Show me your amp ground wires please

Gunna be installing a amp this weekend. Have a pretty good idea where to run the positive wire through (alot of you have run it through the "nipple" on the preexisting passengers side fire wall grommet. However i dont exactly know where to pick up the ground. I read alot of members saying they run it to a seat belt bolt, but i heard its a super big bolt and my concern would be finding a ring terminal big enough. Any pictures or replies are greatly appreciated.

brandonc said:

Gunna be installing a amp this weekend. Have a pretty good idea where to run the positive wire through (alot of you have run it through the "nipple" on the preexisting passengers side fire wall grommet. However i dont exactly know where to pick up the ground. I read alot of members saying they run it to a seat belt bolt, but i heard its a super big bolt and my concern would be finding a ring terminal big enough. Any pictures or replies are greatly appreciated.

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while i dont have a pic... my sub amp is in where the spare tire would go.... my ground is at the same place the spare tire holder would screw in to... i just shined it up with sandpaper... used a star washer..... perfect ground

Yes... I also forgot about the spare tire holder. That is where I planned to go, however I ended up going with the zenclosures single sub box with the amp rack. And i doubt my ground wire would reach down in there (it’s only 3 foot and technically I could just get a longer one but I heard it’s optimal to keep the ground as short as possible)

HappySquirrel said:

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=92759

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I love the way you grounded yours. Pretty Ingenious actually. My only concern is my box. This is it https://www.zenclosures.com/2015-Mustang-Subwoofer-Box-p/mustang15t1rfamprack.htm I don’t think the wire would run long enough to run up and over, much less around and over my box and to the back where I plan on mounting the amp. I do not have the box yet, but by the looks of the pictures it seems like it nearly seals off the entire trunk so to run the wire I would probably have to drill a hole or some other modification which would kind of stink considering it’s a brand new made to order box :/

Inside your trunk, passenger side, the spot where the factory sub should be...
Remove or fold away the liner. Behind it you will find the BCM-B module. It’s held in place with two nuts on studs. Size is M10 iirc.
Maybe you could use one of these? Or how about the the studs holding the passenger tail light assembly in place?



EDIT:

Sorry, I just saw the type of sub you’re installing. I assumed the sub would be where the oem one goes. Your 3ft ground wire might be to short for the spots I suggested.

buzz-dee said:

Inside your trunk, passenger side, the spot where the factory sub should be...
Remove or fold away the liner. Behind it you will find the BCM-B module. It’s held in place with two nuts on studs. Size is M10 iirc.
Maybe you could use one of these? Or how about the the studs holding the passenger tail light assembly in place?

EDIT:

Sorry, I just saw the type of sub you’re installing. I assumed the sub would be where the oem one goes. Your 3ft ground wire might be to short for the spots I suggested.

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You’re right. The 3ft ground would probably be a little short to reach where I’m planning on putting the amp BUT thanks for the idea. I’m thinking one of those locations should serve well for a a seperate ground I will need for my LC2i line out converter. So I do thank you for the suggestion. Also assuming someone else reading this chooses to mount an amp in the OEM location, it should help them as well.

One of the rear seat bolts is perfect for your application. The bolts arent that big. Get the biggest ring terminal you can (usually 3/8"). If it doesnt fit just use a pair of dikes to cut the middle so you can stretch the ring out wider.

Any ground you use, make sure to sand down the paint to bare metal, and try to use a thick metal panel, not thin sheet metal. Also, use one ground point for all components if possible to reduce the chance of noise.

ahl395 said:

One of the rear seat bolts is perfect for your application. The bolts arent that big. Get the biggest ring terminal you can (usually 3/8"). If it doesnt fit just use a pair of dikes to cut the middle so you can stretch the ring out wider.

Any ground you use, make sure to sand down the paint to bare metal, and try to use a thick metal panel, not thin sheet metal. Also, use one ground point for all components if possible to reduce the chance of noise.

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You’re right. I didn’t think about using dikes to cut up the terminal. I was thinking I’d have to drill it out. Cutting seems much easier tho. And so you think I should ground both my amp and lc2i to the same place??

brandonc said:

You’re right. I didn’t think about using dikes to cut up the terminal. I was thinking I’d have to drill it out. Cutting seems much easier tho. And so you think I should ground both my amp and lc2i to the same place??

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A ring terminal will be really hard to drill out. It wants to spin, even in a vice. not impossible, but a pain. I used a reinforced dremel cutter wheel and cut the middle out of the ring terminal to make it fit the bolt in the middle of the rear seats. I also mounted my amp/s in the wheel well with a distribution block for power and grounds. It was about a 9 foot run though from the wheel well all the way around the perimeter to the bolt. I didnt want to run it straight under the carpet to create a bulge, plus it would hamper the box fitment.

Tomorow morning Ima go out there and see what I can come up with. Thank u all for your feedback. Think ima try using the seat bolt location via the cut/stretched ring terminal

brandonc said:

Tomorow morning Ima go out there and see what I can come up with. Thank u all for your feedback. Think ima try using the seat bolt location via the cut/stretched ring terminal

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If I can find the pic I'll post it... I popped out the seat bottom and underneath on the passengers side are a couple of bolt heads that will accept a ring terminal... just make sure to sand off the paint to make good contact.

I didn’t think to look UNDER the seat bottom. If you could find a pic I’d appreciate it a lot!!

If you remove the seat bottom, where the seat backs hinge is where I did mine, using the exact same box you did. Ground worked great but remember to disconnect the Mic under the headliner in the back seat while installing.

wired203 said:

If you remove the seat bottom, where the seat backs hinge is where I did mine, using the exact same box you did. Ground worked great but remember to disconnect the Mic under the headliner in the back seat while installing.

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When u say where the seat backs hinge do u mean the big bolt that you have to lift that carpet flap in the trunk to reveal?? A 5/8 socket takes it off if I’m not mistaken