Passing emissions with my Procharger

ven377 said:

Stock headers and exhaust.

Lund tunned.

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there ya go Talk to Lund. They had issues with my buddies PC tune. redid it and he completed in about 20 miles.

I already messaged him when it first failed.
his reply was.

"I think it just needs more drive time. Everything has passed except the O2 Heater. And I have my emissions tweaks to help it set them quicker. Its worked on other vehicles no problems. Rear O2s are enabled."

ven377 said:

I already messaged him when it first failed.
his reply was.

"I think it just needs more drive time. Everything has passed except the O2 Heater. And I have my emissions tweaks to help it set them quicker. Its worked on other vehicles no problems. Rear O2s are enabled."

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told my friend the same thing tried two tunes and no luck. they out of the blue they sent him another and it worked.

keltymd said:

told my friend the same thing tried two tunes and no luck. they out of the blue they sent him another and it worked.

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Sweet thanks for the info. Ill hit him up again.

Thank you for the quick response!

Crossing fingers that ProchargerTECH sees something turned off in my tune.

I spent 6 months trying various defoulers, fuel pressures and tunes to no avail. VMP verified that all of my sensors were turned on but for some reason I also couldn't get the o2s or htr readiness tests to complete. Last weekend I went to drive my car after not driving it for a few days and my yellow top was dead which was really odd. I got it warranty swapped, put it in the car and then jumped in the car to drive ~22 miles away (probably 19 of that highway) to buy an optima charger. I drove back home another ~22 miles and for sh*ts and giggles I plugged my scanner in. I was blown away when it fired up and gave me a green checkmark. I navigated to the i/m readiness section and sure enough, everything was green. No idea how or any concrete answers but I drove about ~3 miles from 30-55 mph, then ~85-90mph on the highway for 19 miles, surface roads again from 30-55mph, turned the car off, bought the charger, and reversed the trip. This was actually the first time in 6 months that I wasn't minding the drive cycle to a T and just driving however, which pissed me off and was freaking awesome all at the same time.

stingerbtry said:

I spent 6 months trying various defoulers, fuel pressures and tunes to no avail. VMP verified that all of my sensors were turned on but for some reason I also couldn't get the o2s or htr readiness tests to complete. Last weekend I went to drive my car after not driving it for a few days and my yellow top was dead which was really odd. I got it warranty swapped, put it in the car and then jumped in the car to drive ~22 miles away (probably 19 of that highway) to buy an optima charger. I drove back home another ~22 miles and for sh*ts and giggles I plugged my scanner in. I was blown away when it fired up and gave me a green checkmark. I navigated to the i/m readiness section and sure enough, everything was green. No idea how or any concrete answers but I drove about ~3 miles from 30-55 mph, then ~85-90mph on the highway for 19 miles, surface roads again from 30-55mph, turned the car off, bought the charger, and reversed the trip. This was actually the first time in 6 months that I wasn't minding the drive cycle to a T and just driving however, which pissed me off and was freaking awesome all at the same time.

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That’s awesome. Dead battery resets all the monitors to “not ready” on my Jeep, would think the mustang is the same. Wonder if your dead battery reset the KAM (I think that’s what it’s called) and maybe helped to make the monitors run better or something?

Bartly said:

That’s awesome. Dead battery resets all the monitors to “not ready” on my Jeep, would think the mustang is the same. Wonder if your dead battery reset the KAM (I think that’s what it’s called) and maybe helped to make the monitors run better or something?

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That's the thing though, I reset the pcm manually via a few different handhelds probably 20 times and unhooked the battery probably 20 times for at least an hour each time and also 3-4 times did the trick where you use a wire to discharge the vehicles keep alive power. Every single time i would get all but o2s and htr to ready pretty quickly. Strange thing on the battery issue too. So I bought an Optima yellow top back in last April I believe. From the time I swapped it in to replace the stock battery I had issues with the radio capacitor connector that turns the pump off and on it would randomly get stuck on to where I had to disconnect it or it would literally drain the battery before stopping. All normal runs even I'd turn the car off and the radio etc would keep running indefinitely. I had to quickly power the car back on and then off again for it to do whatever it does and turn off my pump. Once I had the battery warranty exchanged for a new one and put it in, all of the strange shite stopped and that's when I drove it and all I/M monitors passed, and that was obviously from scratch. I have no clue what was going on and all I can think of is the battery was defective and doing weird stuff to the system.

I've had to replace my battery before it was two years old. My alternator was constantly working over time, where as when the car was new watching the battery voltage made me think I had a bad alternator because it would go between 12.5 and 14. There were long periods of time it would stay at 12.5. When bad it was always at 14. Once replace the voltage behavior returned to normal.
In the tune there's normal output, High fuel demand and efficiency modes for the alternator. I can see it not going ready if the battery is not allowing the alternator to go into efficiency mode.

markmurfie said:

I've had to replace my battery before it was two years old. My alternator was constantly working over time, where as when the car was new watching the battery voltage made me think I had a bad alternator because it would go between 12.5 and 14. There were long periods of time it would stay at 12.5. When bad it was always at 14. Once replace the voltage behavior returned to normal.
In the tune there's normal output, High fuel demand and efficiency modes for the alternator. I can see it not going ready if the battery is not allowing the alternator to go into efficiency mode.

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That's actually a good point. The fact that in under a year, when it finally went bad, the voltage dropped down to like 10.2 overnight and my charger at the time couldn't recover an AGM battery that was that low. There was definitely something wrong with the battery. The new one has been perfect now since day one thankfully and all is right with the world again.

ProCharger,
I haven't been able to set my Cat/O2/HO2 to set, and I'm still on the stock canned tune. I'm going to wait until how it works out with Bartly.

OP could get the battery load tested. And get a smog test. That's easier than pulling S/C parts off the car and driving it around. Compare the numbers to those below. Although I just googled those numbers. I don't know if they are really ideal.

http://www.techtalk.ie/technical_ar...lyser-to-help-diagnose-nct-emission-failures/
How to use a 4 gas analyser to help diagnose NCT emission failures

"THE IDEAL 4 GAS VALUES ARE: CO <0.2%; CO2 >13.5%; O2 <0.2%; HC <15PPM; LAMBDA between 0.99 & 1.01 @ 2,500 rpm

Well, good news and bad news. The tune had everything set the way it should and still no pass. So I bought an X4 and a new tune written and I am good to go. Just happy to not be sweating what I was going to have to do to keep the car on the road. Thanks for any suggestions along the way.

Oh yeah, thanks to Beefcake for some quick delivery on the X4, that was awesome.

Glad you passed but it does show there is more to it than most tuners and procharger know.

Yea that don't make sense,so using supposedly the same tune,it would not pass with hp tuners but did with sct,hmmm.Glad u got your problem solved though man because that is a tough situation