Sponsored
Looking for How-To on removing front turn signal housing
KevDog
Active Member
- Joined
- Apr 22, 2016
- Threads
- 2
- Messages
- 35
- Reaction score
- 30
- Location
- British Columbia
- Vehicle(s)
- 2016 Shelby GT350, 2004 F150 FX4
Have a look at this video, it is for adding CJPony fog lights to the GT350, but the video details bumper removal etc.. might help...
[ame]
[ame]
OP
OP
Stoked
Well-Known Member
- Thread starter
- #19
Yes, pretty much identical but smoked from DD. Consequently I appear to be having a similar problem as others with the DRLs working intermettently. The turn signals always do though. As much as I like the fogs on the new Shelby kit, I much prefer the sequencing front signal, and will stick with them.
I definitely say follow the CJ vid and take off the bumper. They mention that black trim piece and thats what I was referring to.
Wow...I really busted my ass on those for no good reason. Lmao
Angrey
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jun 21, 2020
- Threads
- 95
- Messages
- 2,393
- Reaction score
- 2,444
- Location
- Coral Gables
- Vehicle(s)
- 2016 GT350
If you're digging up this thread after all this time, chances are you, you're running into the same frustrations as me and others who've contributed. After wrestling this bullshit for hours, and finding this thread (and the video above) here are my thoughts:
1) Don't try to do this without taking the entire bumper off. I was swearing and sweating and grunting and I can't even imagine trying to do it laying on the ground or reaching up from a lifted position. Honestly, just bite the bullet and spend the 30 minutes to take off the entire front.
2) The video gives you 95% of the task, but I wish Bill wouldn't have skipped the HARDEST ****ING STEP IN THE ENTIRE PROCESS with his video cuts/edits.
Once you get to the step where you HAVE to remove the front trim piece, the tabs are wedge tabs with a ledge. There's also a counter tab on the light housing/mini grille assembly that keeps them locked into final position.
You're going to have to CAREFULLY unseat at least 3 of the wedges on the bottom row just under the light. This will allow you to remove the trim piece and at the same time, give enough leeway to flex the entire thing enough to pull the housing out the front or back (I did it each way on different sides).
You must be careful, because even though the light housing/mini grille assembly is secured additionally with screws, the little trim piece isn't. It's solely held on via the plastic wedge tabs that are an absolute MOTHERF****ER. Like all dumbass things Ford and dumbass things OEM design, they never considered removal and reinstall. You're going to have to use a tool with a blunt edge and increasingly nudge the tabs until they clear up and over and release. You do NOT want to break off the tabs for the trim piece. (although if you had to replace something, that trim piece is probably much cheaper and easier to get than the housing/mini grille).
The problem isn't getting them to release, the problem is they're plastic and getting them to release WITHOUT breaking them.
Reassembly was a little tricky but the tabs eventually wedged back into place in a little coaxing.
Aside from Diode Dynamics not indicating this is WAY more complicated and completely different on the GT350, the other thing they leave out is the additional red wire/lead with a blade connector that isn't used if you didn't get the DRL version. I just zip tied it up with a loop and the excess wiring from the DD unit (the length is more because it re-uses the factory harness connector and adds a length of wire in between the light and adapter.) Just try to wire manage them all up so it's a similar length and they're out of the way.
Final thoughts. **** Ford and whatever asshole designed this. He was either stupid, lazy or a sadist. I hope he chokes on a chicken bone. A simple tab and a fastener, even a shitty plastic push pin would have been so much easier.
This would have probably been easier with a helper.
I recommend having a large moving blanket or soft/plush surface to work with, you'll be flipping and turning the entire front to see get the right angle/leverage, etc. Helps if you're not stressed about the paint getting scratched up.
Don't EVER break or damage your mini grilles. Getting the entire assembly off would have been that much more of a MFer.
1) Don't try to do this without taking the entire bumper off. I was swearing and sweating and grunting and I can't even imagine trying to do it laying on the ground or reaching up from a lifted position. Honestly, just bite the bullet and spend the 30 minutes to take off the entire front.
2) The video gives you 95% of the task, but I wish Bill wouldn't have skipped the HARDEST ****ING STEP IN THE ENTIRE PROCESS with his video cuts/edits.
Once you get to the step where you HAVE to remove the front trim piece, the tabs are wedge tabs with a ledge. There's also a counter tab on the light housing/mini grille assembly that keeps them locked into final position.
You're going to have to CAREFULLY unseat at least 3 of the wedges on the bottom row just under the light. This will allow you to remove the trim piece and at the same time, give enough leeway to flex the entire thing enough to pull the housing out the front or back (I did it each way on different sides).
You must be careful, because even though the light housing/mini grille assembly is secured additionally with screws, the little trim piece isn't. It's solely held on via the plastic wedge tabs that are an absolute MOTHERF****ER. Like all dumbass things Ford and dumbass things OEM design, they never considered removal and reinstall. You're going to have to use a tool with a blunt edge and increasingly nudge the tabs until they clear up and over and release. You do NOT want to break off the tabs for the trim piece. (although if you had to replace something, that trim piece is probably much cheaper and easier to get than the housing/mini grille).
The problem isn't getting them to release, the problem is they're plastic and getting them to release WITHOUT breaking them.
Reassembly was a little tricky but the tabs eventually wedged back into place in a little coaxing.
Aside from Diode Dynamics not indicating this is WAY more complicated and completely different on the GT350, the other thing they leave out is the additional red wire/lead with a blade connector that isn't used if you didn't get the DRL version. I just zip tied it up with a loop and the excess wiring from the DD unit (the length is more because it re-uses the factory harness connector and adds a length of wire in between the light and adapter.) Just try to wire manage them all up so it's a similar length and they're out of the way.
Final thoughts. **** Ford and whatever asshole designed this. He was either stupid, lazy or a sadist. I hope he chokes on a chicken bone. A simple tab and a fastener, even a shitty plastic push pin would have been so much easier.
This would have probably been easier with a helper.
I recommend having a large moving blanket or soft/plush surface to work with, you'll be flipping and turning the entire front to see get the right angle/leverage, etc. Helps if you're not stressed about the paint getting scratched up.
Don't EVER break or damage your mini grilles. Getting the entire assembly off would have been that much more of a MFer.
Angrey
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jun 21, 2020
- Threads
- 95
- Messages
- 2,393
- Reaction score
- 2,444
- Location
- Coral Gables
- Vehicle(s)
- 2016 GT350
Oh, someone else provided a jewel of advice.....test the damned lights before you go through this hell and get everything back together. It's not unthinkable there's an issue with the light(s) or wiring and then you're headed back through hell like Mad Max Fury Road.
Sponsored