Weight mods...

mkonrad said:

I think most of those numbers are optimistic, and too much weight is coming off the rear. My few data points follow.

My diet is coming in under budget.

* I fit a carbon fiber trunk to mine, and it was 9#, have seen estimates as low as 7#, compared to stock at 20#. That's 10#, not 20#.
* Unless you get a lucky wheel config at 21-22#, or carbon fiber takeoffs, mine were a somewhat typical 23# which is 8# under stock. Tires may save a bit if you pick PSC2 over PSS, but you're closer to 40# and again on the low side of estimates.
* My Sparco reclining seats saved 25# over tech sofas.
* FP Borla is lighter than stock exhaust due to resonators being deleted. Closer to 10# on the high side, but the claim included headers.

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Good to know. Have you ever weighed your car by chance after your mods?

Lightweighing. Name of the game.

I’ve done P51 wheels and borla exhaust so far.

All tallied up to 35 lbs. 10 being from the catback.

Anyone know the alternator amperage/size? I am seriously looking at the lightweight earthx lithium battery mentioned earlier in this thread.

AP racing sells a front brake kit that will remove like 30 lbs from the front end, and will improve braking consistency.

Darkane said:

Lightweighing. Name of the game.

I’ve done P51 wheels and borla exhaust so far.

All tallied up to 35 lbs. 10 being from the catback.

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Do a resonator delete and you're the exact weight of an SS 1LE. :cheers:

EDIT: wait...nevermind. Borla catback. :doh:

Good suggestions from Darkane. Reducing rotational mass will have the most dramatic effects on the way the car performs, therefore aftermarket wheels and brakes are typically the ticket.

Cars that have upgraded BBK's from the factory certainly make the decision to spend dollars on new brakes a bit more difficult, however there are superior kits out there. Lighter front seats, a rear seat delete, aftermarket exhaust and a lighter battery are certainly good options as well.

Beyond that the weight savings per dollar spent becomes a bit more irrational. I find that unless the car is used as a serious or competitive track warrior, ripping into the car only makes the car less desirable to drive day-to-day. I've made this mistake a few times in the past, only to return the car to a more "stock" trim.

Our 19x11" EC-7 Mustang wheels weigh in at about 24 lbs. each, and the set is currently available for about $1,600. Not only does this shed a good amount of rotational mass, it also allows enthusiasts to run a true rotatable 11" square fitment while improving brake caliper to wheel barrel clearance.

ApexRaceParts said:

Lighter front seats, a rear seat delete, aftermarket exhaust and a lighter battery are certainly good options as well.

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Any lithium battery suggestions for our cars?

Lithium Pros. The battery is expensive, like 1,000 dollars but they work fantastic and are reliable. They have built in voltage and amperage control so any alternator will work. I have had one in my car for a year with no problems. Car can sit for a month and starts right up.

Theres also Antigravity Batteries. I've been looking into that route lately.

DAUM!!!! The stock lightweight (LOL) motorcraft battery weighs in at 32lbs and the C680 weighs 4lbs:eyebulge:...

The stock hood being so big and heavy, wouldn't switching to a CF hood a good mod with the saving beings upfront and up high? Speedkore makes a CF hood at 26 lbs, how heavy is the OEM hood?

bli8 said:

The stock hood being so big and heavy, wouldn't switching to a CF hood a good mod with the saving beings upfront and up high? Speedkore makes a CF hood at 26 lbs, how heavy is the OEM hood?

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The hood (and front fenders) are Aluminium, there will be weight savings but not as much as everyone thinks.

Another issue with aftermarket hoods are fit & finish as well as shipping. The fit of some offerings is downright laughable. The other issue is that FedEx/UPS tend to damage packages that big very easily. There are a ton of stories out there, check FB.

I've thought about this route as well being a CF addict. However the cost and shipping worries has me thinking about other options like battery and rear seat delete (Already did exhaust and flowforged wheels).

Money no object the most significant weight savings is carbon rotors. This is assuming you already have light weight wheels.
I know they aren’t the same car, the ACR carbon rotors are 13lbs front, 11lbs rear, that’s per wheel folks.

I would definitely do full exhaust, lose weight, gain power, gain sound.

RB performance bake offer carbon ceramic front rotors from Z28 with custom made hat to directly fit on GT350. Save 16 lb per rotor and 32 lb total. Cost around $5k.
Or you can pick AP racing front bake system including calipers and rotors for similar cost and weight saving. I highly suspect the AP kit would stop better than the carbon ceramic rotor upgrade consider they are original from FP350S race car. More benefit would be the AP kit clears 18 inch wheels so more weight saving from wheels and tires combination. Moreover, there are much more tire selection for 18 compare to 19.

zzj said:

RB performance bake offer carbon ceramic front rotors from Z28 with custom made hat to directly fit on GT350. Save 16 lb per rotor and 32 lb total. Cost around $5k.
Or you can pick AP racing front bake system including calipers and rotors for similar cost and weight saving. I highly suspect the AP kit would stop better than the carbon ceramic rotor upgrade consider they are original from FP350S race car. More benefit would be the AP kit clears 18 inch wheels so more weight saving from wheels and tires combination. Moreover, there are much more tire selection for 18 compare to 19.

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Agree with your assessment on the AP BBK's. While carbon ceramics are attractive, the running costs and wheel diameter limitations are not. AP brakes are some of the best in the business, keep the cost of consumables in check, and more often than not accommodate 18" wheels.

- Ryan