Alignment Sheet

THE_AHJ · May 11, 2017

Alignment specs from my 16 PP GT. Car is on SP089 front and SP082 rears, CB005 as well. Other than camber up front the only issue I'm having is rear left height from top of rim to fender is at 5-3/8" and right rear is 4-7/8" ≈ .5" difference, bushings were clocked before alignment was completed. I'm real anal when it comes to detail, I also have minor poke difference from what I can tell but it's not as bad as before. Talked to BMR and will try a couple of things to get the ride height to drop.

Any thoughts or suggestions, I'm all ears!

BmacIL · May 11, 2017

Nothing wrong with the alignment other than your drop being off. Personally I'd have them get your front toe closer to zero, though.

THE_AHJ · May 11, 2017

I went to a recommended shop, I have an appointment set up with Firestone locally on Saturday to have them double check all the work and see if they can make adjustments. Thoughts on the drop and I'll see if Firestone can take a look at the Total Toe for me. Thanks for the quick reply.

MedStang · May 11, 2017

BmacIL said:
Nothing wrong with the alignment other than your drop being off. Personally I'd have them get your front toe closer to zero, though.

So I've read a bunch on here about alignment specs, but I can't seem to find one solid answer, I suppose because everyone has different preferences for how their car handles and drives.

Should I just go with Ford Performance alignment specs? Just put on BMR SP080 and Cradle Lockout. Car will likely never see a track. I just enjoy spirited driving on back roads sometimes. Also have MPSS on all 4 corners, so I'm concerned about replacing expensive tires. I'm also moving to WV where the roads are s***. I'm not experienced enough with cars to say that I had any problems with how the car handled from factory, just primarily looking for a better stance, enjoyable ride, less body roll, and maybe just a tighter feel all around.

Don't mean to hijack the thread.

BmacIL · May 11, 2017

MedStang said:
So I've read a bunch on here about alignment specs, but I can't seem to find one solid answer, I suppose because everyone has different preferences for how their car handles and drives.

Should I just go with Ford Performance alignment specs? Just put on BMR SP080 and Cradle Lockout. Car will likely never see a track. I just enjoy spirited driving on back roads sometimes. Also have MPSS on all 4 corners, so I'm concerned about replacing expensive tires. I'm also moving to WV where the roads are s***. I'm not experienced enough with cars to say that I had any problems with how the car handled from factory, just primarily looking for a better stance, enjoyable ride, less body roll, and maybe just a tighter feel all around.

Don't mean to hijack the thread.

For no track use, but fun street settings I would go with the following:

Front:
-1.5 camber L and R
0.0 toe L and R
Caster will kind of end up where it will be, but around 7-7.5 deg and they should be close together

Rear:
-1.25 camber L and R (-1.1 to -1.3 would be good, as even as possible)
0.10-0.15 toe L and R, for 0.20-0.30 even both sides

This happens to be pretty much what [MENTION=9985]BMR Tech[/MENTION] recommends.

Jon|3.7 · May 11, 2017

any thoughts on my alignment? (lowered on progressives) cant drive more than 30 mph on a rainy day cause car will start swerving and on normal days i still feel it kinda pulling where i feel i have to adjust it (wheels are 20x10's) if not good what specs should i go with for a daily

BmacIL · May 11, 2017

Jon|3.7 said:
any thoughts on my alignment? (lowered on progressives) cant drive more than 30 mph on a rainy day cause car will start swerving and on normal days i still feel it kinda pulling where i feel i have to adjust it (wheels are 20x10's) if not good what specs should i go with for a daily

The discrepancy between your L and R camber and caster could be contributing to that.

I would go with the same specs as I listed above. Keep in mind that wide front tires and wide offset will cause tramlining (road profile following). Your problem as you describe it is different though. Otherwise it sounds like something is broken/loose.

Jon|3.7 · May 11, 2017

BmacIL said:
The discrepancy between your L and R camber and caster could be contributing to that.

I would go with the same specs as I listed above. Keep in mind that wide front tires and wide offset will cause tramlining (road profile following). Your problem as you describe it is different though. Otherwise it sounds like something is broken/loose.

ive had the wheels since 15k im at 36k now after installing shocks/struts and swaybars ive been having problems im getting creaking in the rear but i belive its the stock shock mounts, and now the steering play any thoughts on what might be broken to have a look at?

thanks for the help youve always been helpful

BmacIL · May 11, 2017

Jon|3.7 said:
ive had the wheels since 15k im at 36k now after installing shocks/struts and swaybars ive been having problems im getting creaking in the rear but i belive its the stock shock mounts, and now the steering play any thoughts on what might be broken to have a look at?

thanks for the help youve always been helpful

How did you install the swaybars? Did you reuse stock endlinks? Did you clock your bushings?

THE_AHJ · May 11, 2017

:threadjacked:

If you've got a suggestion, PM me, thanks in advance.

Albertcado · Feb 14, 2022

BmacIL said:
For no track use, but fun street settings I would go with the following:

Front:
-1.5 camber L and R
0.0 toe L and R
Caster will kind of end up where it will be, but around 7-7.5 deg and they should be close together

Rear:
-1.25 camber L and R (-1.1 to -1.3 would be good, as even as possible)
0.10-0.15 toe L and R, for 0.20-0.30 even both sides

This happens to be pretty much what [MENTION=9985]BMR Tech[/MENTION] recommends.

Is caster and camber variance pretty normal then for stock/factory suspension? I'm on stock suspension and one side is 7.0 caster and the other is 6.8. Hoping that variance is pretty normal and nothing to stress about...?

Also my driver side front camber has never gone past -1.0 and my passenger side has always stayed around -1.2 to -1.3. Obviously there's not much adjustment since I'm stock and it would be great if both sides camber could match up. I'm guessing the variance in camber and caster is pretty normal and fine?

Alignment Sheet

THE_AHJ

AuthorityHvngJurisdiction

BmacIL

Enginerd

THE_AHJ

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MedStang

Well-Known Member

BmacIL

Enginerd

Jon|3.7

Well-Known Member

BmacIL

Enginerd

Jon|3.7

Well-Known Member

BmacIL

Enginerd

THE_AHJ

AuthorityHvngJurisdiction

Albertcado

Well-Known Member