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Old 05-17-2017, 02:29 PM   #1
HextallS550
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SYNC 3 swap, It's all in here

** UPDATED 12/14/2017** New graphics

So I'd like to have one all encompassing post for those that want to swap to Sync 3. The original thread has great information but it's long and cluttered and we really need to start something that answers your questions plus add the information that we have collectively found.
HUGE thank you to everyone who contributed on Mustang6G! @HizliBullet @zackmd1 @mustangmike86 @Spart @sv9999 @fordsvtparts @RedFireV8 @mgrey



*UPDATED*

The Basics

This modification will require you to program certain modules. You will need FORScan software:
http://www.forscan.org/

Follow the directions to sign up for their board, you must have a membership to receive an extended license, only an extended license can make the as built data mods that are required.

AngelDeath has an excellent How To for the basics:
http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/show...62&postcount=1

FORScan programming requires a J2534 device, I use the Ford VCM-II because its what I have, most people use:
https://www.amazon.com/ScanTool-4261.../dp/B006NZTZLQ

2015-2017 cars with 4.2" non touchscreen are base cars
2015 cars with a touchscreen are My Ford Touch aka MFT
2016-2017 cars with a touchscreen are Sync 3
The touchscreen and APIM; Accessory Protocol Interface Module (for you "engineering types with 3 friends") aka Sync module are basically one unit. The cars with the non-touch screen have the 4.2" screen and a separate Sync module.
The ACM is the Audio Control Module. It is housed below the APIM, it contains the CD player, a 4 channel amplifier and the tuners for FM/AM/SAT/HD
Premium cars have SDARS aka SAT aka SiriusXM already, some have HD Radio as well, base cars will need an ACM if they want SAT or SAT/HD.
The Hub is the USB connection inside of your console.
If you have a base car or MFT and want CarPlay or Android Auto you need a new hub.

What do I need?

1. APIM/Touchscreen aka Sync Module Accessory Protocol Interface Module for short, LOL
Application: Base to Sync 3 and MFT to Sync 3
-How much? I have several people including myself that have found them at LKQ without NAV for $275-350. NAV units are normally $400-600. My advice, use Android Auto or Apple Maps. It is confirmed that APIMs from other cars such F-150, Focus, etc. will work as well. However, you will need to change the brackets.
If you want factory NAV you must ask the seller for the VIN. That is the only way to verify.



2. ACM - Audio Control Module
Application: If you have a base car and want to add Sirius or Sirus and HD radio you will need the proper ACM.
If you have MFT and want to add HD Radio you will need the proper ACM
If you have a base car and do not want Sirius or Sirius/HD you can use your stock ACM
-How much? The SAT ready ACM are usually $100-125 and the SAT/HD are $150-175 on Car-part Pro. LKQ has these as well
-It's actually pretty easy to tell the difference between the three kinds
--Base cars had on black Fakra connector on the back
--SAT cars had a black as well as a curry Fakra connector on back and the SDARS ID printed on the label
--SAT/HD have a black and curry Fakra connector on the rear, the SDARS ID and a disclaimer about HD printed on the label
-- Your ACM has nothing to do with your capability to add NAV. I see eBay sellers who will try and tell you that it does, it does not.
-Part Numbers: (Engineering number) FR3T-19C107-XX (< SUFFIX)
Most of the modules with SAT have a suffix that begins with T i.e FR3T-19C107-TE i.e FR3T-19C107-TA
SAT/HD begin with M, or C, i.e FR3T-19C107-MJ or i.e FR3T-19C107-CA
Base cars mainly have J and S suffixes.
My advice is not to purchase anything without pictures.




3. HU5Z-19A387-A Media Hub
Application: Base to Sync 3 or MFT to Sync 3 REQUIRED for CarPlay AND Android Auto


If you have MFT and don't want to build an adapter harness I make them, PM.
MFT Hubs have caused issues on Sync 3 APIMs do not attempt to use the MFT hub with Sync 3
The base hub is different than MFT or Sync 3. It's not really a hub, just a bezel with a female USB connected to it.

You will have to add terminals to the base APIM connector for the Premium hubs. The Sync 3 hubs are simply power and ground. Pin 1 on the hub goes to Pin 8 on the APIM and Pin 4 on the hub goes to Pin 38 on the APIM. (Yes, there is a pin currently in 38 simply remove the existing pin and tape it back)
In order to power this hub you will need to purchase a JST connector and 2 terminals. This is the same thing as the $20 Ford WPT-1239 for less than a buck

4 pin connector http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...YoTMTeGQ%3D%3D
Terminals http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...deeFjRSg%3d%3d

If you have MFT and want to add a HU5Z without splicing wires you will need a Molex 8 pin female connector and 2 terminals Terminal 1 [MFT] goes to 1 [HU5Z] and terminal 8 [MFT] goes to 4 [HU5Z]
Connector http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...TxE62hrlsD0%3d
Terminals http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...Jb2OYdaArBE%3d

I make these if you don't want to make your own.


4. Bezel to Hub USB Cable and APIM to Hub cable FR3Z-14D202-A & FR3Z-14D202-B
Application: Base to Sync 3 or MFT to Sync 3 if you want Apple Car Play or Android Auto. BE AWARE, people trying use a MFT hub with Sync 3 on multiple platforms report issues. The USB cables on the HU5Z hub are different and have a different routing compared to base cars. The black cable, FR3Z-14D202-A connects the APIM to the hub and the grey cable FR3Z-14D202-B connects the hub to your bezel for full functionality of the system. Cables were $25 each at ANF White Bear Lake See below for routing
You have to understand that in order for things to work as Ford intended you must install them as Ford intended. The last thing you want is a cheap USB cable to have an issue during a system update. That is why I recommend the new Ford cables vs. trying to cobble something together. You should also be aware that you cannot update properly to Sync 2.2 or higher without this hub. If the $50 they cost is really going to break you, it's time to stop modding cars. Jumping over nickles to get to pennies is how GM does things.



5. Premium bezel You only need a bezel if you have a base car.
Call Mike R. at AutoNation Ford - White Bear Lake if you have a GT350 or if you want a bezel without the heated seat buttons that will be useless in a base car. The current pricing according to Mike is $350. These come from United Radio, not Ford. If you try and order this online from fordparts.com you will receive a cancelled order notification. If you don't care about the buttons I see them for $100-150 on Car-part Pro. You want a bezel that has 18E245 as its base, not 18E243, that is the 4.2" base.

6.SAT antenna
Application: Base to Sync 3 if you want SAT
Sirius has a newer antenna listed under part # NGVA3. I can confirm that this is the best Sirius antenna currently on the market and it is cheap. You will need to change the connector from SMB to a curry Fakra or purchase a curry Fakra to SMB adapter. I have seen them on Amazon for under $10

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...=ATVPDKIKX0DER
https://www.amazon.com/Eightwood-Fem...urry+fakra+smb

7. GPS antenna
Application: Base to Sync 3 and MFT to Sync 3
The GPS antenna is needed because the Sync 3 APIM doesn't use the GPSM anymore. Base cars and MFT do. The Fakra connector on the rear of the APIM is for GPS whether you have NAV or not.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...=A64JRSYTRERAS

8. APIM & ACM Terminals
Application: Base to Sync 3
There are few terminals you will need to purchase in order to add wires to the APIM connector. If you are a novice to crimping or dont have an actual crimp tool meant for small terminals purchase 20-25 of them
Tyco (aka TE) 1924955-3 terminals
If you are adding Sirius and NAV and wish to use Travelink you will also need Tyco 2035334-1 Again, order more than 2 if you're new to this. If your APIM is not factory NAV don't worry about this step.

9. Trim Panel Clips
If you follow the instructions posted below for the Ford GT350 starter button install and you use a proper set of plastic trim removal tools you wll avoid broken clips. However, it is inevitable that shit happens when disassembling your car. Therefore you may want to have some of the trim panel clips on hand:
W717661-S300 - Yellow clips
w714972s300 - Blue clips

Base cars ONLY: Follow the instructions below for pin changes. Custom built plug n play harnesses are also available. See picture below for finished harness.



MFT Cars: you only need to purchase or make the hub adapter above

Be aware that the instructions below may not make any sense until you take your car apart. Unhook your battery first! I take no responsibility for the modifications listed here, you are on your own if you fuck something up.

The best guide for disassembling your dash and center column is the instructions provided by Ford Performance for the GT350 starter button. Using these and the proper tools will make it much easier as you will know where to pry and what to remove:
DISASSEMBLY

1. After disassembly remove the four screws holding in the 4.2" screen, it will obvoiusly no longer be used. Then remove the 3 or 4 screws holding in the base sync module. This is the black box located behind the 4.2" screen. This module will no longer be used. Now, remove the ACM by removing the four screws holding it in.

2.Begin by disassembling the 54 pin latch connector that was connected to the base APIM. Disassemble the APIM connector, by removing the outer shield. You will be left with two terminal carriers that slide together to form one piece. Label the wires that are to be removed or take a picture BEFORE you start and note what you removed by color on a piece of paper Following the chart below remove pins 5, 6, 16, 17, 23, 24, 25, 26 and 29




3. Following the included schematic remove the pins noted in yellow as "Pin changes" and carefully label each in any manner that will allow you to remember which wire is which.

4. Now, insert the wires that were removed in step 3 into their correct position, again, use the schematic below.

5. Next, you will need to cut four 22 gauge primary wires approximately 16" long, use different colors and install the Tyco 1924955-3 terminals that you purchased.
Then cut two more lengths of 22 ga. primary wire approximately 24 inches long and add the same Tyco 1924955-3 terminals to these.
Finally, cut two more pieces of 22 ga. primary wire the same length as the Ford USB cable with the black USB connector and add the same Tyco 1924955-3 terminals to these. Label all 6 of these wires based on the schematic below so that you know which wire to insert into which cavity of the APIM connector.
For a visual use the infographic pictured here:



6.Take the two wires that you labeled as MS-CAN + and MS-CAN - and carefully run them along the length of the factory wiring to the rear of the dash. There is a large junction here with several leads of wire, find the wires that lead to the factory GPSM that is attached on top of the dash. Remove the connector from the factory GPS module and peel back the cloth tape approximately 6 inches. CAREFULLY strip the insulation from only one grey wire and only one violet wire. Do NOT cut these or remove them. They are part of the CAN network and are redundant, cutting them means breaking the chain. Cut the primary wires that you made to length in order to attach them via the twist and solder method and then insulate them with a quality electrical tape such as 3M Super 33+.

7. Follow the same procedure for the 4.2" screen connector. These wires are used for the back up camera.

8. Follow the same procedure for the ACM, however, once you cut the wires to the appropriate length and a Tyco 2035334-1 terminal to each wire. The factory ACM connectors are 26 pin and 24 pin. You need the smaller 24 pin, look at the side of the connector, you will 2 clear/white tabs, carefully push these forward using a small flat blade screwdriver, do this for both sides to release the white terminal position assurance tab. After you release the tab insert the proper terminal into position 6 for (+) and position 19, directly below it for (-). Now, push the terminal position assurance back into the connector.

9. Now take the two pieces of wire that you made the same length as the USB cable. These are the power and ground for your new HU5Z hub. Carefully route these wires and the Ford black USB cable from the dash to the center console. Attach Tyco APIM terminals to these and insert into the APIM connector. On the right hand side of the dash cavity is the factory routing position for these. Use this as a guide to route the harness. Insulate these two wires with Tech Flex, Tesa tape or some other durable insulation, the dash is sharp and could pierce the wires.

10. Once these wires are routed to the center console, remove the base USB header panel by pushing it toward the rear of the car from the rear of the panel itself.

11. You can now cut the wires to the appropriate length and install the JST SAIT-A03T-M064 terminals for the JST connector. Plug the New JST connector harness into the hub along with the black USB cable form the dash as well as the grey USB cable that will run to the bezel. Simply snap the HU5Z hub into place and then route your grey USB wire to the approximate position of the old bezel USB connector.



12. Using a wide flat blade screwdriver carefully pry the old GPS module from it metal mounting bracket, If you are careful and take your time the adhesive will stay with the bracket. Attach your GPS antenna to this. Failure to attach the antenna to metal during installation may cause the compass to read in the reverse direction intermittently. Clip the bracket with the new GPS antenna back into it's factory position. Attach the Sirius antenna next to the GPS antenna and route the wire for the antennas. The blue Fakra on the GPS will connect to the back of the APIM/Touchscreen and the curry Fakra on the Sirius antenna will connect to the curry connector on the Sirius or Sirius/HD ACM.

13. You're now ready to begin the install, reassemble the APIM's 54 pin terminal carriers into the shield with the grey latch. Now, plug in the 26 and 24 pin connectors to the ACM, the black Fakra for the analog antenna and the curry fakra for the Sirius antenna, next, attach the ACM with the four screws removed earlier.




14. Install the APIM/Touchscreen by inserting the 54 pin connector and then attaching it to the car with the four screws removed earlier.

15. Finish reinstalling your trim panels and center console by reverting to the Ford Performance GT350 starter button directions above.

PINOUT
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Last edited by HextallS550; 02-21-2018 at 04:58 PM.
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Old 05-17-2017, 03:06 PM   #2
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good info!
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Old 05-17-2017, 08:53 PM   #3
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Great info!!!
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Old 05-17-2017, 09:44 PM   #4
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This is a great source of info! My TomTop unit is still working fine, but I'm going to keep this in mind.
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Old 05-18-2017, 12:03 AM   #5
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Looking forward to this swap and providing a vehicle for your how-to. Just waiting on the bezel from Autonation.

This should probably get stickied.
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Old 05-18-2017, 04:22 AM   #6
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So to go from my 2015 Premium MFT with NAV to Sync 3 I just need the APIM/Touchscreen aka Sync Module with Nav and a little bit of re-wiring?

I am an Andriod guy so Appleplay I could care less about.
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Old 05-18-2017, 08:15 AM   #7
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What's an LKQ?
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Old 05-18-2017, 09:02 AM   #8
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Quote:
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What's an LKQ?
Its a nationwide chain of salvage yards. If you dont have one near you, they sell parts both online and on eBay.
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Old 05-18-2017, 09:59 AM   #9
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Wonder if there is anybody willing to install this for people for a couple hundred bucks for labor after they get all the parts together? I cant stand the MFT, it's wonky and the maps suck.
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Old 05-18-2017, 10:29 AM   #10
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Sweet. All I want is to be able to use Apple CarPlay
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Old 05-18-2017, 10:49 AM   #11
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Good info. Will there be a video coming with showing how to "add pins and relocate?"

Maybe also some ASBUILT values to change for full functionality?
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Old 05-18-2017, 11:08 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xavier View Post
Sweet. All I want is to be able to use Apple CarPlay
I will second that.
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Old 05-18-2017, 11:49 AM   #13
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Very informative!!! I would love to have this mod on my car. Thanks!!!
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Old 05-19-2017, 03:34 PM   #14
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Thank you so much HextallS550!

I am upgrading to SYNC3 Non-Nav from Base (2017). I have everything except GPS antenna. I just want to make sure that I still need GPS antenna even my SYNC3 is non-nav. Am I correct?
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Old 05-19-2017, 04:43 PM   #15
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If we have Nav now do we need to get the Sync3 with nav also?
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