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Engine Motor Mounts Recommendations?

Jared_J

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Hi Guys,
My planned next mod would be engine motor mounts to drop a bit center of gravity, get some clearance for strut tower brace, and tie down the engine movement a bit. Any product recommendations from you guys?

On AM I see only two options: The BMR Adjustable one and the GMS one with fixed 0.520 inches drop. The BMR one is likely out of my range because I don't like the solution of using aluminium spacers to adjust height. I think the metal-on-metal contact contributes to the complained major NVH increment in some reviews. It's my daily car all year around so NVH is still very inside my consideration. How legit is the GMS one?

I'm planning on engine motor mounts also due to some interior penal vibrations occur at a high RPM band under WOT. This issue doesn't occur with the stock air box, either with paper filter or oiled one. But occurs with aftermarket cone filter, either roush or JLT one. I tried to ask dealers to fix it under warranty. One refused because my car apparently is not stock. The other one told me it's going to be 12 hours work, but was kind enough to put extra padding under the penal and gauge for free (though didn't help). I'm betting on a set of better engine mounts would solve the issue. Any other suggestions from you experienced & talented guys?

Thanks!
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zackmd1

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Hi Guys,
My planned next mod would be engine motor mounts to drop a bit center of gravity, get some clearance for strut tower brace, and tie down the engine movement a bit. Any product recommendations from you guys?

On AM I see only two options: The BMR Adjustable one and the GMS one with fixed 0.520 inches drop. The BMR one is likely out of my range because I don't like the solution of using aluminium spacers to adjust height. I think the metal-on-metal contact contributes to the complained major NVH increment in some reviews. It's my daily car all year around so NVH is still very inside my consideration. How legit is the GMS one?

I'm planning on engine motor mounts also due to some interior penal vibrations occur at a high RPM band under WOT. This issue doesn't occur with the stock air box, either with paper filter or oiled one. But occurs with aftermarket cone filter, either roush or JLT one. I tried to ask dealers to fix it under warranty. One refused because my car apparently is not stock. The other one told me it's going to be 12 hours work, but was kind enough to put extra padding under the penal and gauge for free (though didn't help). I'm betting on a set of better engine mounts would solve the issue. Any other suggestions from you experienced & talented guys?

Thanks!
The BMR mounts actually isolate those metal spacers with polyurethane bushings so there is actually no metal to metal contact through the body of the vehicle. If you are worried about panel vibrations then no aftermarket mount will solve that issue.

Pretty much any adjustable engine mount lowering kit follows the same design path so I view them all equally. I will say from experience that the BMR mounts are stiff and cause a decent amount of NVH. From what I have seen of GMS they use the same polyurethane (hardness rating) and general design and as such will likely be very similar.

I modified my BMR mounts with a softer polyurethane bushing and eliminated a lot of NVH. It did not completely solve the issue but coupled with an tune (to increase idle RPM) it got pretty close to stock.

I actually have my modified BMR mounts for sale if you are interested: https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=97186
 
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Jared_J

Jared_J

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The BMR mounts actually isolate those metal spacers with polyurethane bushings so there is actually no metal to metal contact through the body of the vehicle. If you are worried about panel vibrations then no aftermarket mount will solve that issue.

Pretty much any adjustable engine mount lowering kit follows the same design path so I view them all equally. I will say from experience that the BMR mounts are stiff and cause a decent amount of NVH. From what I have seen of GMS they use the same polyurethane (hardness rating) and general design and as such will likely be very similar.

I modified my BMR mounts with a softer polyurethane bushing and eliminated a lot of NVH. It did not completely solve the issue but coupled with an tune (to increase idle RPM) it got pretty close to stock.

I actually have my modified BMR mounts for sale if you are interested: https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=97186
Thanks for pointing it out. I didn't notice there are polyurethane bushings in between in AM video, so I sort of jumped to conclusion/guess.

My penal vibration is a high frequency one and only come from engine with high load under high RPM. So I'm hoping that with a different vibration damping the resonance frequency changes and witchcraft things happen, as those NVH work have always been, and get rid of the penal vibrations. I do notice decrements on vibration after my headers are installed, also less vibration with JLT intake compared to the Roush one.

Is that NVH increment only occur during idling? How about highway cruising?

Since I see two good reviews on the GMS one, I'm right now slightly biased towards the GMS one. I do appreciate your offering and your research on this mod.
 
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Jared_J

Jared_J

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The BMR mounts actually isolate those metal spacers with polyurethane bushings so there is actually no metal to metal contact through the body of the vehicle. If you are worried about panel vibrations then no aftermarket mount will solve that issue.

Pretty much any adjustable engine mount lowering kit follows the same design path so I view them all equally. I will say from experience that the BMR mounts are stiff and cause a decent amount of NVH. From what I have seen of GMS they use the same polyurethane (hardness rating) and general design and as such will likely be very similar.

I modified my BMR mounts with a softer polyurethane bushing and eliminated a lot of NVH. It did not completely solve the issue but coupled with an tune (to increase idle RPM) it got pretty close to stock.

I actually have my modified BMR mounts for sale if you are interested: https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=97186
Just noticed your writing about metal-to-metal contact: The design I'm concerned with is placing engine support (iron) onto the aluminum spacer, and then to the polyurethane bushings. I don't know much about damping and NVH, but the aluminum spacer design doesn't feel right to me.

I guess if there is room for spacer, why not allow higher amount of bushing with same hardness for more damping, just like the spring & shocks do?
 

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NVH is what makes me hesitate getting the mounts. I get the mounts and i can remove the spacers off the strut brace but then deal with NVH. Or leave it stock as the spacers are doing just fine since i installed them.
 

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zackmd1

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NVH is what makes me hesitate getting the mounts. I get the mounts and i can remove the spacers off the strut brace but then deal with NVH. Or leave it stock as the spacers are doing just fine since i installed them.
There will be an increase in NVH no matter what with any of these aftermarket mounts. The stock mounts are oil filled mounts that absorb as much vibration as possible at the expense of movement. Aftermarket offerings aim to control movement and thus increase NVH.

With that said, the BMR mounts with the softer polyurethane bushings IMO is about as close as you will get to stock and still drop the engine and control movement. The softer urethane absorbed almost all NVH increase in the upper RPM ranges, it just left some in the low RPM high load conditions. I got MPT to up my idle RPM from 650 to 800 and it solved the issue in most cases. High load conditions still had some NVH but it was very livable. I drove with this setup daily for about 5k miles. To be completely honest, the car feels numb now that I have reinstalled the stock mounts. :headbonk:
 

zackmd1

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Just noticed your writing about metal-to-metal contact: The design I'm concerned with is placing engine support (iron) onto the aluminum spacer, and then to the polyurethane bushings. I don't know much about damping and NVH, but the aluminum spacer design doesn't feel right to me.

I guess if there is room for spacer, why not allow higher amount of bushing with same hardness for more damping, just like the spring & shocks do?
As long as the mount is isolated from the body it should not translate any additional NVH through the vehicle. That said I do agree that a thicker bushing/thinner metal spacer would be better. BMR’s design accommodates that adjustable drop where as GMS is fixed and as such drove the requirement for these aluminum spacers.
 

zackmd1

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NVH is what makes me hesitate getting the mounts. I get the mounts and i can remove the spacers off the strut brace but then deal with NVH. Or leave it stock as the spacers are doing just fine since i installed them.
With the mounts I did notice a handling difference that was quite nice and call me crazy, but a bit more power to the wheels as well. (Less deflection = less drivetrain loss)
 

draconis123

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I have the BMR mounts. Got them installed when I did my headers. While there is a noticeable increase in vibration which I enjoy, there isn't much increase in NH.

Once they are broken in it becomes a lot less harsh. This is my daily driver and with commuting and some 4 hour + trips I haven't been bothered by them.
 
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Jared_J

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With the mounts I did notice a handling difference that was quite nice and call me crazy, but a bit more power to the wheels as well. (Less deflection = less drivetrain loss)
Yeah I see other people say they notice the increase on power delivery as well. It makes sense though. Less low frequency vibration equals to higher transmission efficiency.
 

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Jared_J

Jared_J

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By the way, how hard is it to install in the garage using jack stands? I have two extra jacks to support the engine but no local car buddy to help me. How is the work compared to the header install?
(I have trust issues on the seller's claimed installation time ever after I installed my headers.)
 

zackmd1

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By the way, how hard is it to install in the garage using jack stands? I have two extra jacks to support the engine but no local car buddy to help me. How is the work compared to the header install?
(I have trust issues on the seller's claimed installation time ever after I installed my headers.)
Honestly not difficult at all. I did the install with 2 jack stands and a floor jack to raise the engine from the oil pan (obviously with padding protecting it and only lifting from corners and not the center). Took me about an hour total. It seems challenging but when it comes down to it it’s very easy compared to something like headers.
 
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Jared_J

Jared_J

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Honestly not difficult at all. I did the install with 2 jack stands and a floor jack to raise the engine from the oil pan (obviously with padding protecting it and only lifting from corners and not the center). Took me about an hour total. It seems challenging but when it comes down to it it’s very easy compared to something like headers.
Glad to know it's 1 hour work and thanks for the tips!
After I've installed my overdue vertical link, rear toe link, and lockout kit this weekend, I would be on the way for the motor mounts!
 

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Crazy question here. But, if you lower the engine with the mounts. Do you need to lower the transmission too? There should be some type of support on the transmission. I have the auto. Want to keep the drive line at the correct angle.
 
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Jared_J

Jared_J

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Crazy question here. But, if you lower the engine with the mounts. Do you need to lower the transmission too? There should be some type of support on the transmission. I have the auto. Want to keep the drive line at the correct angle.
The engine and the transmission are hard mounted together. When you lower the engine you are lowering the transmission as well. The angle tilt is handled at the drive shaft.
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