not lol. Just hoping work keeps me distracted enough so I can forget my daily driver is about to be undrivable if I can’t get it registered. Boy was I gullible to believe you guys a year ago when I bought the kit after being told it should be plug and play and that I should be fine when it comes time to register my car. I thought my ace in the hole was buying your complete kit with the PC tune, thinking everything would work out just fine, but we know how that turned out.

Watching and waiting for those monitors to turn green is like watching paint dry that didn’t get enough catalyst mixed in. I have been driving on the latest tuner’s latest revision that I’m told has everything emissions turned on. I’ve done the “drive cycle”outlined in the FSM three times now along with putting about 200 miles on the car and I still have more failing monitors than the last tune revision which had 1000 miles on it. It's about the opposite kind of joy I was expecting from installing the Procharger.

Doesn't matter if you installed a supercharger or a cold air intake... or NOTHING.


Every time you flash a tune, you reset all those monitors.
Then you have to play the "did I drive it exactly right" game.
So its best to NEVER reflash the tune.

Plus your weather outside needs to be exactly correct as well.
You can drive 2000 miles, but if the temp is wrong, no point.


Now here is the kicker. I have NO idea what those conditions are.
I don't know if many people outside of the OEM could tell you.



When we do a car, we did all of our testings here in KC.
Then once the final tune is loaded in the car, we drive it to Cali.
(yes drive the entire way)

Usually, that's more than enough miles to set all monitors before our test.




NOTE: One time I had a stock C5 Corvette... it took 5,000 miles to set all monitors, and the car was 1000% stock!
 

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Tommy V

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Hey Bartley I would not flash anymore tunes,drive the car two weeks both city and hwy driving,don't change anything to the car.Your not getting a cel so i don't think their is any issues with the car
If u do this I think it's a good chance your monitor's will set.Make sure your your trips are more then 20 miles round trip lol.
 
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Bartly

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Doesn't matter if you installed a supercharger or a cold air intake... or NOTHING.


Every time you flash a tune, you reset all those monitors.
Then you have to play the "did I drive it exactly right" game.
So its best to NEVER reflash the tune.

Plus your weather outside needs to be exactly correct as well.
You can drive 2000 miles, but if the temp is wrong, no point.


Now here is the kicker. I have NO idea what those conditions are.
I don't know if many people outside of the OEM could tell you.



When we do a car, we did all of our testings here in KC.
Then once the final tune is loaded in the car, we drive it to Cali.
(yes drive the entire way)

Usually, that's more than enough miles to set all monitors before our test.




NOTE: One time I had a stock C5 Corvette... it took 5,000 miles to set all monitors, and the car was 1000% stock!
Thanks for sharing your experience. Yeah, I flashed a new tune on because I asked my tuner if my current tune had the emissions stuff turned on and his reply was simply sending a new revision with a note saying this revision has all the emissions stuff on it. Heck, for all I know the last revision had it as well and now I’m back to square one on the monitors setting.

I’ve read and followed the ford drive cycle instructions from the factory service manual 3 times and I still have the majority of the monitors red, I will keep driving it and hope I get there before my plates go out of date.

So one oddity is the Fuel monitor is still red, several postings I’ve read say this should flag as ready right off the bat, so hope there is nothing squirmy with that one.
I did see reference in the drive cycle instructions that the outside air temp must be above 40f, kind of hard to do that in the winter. But did see in the ford instultuctions to do something they call a “Bypass” when it’s colder than 40f, that you let the car sit overnight prior to driving, I think this means they want the coolant temp to match the intake air temp, hoping that truly is a way to have the monitors run when it’s winter.

I really don’t know if adding the supercharger and driving on an email tune lessens the likelihood of having the monitors trigger to “ready”. I was thinking of pulling the supercharger and going back to stock, but sounds like that would just put me back to starting the test timeline all I’ve.

Anyway, thanks for chiming in, good to hear I’m just experiencing normal time it takes monitor readiness testing.

So does anyone know about the FUEL monitor and if that one should really have set immediately. I’ve filled the tank to full as well as done 3 drive cycles with the tank between 1/2-3/4 full since installing the new tune revision last week.
 
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Bartly

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Hey Bartley I would not flash anymore tunes,drive the car two weeks both city and hwy driving,don't change anything to the car.Your not getting a cel so i don't think their is any issues with the car
If u do this I think it's a good chance your monitor's will set.Make sure your your trips are more then 20 miles round trip lol.
Thanks, I will take that advice. For reference, when I started this thread before flashing the latest tune last Friday I had put over 1000 miles on the car. All of those were plenty of cold starts, most of it was my commute to work which is 25-30 minutes of city driving with long stretches of 40-55 mph. That readied all the monitors but O2 and HO2S. Have you ever looked to see if your car has the monitors all shown as green (not sure if you have a Ngauge to see this).

Anyway, thanks again, it’s helpful to be told it should work out.
 
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Tommy V

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I'm in the process of tuning for e85 so flashed my car like 6 times in the past couple days lol.When I'm finished tuning I will check them aand let u know how fast they set,I have a snap on modis for diagnostic work so I can check them.Another thing if u did have access to ids is u could force the monitor's to set and as long as nothings wrong they will stay green
 

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I was thinking of pulling the supercharger and going back to stock, but sounds like that would just put me back to starting the test timeline all I’ve.
You would be in the same boat.

Again doesn't matter if the car is supercharged or not.
Everytime you flash it, everything starts over.

And sadly if the temps aren't correct to run the test...
Well, you could drive 24 hours a day 7 days a week and not set the light.



Another thing if u did have access to ids is u could force the monitor's to set and as long as nothings wrong they will stay green
That's a good last resort, but even that I have seen not work 100%.

The only thing I know that makes them all go "green" is a good working tune with everything turned on, good fuel trims, and loads of driving. :)
 

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keltymd

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You would be in the same boat.

Again doesn't matter if the car is supercharged or not.
Everytime you flash it, everything starts over.

And sadly if the temps aren't correct to run the test...
Well, you could drive 24 hours a day 7 days a week and not set the light.





That's a good last resort, but even that I have seen not work 100%.

The only thing I know that makes them all go "green" is a good working tune with everything turned on, good fuel trims, and loads of driving. :)

I have to say no to this to some degree. If that was the case every soccer mom in her minivan that had their battery die in the winter and went to Autozone for a replacement would have to drive thousands of miles and wait for warm weather to go thru emissions. I have not seen that and I have replaced more than my share of batteries and reset ECUs that would reset the drive cycles on cars and never had to drive more than a couple of days to get them to set.

Just my experience and $0.02
 
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Bartly

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Update, good sign, the monitors are starting to clear. In all the reading I've been doing internet and FSM, somewhere I read that the cold start is considered 6 or 8 hours (cant recall which) and the coolant temp is within 11 degrees of the ambient air temp. So I've been leaving my hood open and letting the car sit for at least 8 hours to cool down before attempting a drive cycle. This morning took the car to the highway (14deg F outside) went for the EVAP test (cruise 48-65mph, I went 61mph) for 10 minutes each way out of town. Used cruise control this time to hold it steady. Well getting off the highway I then did a bunch of city driving including cruising at 5 different speeds between 25 and 50ish. EVAP didn't pass, but CAT was green, Yippee. Parked the car for work with hood open most of the morning. With it being cold outside I closed it at lunchtime just because. After work (9 hours) I went for my afternoon "cold start" (coolant was not quite at ambient, but close). Outside temp was 46F, so golden for a EVAP drive cycle. Went to the highway, rush hour, my luck. 15 minutes later I was in less traffic and was able to cruise 50mph for a while, then did 61 mph and looked at the gauge after about 5 minutes and the EVAP light was green. So awesome.

I read in the FSM "The fuel system monitor and misfire detection monitor must also have completed successfully before the HO2S monitor is enabled".

So now I have to figure what the Fuel Monitor is looking for, figure this one set ready with the last tune revision so it's inevitable. Gotta wait for that one to pass before I can try for the O2 ones.

So, if anyone read through all that, let me bounce my logic off you? Might be common sense, but I don't know without asking.

So, the way I understand the way the emissions machine checks the car is it looks at two "reports" from the car.
1. Are there any Diagnostic Trouble codes? No=Pass, Yes=Fail.
2. Have all the systems validated as functional (good old Monitors and Drive cycle stuff I'm going through). Yes=Pass, No=Fail.
Sound logical so far?

Next, here is where I get hopeful. My GT is all factory with exception of the SC and tune (counting on the tune having all emission on, can I assume this since it's running some monitors so far?). The car has thrown no DTC codes, so if all the sensors are truly still functional, I would know if I am failing #1 from above. Now the readiness monitors are slowly clearing, I can only imagine since the car is the car that it will run the tests just as though it always would and I should pass unless I have a new hardware problem, that a DTC probably would have told me about anyway.

So is this how it works, no DTCs so I know the car is operating within Factory specs, and now the car just has to validate the sensors are still installed and operational? Please let me know if this is the logic or am I off base? Just trying to convince myself that it will all end up good.


I'm in the process of tuning for e85 so flashed my car like 6 times in the past couple days lol.When I'm finished tuning I will check them aand let u know how fast they set,I have a snap on modis for diagnostic work so I can check them.Another thing if u did have access to ids is u could force the monitor's to set and as long as nothings wrong they will stay green
Thanks, not super important, but am curious on the order your monitors set, no biggie if you have bigger fish to fry. Sounds like you are in hog heaven going for some more speed with your e85. I did look up the IDS software, I'm not there yet, but just saw myself opening up that can of worms. Lol.

You would be in the same boat.

Again doesn't matter if the car is supercharged or not.
Everytime you flash it, everything starts over.

And sadly if the temps aren't correct to run the test...
Well, you could drive 24 hours a day 7 days a week and not set the light.

That's a good last resort, but even that I have seen not work 100%.

The only thing I know that makes them all go "green" is a good working tune with everything turned on, good fuel trims, and loads of driving. :)
Thanks, yep, I'll keep chugging along, starting to get hopeful seeing some of them trigger to "ready". Am wondering if the tune was bad, would I know it from a DTC being reported? In other words can a bad tune allow none of the sensors to report a DTC, but somehow cause the readiness monitors to either not run their test and/or fail in readiness. Sorry, I hope the wording of my question makes sense.

Sorry, can't help but ask one more. Any clue what that Fuel monitor is looking for? Could it be as simple as fuel tank level sensors logging "full" to "empty"? I'm driving my tank down to empty now and will be filling to full to see if that helps hopefully tomorrow.

Sorry to babble. Hopefully this helps someone else understand this stuff besides me. Thanks.
monitors better 14dec2017.jpg
 

Tommy V

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Yes as long as u don't get a cel i would not clear anything or change tunes,also on the emissions yes,as long as no cel and all monitor's ready u pass.The evap may be giving u a hard time because it works off very very low pressure and the cold weather could be throwing it off a little.Keep doing what your doing and run your fuel below a quarter tank then fill up.The monitor's won't set it u get a code so u having no codes yet is a good thing.
 

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I have to say no to this to some degree. If that was the case every soccer mom in her minivan that had their battery die in the winter and went to Autozone for a replacement would have to drive thousands of miles and wait for warm weather to go thru emissions. I have not seen that and I have replaced more than my share of batteries and reset ECUs that would reset the drive cycles on cars and never had to drive more than a couple of days to get them to set.

Just my experience and $0.02
Replacing a battery is not related to what we are talking about.

We are talking about reflashing an ECU's main memory, all adaptations being reset, all monitors being reset, etc.
 

keltymd

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Replacing a battery is not related to what we are talking about.

We are talking about reflashing an ECU's main memory, all adaptations being reset, all monitors being reset, etc.
Disconnect your battery for a second and see what happens. Your readiness resets. Same thing.
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