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Lund tune on an Auto

Mick

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I had a new cat-back, CAI plus an intercooler and its pipe kit.

Drove it like that for a day and then put in the tune.

It has a huge lot more acceleration for sure, I didnt dyno it so I cant give you numbers but it sure feels much faster in general.

The take off in sports mode is really hard and fast and basically no wheel spin so you just start flying, stuff like 80-120kmph rockets as well, I hit the accelerator to go around someone the other day and I was doing 130 before I knew it.
That's what i luv about T/C cars. They really respond to tunes. My daily driver is a turbo (not Mustang) with stage 1 flash tune, nothing else and you can really feel the diff. I'm guessing, that a mildly tuned Ecoboost will match a standard GT. Do you know how much extra boost your tune has?
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Hellman109

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I haven't kept an eye on it to be honest, a quick google says max boost stock of 18 psi, I might be able to see what I get now on my drive home tonight (Its my daily driver and I have some freeway driving).
 

Mick

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I haven't kept an eye on it to be honest, a quick google says max boost stock of 18 psi, I might be able to see what I get now on my drive home tonight (Its my daily driver and I have some freeway driving).
18 PSI stock. wow! That's higher than i would have thought. I used to run a 300ZX twin turbo with nizmo mods on 18PSI. Stock, was about 8psi.
 

Hellman109

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18 PSI stock. wow! That's higher than i would have thought. I used to run a 300ZX twin turbo with nizmo mods on 18PSI. Stock, was about 8psi.
OK so I got a chance to accelerate hard and it limits right on 20psi, basically it flutters very slightly above and below that number as you accelerate hard, stays there until your foot comes off the pedal (at least upto 110 kmph).
 
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miro67

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Ok so its been a week and a half since I installed my tune. Over the past ten days I have written down my thoughts as I get settled into the tuned car. I have put everything i can think of below. Any questions just ask.

A quick reminder -I have a GT, no performance mods other than an axle back Borla S type. I soley drive the car with the paddles (its a convertible so Auto only).

The differences to date:
- shifts (using paddles) at mid to high throttle settings were much firmer, at low throttle settings they were unchanged.

- my car has a tendency to "run on" a bit (this is apparently quite common -it feels like you lift your foot off the accelerator but the car keeps a slight forward momentum). This seems to be gone with a lift off leading to engine braking -much better!

- the sensation of throttle softness, or that the gearbox has not fully engaged has gone. This means that the car pulls much more strongly in the rev range straight after gear changes. Its hard to describe but it feels like the accelerator pedal action is much more directly related to the car acceleration.

- I now get signficant wheelspin in the change from 1st to 2nd when on full throttle. enough that the traction control kicks in making 0-100k runs bloody difficult. Even on roughly 80% throttle the rears break traction. I also get a chirp from 2nd to 3rd.

- there is no material difference in characteristics in the selectable throttle response between Sport and Sport Plus (havent really bothered with race)

- the radiator fan runs a lot, and is quite loud

- the car is slightly louder at idle but not otherwise (this is a strange one and wonder if in someway the Borla exhaust resonates a little differently given the tune changes to the engine)

- responsiveness to paddle shift gear changes might be a little quicker but not much, however, i never thought this was a material issue in stock form

- the car goes like a rocket. Whilst I am yet to get a 0-100k run nailed due to wheelspin it appears 0.3 - 0.4 quicker. i also did a 3rd gear pull to redline for logging purposes -it just goes and goes, very impressive and a little scary on public roads! The incrase in performance is notable from 3000 rpm onwards (maybe a little lower down).

I have just asked lund to soften the gear changes and return the radiator fan setting to stock. I am away for the next week but after I have driven it with these revisions I will report back.

The Lund guys have been really responsive to questions. The tune was super easy to instal and in my mind an incredibly cheap performance mod. I highly recommend it so far.
 

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Mick

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Ok so its been a week and a half since I installed my tune. Over the past ten days I have written down my thoughts as I get settled into the tuned car. I have put everything i can think of below. Any questions just ask.

A quick reminder -I have a GT, no performance mods other than an axle back Borla S type. I soley drive the car with the paddles (its a convertible so Auto only).

The differences to date:
- shifts (using paddles) at mid to high throttle settings were much firmer, at low throttle settings they were unchanged.

- my car has a tendency to "run on" a bit (this is apparently quite common -it feels like you lift your foot off the accelerator but the car keeps a slight forward momentum). This seems to be gone with a lift off leading to engine braking -much better!

- the sensation of throttle softness, or that the gearbox has not fully engaged has gone. This means that the car pulls much more strongly in the rev range straight after gear changes. Its hard to describe but it feels like the accelerator pedal action is much more directly related to the car acceleration.

- I now get signficant wheelspin in the change from 1st to 2nd when on full throttle. enough that the traction control kicks in making 0-100k runs bloody difficult. Even on roughly 80% throttle the rears break traction. I also get a chirp from 2nd to 3rd.

- there is no material difference in characteristics in the selectable throttle response between Sport and Sport Plus (havent really bothered with race)

- the radiator fan runs a lot, and is quite loud

- the car is slightly louder at idle but not otherwise (this is a strange one and wonder if in someway the Borla exhaust resonates a little differently given the tune changes to the engine)

- responsiveness to paddle shift gear changes might be a little quicker but not much, however, i never thought this was a material issue in stock form

- the car goes like a rocket. Whilst I am yet to get a 0-100k run nailed due to wheelspin it appears 0.3 - 0.4 quicker. i also did a 3rd gear pull to redline for logging purposes -it just goes and goes, very impressive and a little scary on public roads! The incrase in performance is notable from 3000 rpm onwards (maybe a little lower down).

I have just asked lund to soften the gear changes and return the radiator fan setting to stock. I am away for the next week but after I have driven it with these revisions I will report back.

The Lund guys have been really responsive to questions. The tune was super easy to instal and in my mind an incredibly cheap performance mod. I highly recommend it so far.
Great feedback and it sounds mostly positive. Surprised that you are happy with paddle response time. I would like close to instant response. That's probably cause i'm used to my daily driver, with DSG box. cheers
 
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miro67

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Great feedback and it sounds mostly positive. Surprised that you are happy with paddle response time. I would like close to instant response. That's probably cause i'm used to my daily driver, with DSG box. cheers
My prior car a BMW had the MDCT box, twin clutch sequential, so changes were instantaneous. i actually think the Mustang box feels more like a manual -ie not instant, and i like that feeling of being a bit more involved.
 

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Iā€™m thinking of getting the Lund tune on my Auto GT with Borla SType axle backs. This thread has been very useful. Just a couple of questions

1. Does a tune cause any issues with servicing and/or warranty?
2. I mainly drive in Sport with paddles, does the tune mainly improve ā€˜normalā€™ or all drive settings?
3. I always use 98RON. Do we have to ask for anything particular for that as it is not used in the US?
4. Iā€™m undecided on a whether or not to add a CAI. Is that a strong recommendation with the tune? And is so which one is proving the most popular?
5. How hard is it to install the Ngauge in the middle aircon vent?
 

ahl395

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Iā€™m thinking of getting the Lund tune on my Auto GT with Borla SType axle backs. This thread has been very useful. Just a couple of questions

1. Does a tune cause any issues with servicing and/or warranty?
2. I mainly drive in Sport with paddles, does the tune mainly improve ā€˜normalā€™ or all drive settings?
3. I always use 98RON. Do we have to ask for anything particular for that as it is not used in the US?
4. Iā€™m undecided on a whether or not to add a CAI. Is that a strong recommendation with the tune? And is so which one is proving the most popular?
5. How hard is it to install the Ngauge in the middle aircon vent?
1. Servicing, no. But it can void your warranty. If you bring it in for any powertrain issue they may check the "flash counter" to see if it has been tuned. Even if you return it to stock, they can still see it was tuned at one point and can deny your warranty claim for that reason. Some dealers may check others may not.

2. The tune will improve all drive settings. The paddles will be much more responsive and shifts will be firmer/faster in all drive modes. Sport will still have more sensitive throttle response and will automatically engage Sport steering mode.

3. I'm not familliar with RON scale but use the highest octane you have available and tell Lund what octane that is. I'm sure they can convert from RON and figure out how to dial the tune in correctly.

4. Adding a CAI will net you some more power (mostly up top I believe), but IMO most of the magic is in the tune. I would go with a closed airbox CAI that requires a tune (larger MAF tube) to get the most out of it. Open airbox CAIs often have higher IATs and can get wet from the heat extractor above it.

5. Not very hard. You just have to pop off the trim around the vents. Start from the passenger side and work your way around. There are some videos on youtube showing how to do so. Route the wire from the OBD2 port up to the vent, remove the factory vent (some clips around it hold it in). Put some 3M VHB tape on the nGauge and set it into the hole. Pop the panels back on.
 

Hellman109

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On wiring it in, personally I didnt bother and it lives in my glovebox because Ive never taken it out.

I got a windshield mount and used that for the first couple of weeks, but I basically had no use for it so I unplugged it. You dont need it connected for the tune at all.


On the fuel side, I said I used BP98, which is about 95 RON US. They know how to tune for it as they've done enough of them.
 

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ahl395

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On wiring it in, personally I didnt bother and it lives in my glovebox because Ive never taken it out.

I got a windshield mount and used that for the first couple of weeks, but I basically had no use for it so I unplugged it. You dont need it connected for the tune at all.


On the fuel side, I said I used BP98, which is about 95 RON US. They know how to tune for it as they've done enough of them.
This is true, you don't need it connected for the tune after it's loaded in.

If you're interested in seeing engine stats though it's awesome to mount it up. You can display 6 parameters. Things like ECT, knock, timing, fuel trims, voltage, exhaust gas temp, gear, etc. Definitely comes in handy.
 

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On wiring it in, personally I didnt bother and it lives in my glovebox because Ive never taken it out.

I got a windshield mount and used that for the first couple of weeks, but I basically had no use for it so I unplugged it. You dont need it connected for the tune at all.


On the fuel side, I said I used BP98, which is about 95 RON US. They know how to tune for it as they've done enough of them.
Um, our 98 is LESS than their 93... only just.
 

Burkey

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Iā€™m thinking of getting the Lund tune on my Auto GT with Borla SType axle backs. This thread has been very useful. Just a couple of questions

1. Does a tune cause any issues with servicing and/or warranty?
2. I mainly drive in Sport with paddles, does the tune mainly improve ā€˜normalā€™ or all drive settings?
3. I always use 98RON. Do we have to ask for anything particular for that as it is not used in the US?
4. Iā€™m undecided on a whether or not to add a CAI. Is that a strong recommendation with the tune? And is so which one is proving the most popular?
5. How hard is it to install the Ngauge in the middle aircon vent?
1. Possibly
2. No idea
3. Make it ABSOLUTELY clear to them that it's an Aussie car. If you mention performance pack there's every chance that they'll supply a tune that caters to the US oil pressure gauge in the centre vent. Won't work.
4. Lund love the PMAS. They can do any CAI you choose though.
Their reasoning is that the PMAS gives a very clean signal. Easy to tune consistently. If you're not trying to make over 300kw at the tyres, maybe stick with a closed top.
5. I never bothered installing the gauge. It only gets pulled out to flash from flex to race tune on race weekends. Outside of that, it serves no purpose unless you like to watch numbers or maybe want a digital speedo in a poor location.
Also, it's pretty easy to remove the card when it's not installed, which is kind of important if you don't have a laptop, particularly during the revision period.
 
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miro67

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1 possibly, depends what fails and if the dealer notices the tune. You can de instal the tune but the fact that a tune has been loaded is still discoverable

2 see my first detailed review. I remain of the view it makes little difference, using the paddles, to gear change initiation but quicker clutch engagement makes the changes feel quicker. The clutch engagement is almost the best change the tune makes, no more mushy acceleration after gear changes

3. As Burkey says donā€™t mention performance pack or you get a tune that works perfectly but needs to be swapped. The bigger issue is our fuel quality, the 95ron tune has given widespread knock issues in Aussie cars including mine. Either buy the flex fuel tune or expect to end up with a lower octane tune. Still goes like a rocket as the ecu no longer compensates for knock issues.

4. CAI is personal, do the tune only to start and see if you are happy. If not go cai and Lund will modify the tune for free within three months. Your warranty is likely gone with cai installed and tune.

5. I didnā€™t instal the Nguage permenantly as they serve little purpose other than tune up load and logging.

My final comments after having the tune for a few months. The tune plus exhaust absolutely and fundamentally changes the character of the car for the better. Is the Lund tune perfect, no. Does that matter to me, no.

It is a shame you are not in Sydney as I would take you for a spin as you have exactly the same setup you are thinking about, convertible, borla exhaust, Lund tune. Bloody fantastic combination.
 

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Thanks for all the info lads. Just need to decide whether it is worth causing warranty issues
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