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Benjamin
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I have been slackin with my photography lately since it's been winter in Wisconsin and everyone has there cars put away. A couple weeks ago we had some 40-50 degree weather before it dipped down into the 20s and 30s again. I pulled the car out of the garage for a little bit and grabbed a couple quick snap. Threw a short edit on them in Lightroom.

Also, don't mind the stock wheels. Aftermarket ones are getting new tires.

Setup:
Canon 6D Mark 2
Sigma Art 35mm F1.4
1/3200th
100iso
f1.4



IMG_0014.jpg




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I have been slackin with myo photography lately since it's been winter in Wisconsin and everyone has there cars put away. A ocouple weeks ago we had some 40-50 degree weather before it dipped down into the 20s and 30s again. I pulled the car out of the garage for a little bit and grabbed a couple quick snap. Threw a short edit on them in Lightroom.

Also, don't mind the stock wheels. Aftermarket ones are getting new tires.

Setup:
Canon 6D Mark 2
Sigma Art 35mm F1.4
1/3200th
100iso


Does the rear window spoiler thingy actually do anything??p
 

Noble Design

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Super Amateur but here are some I took last week.
IMG_8591-1.jpg
IMG_8600-2.jpg
IMG_8606-4.jpg
IMG_8602-3.jpg
 

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Coolpix

Here's the VFW shot I got recently with my Nikon L30, I use "easy thumbnails" to reduce.
IMG_20180303_121630_714.jpg
 

Grimace427

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Super Amateur but here are some I took last week.


You have a great location for shoots, consider yourself lucky! Best advice is get a tripod then set up a shot you think will look good; snap a shot and start playing with the camera settings while still in the same spot and look at the photos individually to see which one gets the effect you are looking for. Things like aperture will get more or less of the image in focus, play with it so you can get the entire car in focus but still blur the background.

If you have a zoom lens zoom in all the way and then back up until the car just fills the frame.
 

Grimace427

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I have been slackin with my photography lately since it's been winter in Wisconsin and everyone has there cars put away. ...
Setup:
Canon 6D Mark 2
Sigma Art 35mm F1.4
1/3200th
100iso
f1.4


Love my Sigma 35 ART lens, finally got a chance to use it with my D750 yesterday taking shots of my neighbor's dog. Hope to get some car photos this spring. I am considering if I want to trade it for the 24-70 ART though since I've been doing a lot of indoor events and having the flexibility plus the image stabilization would be a big plus.
 

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Love my Sigma 35 ART lens, finally got a chance to use it with my D750 yesterday taking shots of my neighbor's dog. Hope to get some car photos this spring. I am considering if I want to trade it for the 24-70 ART though since I've been doing a lot of indoor events and having the flexibility plus the image stabilization would be a big plus.
What I've noticed with the 35 1.4 for car photos is that anything where you are NOT straight on, and whatever is beyond/in-front of are way blurry. Personally I like shooting wide open.

My 24-70 is my favorite lens. I've only been shooting for a year; first on a T6I and now on a 6Dmark2. The 24-70 was my first lens. 35 was my second. If Sigma or Canon would add IS to the 24-70, it would be the perfect lens for everything. They have OS but adding IS like the 24-105 has would fantastic.

These were shot at the M6G MIR track rental last October.



_DSC6743-1.jpg


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I like them; what do you use for post?
 

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Some of my work with a Sigma 24-70. All are with the 6Dmark2.
Sorry for the lack of mustang photos :rolleyes:















 

Grimace427

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What I've noticed with the 35 1.4 for car photos is that anything where you are NOT straight on, and whatever is beyond/in-front of are way blurry. Personally I like shooting wide open.

My 24-70 is my favorite lens. I've only been shooting for a year; first on a T6I and now on a 6Dmark2. The 24-70 was my first lens. 35 was my second. If Sigma or Canon would add IS to the 24-70, it would be the perfect lens for everything. They have OS but adding IS like the 24-105 has would fantastic.



I like them; what do you use for post?


I like wide open for portraits and animals but for cars I'll stop down to f5.6 or even f8 to get more in focus. If the background is far enough away it still looks nicely out of focus to get some smooth bokeh. Something I've been noticing more lately is a ton of chromatic aberration when wide open when shooting outdoors. Not much of a problem indoors thankfully.


I use lightroom for editing.
 

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Some of my work with a Sigma 24-70. All are with the 6Dmark2.
Sorry for the lack of mustang photos :rolleyes:

Sweet shots! Is your Sigma 24-70 the ART series? Have you noticed any softness when wide open? That's one of the criticisms of the latest model though it seems to be hit or miss and those that noticed it were able to fix the softness with the Sigma dock.
 

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I like wide open for portraits and animals but for cars I'll stop down to f5.6 or even f8 to get more in focus. If the background is far enough away it still looks nicely out of focus to get some smooth bokeh. Something I've been noticing more lately is a ton of chromatic aberration when wide open when shooting outdoors. Not much of a problem indoors thankfully.


I use lightroom for editing.
It really depends on the setting but typically I'm shooting at 1.4 on the 35 and 2.8 on the 24-70. As seen above, I've been shooting more rollers and I've found using aperture priority mode/TV and iso of 100, the stop is going up to about 6 or 8. I generally like using iso 100 unless its crazy bright out and ill drop to 50.

I dont know Nikon very well but what ive noticed with Canons is the camera has the ability to do lens corrections. Ive turned all of those off on the body for each of my lenses. Could potentially have an issue due to the color profile you're shooting in?

When importing to Lightroom, I have an "autopreset" that drops my standard things onto the photo. Like the things i do to every single photo no matter what the edit is going to be. Under lens corrections, i usually do profile correct and remove chromatic aberration. This seems to work better than the in-body corrections.

I use primarily Lightroom. I have photoshop but I feel like I need to improve my composition before learning more in the Post Production side of things.

Sweet shots! Is your Sigma 24-70 the ART series? Have you noticed any softness when wide open? That's one of the criticisms of the latest model though it seems to be hit or miss and those that noticed it were able to fix the softness with the Sigma dock.
My Sigma 24-70 is the NON art version. It is about 3 or 4 years old. About 6 months ago I sent it out to have some things repaired on it and the quality jumped slightly. I am a little convinced its a Frankenstein with some ART and some non-ART components.
 

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It really depends on the setting but typically I'm shooting at 1.4 on the 35 and 2.8 on the 24-70. As seen above, I've been shooting more rollers and I've found using aperture priority mode/TV and iso of 100, the stop is going up to about 6 or 8. I generally like using iso 100 unless its crazy bright out and ill drop to 50.

I dont know Nikon very well but what ive noticed with Canons is the camera has the ability to do lens corrections. Ive turned all of those off on the body for each of my lenses. Could potentially have an issue due to the color profile you're shooting in?

When importing to Lightroom, I have an "autopreset" that drops my standard things onto the photo. Like the things i do to every single photo no matter what the edit is going to be. Under lens corrections, i usually do profile correct and remove chromatic aberration. This seems to work better than the in-body corrections.

I use primarily Lightroom. I have photoshop but I feel like I need to improve my composition before learning more in the Post Production side of things.



My Sigma 24-70 is the NON art version. It is about 3 or 4 years old. About 6 months ago I sent it out to have some things repaired on it and the quality jumped slightly. I am a little convinced its a Frankenstein with some ART and some non-ART components.


I also do the profile and color corrections in a preset, but when you look closely if the aberrations are bad enough the correction will actually remove some of the correct colors as well. In one of my latest shots of my neighbor's dog when she was holding the leash there was sharp aberration around her hand and upon correction it actually made some of her skin grey. Now I allow some aberration to remain since you can only notice it if you zoom all the way in. Correcting completely is actually more noticeable ironically. I shoot in either neutral or flat picture profile for the least in-camera file alterations.

Of course I can just stop down the lens to f1.8 or so and it is gone completely and still retains the sharpness that the Sigma 35 1.4 is known for as opposed to my Nikon native 50mm f1.8 which is very soft when shooting wide open at f1.8.

I can do lens focus fine-tuning in my Nikon, not sure if there are lens corrections but I'm not too worried about it.


I leave ISO at base 100 as much as possible since I'm using some nice glass. When I'm in unknown lighting conditions like moving around indoors room to room I'll set to auto ISO and set max to maybe 3200 and min shutter speed to a few stops above the focus length(1/50 for 35mm, 1/80 for a 50mm for example) and shoot in aperture priority.
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