ProCharger HO - Questions for fellow owners

So I have the ProCharger HO kit (3.6" Pulley and 52lb injectors) 2015 GT Manual - 635WHP


Just have some questions that are not about performance, but daily usage. The car is a monster when I am Wide Open Throttle and destroys tires lol

My questions are more for when im not trying to drive like I live my life 1/4 mile at a time

1) Is there anything I can do to change out the bypass valve, presently I have the racing version and it is so loud. When I am just trying to drive out of boost (low RPM cruising) the front of the car sounds like a factory air compressor with a broken valve. Do they make anything I can run that is quieter or maybe something to route the air back in somewhere else? How do the Whipple and Roush systems handle the air created when not 1/2 throttle or more?


2) Squeaking Noise - So I have the straight cut gears in my ProCharger and I know that thing is just loud as hell. But I also have quite a bit of squeaking also when I am just at idle or light driving. I thought maybe the belt was loose, but it seems tight. Anyone else experience this?


3) Casual Driving - Let me say this before I ask the question, this would be my first 600+ HP car so this might more fall into "you made your car this way, you cant drive it like a Toyota Corolla"

So when I am just trying to drive at low RPM say in a parking lot or through my neighborhood the car feels like it hates me. RPM's jump around a bit, car bucks a little, overall it just is not happy. Is this just expected with the setup and power? I love the car to death and when I am in the interstate its amazing, but sub 45mph streets or residential roads are miserable.




Thank you in advance, just trying to get some feedback from other owners.

1) Should've just stuck with the proflow valve instead of the big red race valve. If you got the closed valve it could be routed to an air filter to help muffle. If open valve your SOL. Whipple and similar PD blowers recirculate the excess air back through the blower.
2) Might double check the belt tension, and pulley alignment.
3) Did you get the procharger tune, or 3rd party? Sounds like surging which is somewhat of a problem somewhat often.

Jay-rod427 said:

1) Should've just stuck with the proflow valve instead of the big red race valve. If you got the closed valve it could be routed to an air filter to help muffle. If open valve your SOL. Whipple and similar PD blowers recirculate the excess air back through the blower.
2) Might double check the belt tension, and pulley alignment.
3) Did you get the procharger tune, or 3rd party? Sounds like surging which is somewhat of a problem somewhat often.

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1) The guy I ordered the kit from told me the proflow valve sucked and didnt seal good when closed. I might just order the ProFlow valve and toss that on if it will help with the noise.

2) Yeah I will double check all this.

3) I am working with DiabloMatt on the board and he is the best!!! I owe him so much for all he has done, just curious if maybe I still have an issue tune wise or if its just how the car is with a ProCharger on.

I had a DiabloMatt tune for N/A stock GT that surged like you are saying less than 50 mph around 12-1500 rpm. He never did get it straightened out. Something about the cams doing wonky stuff.

What brand are the 52lb injectors you are using?

The proflow valve is plenty enough for your setup. 90% of your noise will be gone.

Is this what I need to buy?



If so where does the other end plumb to? If I recall with my race valve the pipe terminated into the valve and did not go anywhere else where this one looks to keep running. Do I just stick a small filter on the end?

Yes that's it. One end attaches to the piping, the other to a hose and filter if desired. The valve opens and releases pressure through the filter side. The filter is only there to muffle the noise. The race valve is an open design in that when it vents it just lets the excess air out of all the ports around it, that's where all the noise is generated.

You can probably find someone on the forum that will trade you for your race valve.

kcc0521 said:

You can probably find someone on the forum that will trade you for your race valve.

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:cheers::cheers:

cpages2,

I have one if you want to trade.

z06psi said:

:cheers::cheers:

cpages2,

I have one if you want to trade.

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Thank you but I dont want any downtime and if I ever want to go back I would like to have the Race valve. Found one for sale cheap, $100.00 Just ordered it.

cpages2 said:

Thank you but I dont want any downtime and if I ever want to go back I would like to have the Race valve. Found one for sale cheap, $100.00 Just ordered it.

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It is sitting on my desk. I would have sent it to you first.

whatever.

Should've gone helical cut. Your issue number 3 is tune for sure. Lund tune on mine drives like stock out of boost.

Lot of good accurate advice...let me throw mine in.

1) Yes the proflow is much quieter and works very well...that will quiet it down a lot. I went with the helical cut gears and you can barely hear the blower...pretty much stealth mode.

2) I had the most God awful whine/chirp after install. I replaced belts, pulleys, put a new alternator on it. Would come and go but mostly there. Then the PC tech on this forum asked me three questions. First asked me if i changed belts - check. Next asked if I had pulley on head unit correct. Long shoulder should be against the head unit pushing pulley out to its furthest possible point - check on that one also. Next he asked if I installed the spacer between the drive pulley and head unit - not check - didn't know what he was talking about. There was nothing in the install instructions talking about it and it was not on the parts break down manual I had on it either. I found out that there is suppose to be a .135" spacer that I was missing. PC offered to hook me up but I was in a hurry. Went to local farm fleet store and bought a washer .110" thick, installed between the head unit and pulley and wah-laa all quiet forever. Might check that out.

3) Has to be tune related. Mine drive absolutely like it did stock (better actually) at any speed.

Hope this helps!

whatsup62 said:

Lot of good accurate advice...let me throw mine in.

1) Yes the proflow is much quieter and works very well...that will quiet it down a lot. I went with the helical cut gears and you can barely hear the blower...pretty much stealth mode.

2) I had the most God awful whine/chirp after install. I replaced belts, pulleys, put a new alternator on it. Would come and go but mostly there. Then the PC tech on this forum asked me three questions. First asked me if i changed belts - check. Next asked if I had pulley on head unit correct. Long shoulder should be against the head unit pushing pulley out to its furthest possible point - check on that one also. Next he asked if I installed the spacer between the drive pulley and head unit - not check - didn't know what he was talking about. There was nothing in the install instructions talking about it and it was not on the parts break down manual I had on it either. I found out that there is suppose to be a .135" spacer that I was missing. PC offered to hook me up but I was in a hurry. Went to local farm fleet store and bought a washer .110" thick, installed between the head unit and pulley and wah-laa all quiet forever. Might check that out.

3) Has to be tune related. Mine drive absolutely like it did stock (better actually) at any speed.

Hope this helps!

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Thats really interesting about the space. I dont recall there being one at all so I will have to look.

Is it safe to run the standard bypass valve without a filter since is open during normal driving?

r1lovin said:

Is it safe to run the standard bypass valve without a filter since is open during normal driving?

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I don't think I would ..Last time I checked mine it was very dirty ....