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Bull Run

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ProMeth Direct Port WMI with 5th Injector

I'm continuing with the heat control projects with the summer on the horizon. Unfortunately, TruFiber A81-RL hood's on backorder till the end of July, so my next mod was the ProMeth Direct Port WMI kit with the 5th injector option.

Benefits are better distribution of the mixture amongst cylinders (with the 5th nozzle located before the IAT2 sensor so the sensor "sees" the cooling effect) and five smaller nozzles (95cc/each) provide better atomization than the existing single larger nozzle (500cc).

I opted to purchase the kit mounted and pressure tested on an intake manifold so I won't be out a car if I bungle the installation.

The kit I received was different than the one pictured on the ProMeth page (they'll update the picture soon). They recently revised their port injection kits because they found that manifold vacuum was sucking the mixture out of the tubing before the check valve, which caused delays in spaying on subsequent boosts. Revised version adds two small check valves before each pair of manifold nozzles, in addition to the existing large check valve before the assembly and a small one on the 5th nozzle.

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As installed on the car:

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The 5th nozzle was installed on the charge pipe where the old single nozzle used to be.

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Everything seems to be working great during the quick test drive. The real test will be at end of next week when the daytime highs hit over 100 degrees.
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roskorocker

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awesome build thread! I'm in AZ too, just grabbed a '16 EB about a month ago. keep up the good work man.
 

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I'm in north Mesa
 

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If you are non-PP, let me know if you want some PP stock parts for free (e.g. rotors, dampers, and soon springs).
I will definitely take you up on that! you just let me know when, where and what kind of beer you like.
 
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Tig Vision Lightweight Front Bumper Bar

I was looking at some weight loss options and came access the Tig Vision Lightweight Front Bumper Bar. I decided to give it a try and installed it today.

With the stock bumper:
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With the bumper bar:

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The bar felt strong enough to do a pull-up off of it but probably won't offer the same protection as a full sized bumper. I guess this will give me an excuse to buy upgraded radiator and IC if they get damaged in a low-speed impact.

The weight of the stock bumper (11.8 lbs):
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The weight of the bumper bar (3.9 lbs, the bar was too light to register on the scale by itself)
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Weight savings of 7.9 lbs, maybe a little more since it also replaces the plastic piece inside of the bumper cover. It may not sound much but at $150, it saved about the same amount of weight as the $990 CF trunk lid.
 
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Update on the ProMeth WMI Port Injection

With afternoon ambient temperature hitting over 100 degrees, it's common to see the charge air temperature approaching 150 degrees when stopped with the AC on.

In this example, I was pulling out of the gas station when the charge air temp was reading over 140 degrees. I did a short WOT acceleration to get into boost and trigger the WMI. The car was able to add 3 degrees of the timing (current tune limits timing correction to +3 degrees) and the OAR remained at -1.00. Before the port injection upgrade, I usually see uneven amounts of advance between cylinders during high charge air temp situations, probably due to uneven mixture distribution.
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Blue Moon

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Bull, did your car have the active grill shutter system? I'm wondering if that's compatible with the lightweight bumper.
 

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Bull, did your car have the active grill shutter system? I'm wondering if that's compatible with the lightweight bumper.
It did, but I removed it as a part of the IC swap and didn't put it back on. The bumper bar is skinner and curves outward (also replaces the plastic piece between upper and lower grilles) so it actually increases the space.
 

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So you think it's possible to keep the AGS with the lightweight bumper? I love losing weight, but I also love aerodynamics, so I'm trying to have my cake and eat it too!
 
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Steeda Differential Bushing Insert System

I bought a bunch of Steeda goodies during their Memorial Day sale. I started with one of the easier mods to install, which is the differential bushing insert. I selected the Street to Full Race Combo Kit because I wanted to try the aluminum bushing inserts. Steeda made it sound like the aluminum version is for race only because it will significantly increase NVH, so if the aluminum inserts are too harsh, I'll have the option to swap them out for one of the urethane ones.

Installation was pretty straightforward, started with dropping the exhaust to get it out of the way and lowering the rear end of the subframe to prove the clearance to pull the long mounting bolts out.

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After installing the rear inserts and bolting the rear end of the subframe back on, the next step was to drop the front end of the subframe. The factory bolts come out on the other side of the bushing for the front end. Due to this, Steeda provided a pair of slightly shorter bolts so there'll be some thread left for the additional bolts up front to hold the front inserts in place.

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Getting the front insert bolt on the driver's side was a pain because there's less clearance due to the gas tank. Fortunately, the plastic cover for the tank bends far enough to wedge the bolt, washer, and insert through.

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Driving impressions:

It felt like these inserts improved differential mounting points to the subframe, similar to how BMR CB005 improved subframe mounting points to the chassis.

These inserts eliminated the differential wiggling around due to soft bushings, which improved the throttle response and significantly reduced the common drivetrain "thud" noise. I probably wouldn't even notice any increase in NVH if someone installed them without my knowledge, so I foresee sticking with the aluminum inserts.

If you are considering installation of BMR CB005 or something similar, consider adding these inserts at the same time as you'll be dropping the subframe anyways.
 
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More Steeda Goodies

Day 2 of installing Steeda goodies:

As it pains me to add weight to the car, jacking rails are something I should've installed from the beginning since I work on my car often. It was a pretty simple install with a helping hand and makes the car that much easier to left now, especially with lowering springs installed.

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I was initially thinking about going with minimal drop springs, but knowing me, I would've gotten used to it quickly. Therefore, I went with the Ultralite springs as I heard good things about them and I really can't go any lower without seriously affecting street drivability.

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Instead of cutting the stock bumpstops to accommodate the drop, I went with the adjustable bumpstop kit as they look and feel sturdier. I took the bottom pieces out as I wasn't using the stock or minimum drop springs.

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I probably don't need the camber plates for the amount I was dropping but decided to add them while the struts were off to accommodate future adjustment flexibility.

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For the rear spring swap, I used the method where you loosen one side of the subframe and have a helper pull the spring out while you push the subframe down. I added the alignment kit for the BMR CB005 since I had the mounting bolts out.

The lightweight exhaust mod project worked on earlier (see the next post) took longer than expected, so I didn't have the time to install all of the Steeda parts. They are supporting mods for the drop, which are the front roll center & bumpsteer correction kit and the rear adjustable camber arms.

I had an alignment done this morning so the car will at least be in a drivable condition. A short test drive felt fine, and the car feels tight on turns. I'll have time for longer drives over next couple of days.
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