Project 6: My 15 V6 project

zackmd1 said:

People universally pan the 4.6 but you would be surprised by the potential of the 4 valve with the proper setup. This engine is not your run of the mill 2v that was installed in every car imaginable...

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I have personally seen a 302" stroker 2V with Trick Flow heads and induction make a tick over 500 at the flywheel.....don't mind the 4.6 naysayers.

Cool project.

Interesting read to say the least... Hope to have my coyote crank by next week so I can take it to work and put it on the lathe to modify the snout!

http://www.modularfords.com/threads/234137-Coyote-Crank

Orginally posted by eschaider on Modular Fords...

"In the simplest of terms, and this one is going to be hard to swallow with all the Ford Coyote hype, the Modmotor head is the better design! Now for a n/a street engine our engine lacks VVT and that hurts low speed performance and also how broad a torque curve you can realize. Once you strap a blower on the whole world changes."

"The intake port in our heads is straighter, uses the same sized valves (or larger) and in ported form are infact superior to the Coyote port!!! Ford is not going to say this because the Coyote is the current corporate performance engine."

"The out of the box flow difference is because Ford offers the Coyote head with a better finished port compared to the out of the box Modmotor head offering. Once you port the Modmotor head the show is over! The longer valves and straighter ports always win"

Not trying to trash the coyote but just trying to put a few things in perspective... The 4.6 4 valve is not as inferior as some believe.

[MENTION=32538]zach[/MENTION]md1 On a side note - I see you replaced your struts / shocks with low mile PP units and you also installed the PP toe links and the PP front lower control arms.

Couple of questions:

Not counting the fact your struts / shocks likely needed replaced (you mentioned a leaking shock /strut) what's the ride quality like on the PP struts / shocks?

I know the PP toe links have a better bushing setup, but what about the PP lower control arms? What's the benefit there?

Reason I ask is I'm planning on stiffening up my '17 V6 a bit with OEM PP front sway and rear sway bars. If the ride still isn't where I want it, I'll be looking towards struts / shocks.

I can get brand new OEM PP Struts and shocks for @ $300.....

Thanks for the feedback.

ctandc72 said:

[MENTION=32538]zach[/MENTION]md1 On a side note - I see you replaced your struts / shocks with low mile PP units and you also installed the PP toe links and the PP front lower control arms.

Couple of questions:

Not counting the fact your struts / shocks likely needed replaced (you mentioned a leaking shock /strut) what's the ride quality like on the PP struts / shocks?

I know the PP toe links have a better bushing setup, but what about the PP lower control arms? What's the benefit there?

Reason I ask is I'm planning on stiffening up my '17 V6 a bit with OEM PP front sway and rear sway bars. If the ride still isn't where I want it, I'll be looking towards struts / shocks.

I can get brand new OEM PP Struts and shocks for @ $300.....

Thanks for the feedback.

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PP strut ride quality is excellent with the BMR performance springs. It is a bit more firm then stock but not harsh by any means. Responsiveness is greatly improved. It no longer has that floating feel that stock suspension had but rather reacts to the bumps quickly and remains composed throughout the whole event.

I upgraded to the PP control arms for two reasons. First reason was that I wanted to replace the ball joints and bearings in the front suspension. The second reason was that the rear front control arm is actually a pretty decent upgrade over stock. The rear front control arms feature spherical bearings and a all Forged construction over the stock control arms Forged/ welded steel tube construction. The result is a bit tighter steering feel and control.


Hope this helps and good luck on your build!

Well I heard back from my machinist. Block has to be bored unfortunately due to 3 cylinders being out of spec. Going .020" over which will put final displacement at 292ci or 4.8L. Ordered a set of Manley Flat Top Pistons as well so compression ratio should be at 11 to 1 when complete. Rotating assembly will consist of these Manley forged pistons, OEM 15 coyote connecting rods (good to 750-800hp), and an OEM coyote crankshaft. Whole package should be able to handle up to 700hp and 7000 RPM safely with 800hp not outside the realm of possibility.

Goal as stated is to have it NA during break in and to supercharge it down the road. I have been inspired by the 5.2 Predator so I might try and go for the inverted supercharger setup and go with a jaguar 5.0 twin screw supercharger (manufactured by Ford and should even have the bolt pattern for the OEM 5.0 throttle body) and a custom intercooler on top. End goal would be at least 550whp or whatever is achievable on 8-12psi.

zackmd1 said:

That it does! I made sure of that when I designed it for CD.

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I've been following your posts Zack and you've done loads for the community. Did you design the Carbon Dynamics spoiler? I've got the same one on my V6 and love it!!:cheers:

matteos said:

I've been following your posts Zack and you've done loads for the community. Did you design the Carbon Dynamics spoiler? I've got the same one on my V6 and love it!!:cheers:

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Glad you are enjoying it! Every spoiler CD offers I have either designed from scratch or modified OEM files to fit on various vehicles.

zackmd1 said:

Glad you are enjoying it! Every spoiler CD offers I have either designed from scratch or modified OEM files to fit on various vehicles.

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Mate. It looks boss. I'll upload pictures tomorrow. Good work!

Well the 6 is finally getting new rims! Went ahead and ordered the Ford Performance 19x9 EcoBoost PP style wheel kit including TMPS sensors. One of my original TPMS sensors failed Friday which prompted this purchase (on top of needing new tires to begin with). I purchased the sparkle silver kit and am planning on painting them dark graphite/stainless. Ford Performance has a dark stainless kit already but the price difference between the two is crazy! $278 vs $621 from where I purchased the kit. Going with 275/40s all round with 25mm spacers.

More engine parts came in as well! Mahle flat top hypereutectic pistions and stock 2015 coyote rods. Effective compression ratio will be 10.5:1. As stated before the block is being bored .020” over for a final displacement of about 4.7L. Close enough to be classified as a 289 in my book. No longer using the coyote crank but instead will be using the stock 4.6 crank.

What was cool about these connecting rods is that they come as a single solid part! A slight tap of a hammer causes them to fracture along the line machined from the factory.

Wheels installed! EB PP 19x9s repainted with “dark stainless” with 275/40s all round. Also have 25mm spacers installed. No rubbing!

Well guys it looks as though I am officially closing this project thread. Traded the 6 in today on a 2018 GT!

zackmd1 said:

Well guys it looks as though I am officially closing this project thread. Traded the 6 in today on a 2018 GT!

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Terrible joke...you are kidding...right?

Did you keep your new wheels at least? Car looks beautiful, glad to see you went with the right color choice!

jperls said:

Terrible joke...you are kidding...right?

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Haha not a joke. Couldn't shake wanting a V8! My 6 was a great car but was getting up there in milage so I decided to move up before it got to high.