Stereo Information (Wiring, Upgrades, etc...)

acull2000 said:

@mumbles ,

Can you help @Relak with a query? He is trying to de-pin the black C2470 connector to disable ANC&ESE in a GT350. He has removed those wires identified as ANC in your diagram but is still getting the noise.

He also has 2 wires coming out of pin 15 and two coming out of pin 16. Does your wiring diagram confirm whether these 4 wires are also ANC related on a GT350?

Thanks,

Adam

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Sorry for the delayed response... life intervened ;) Really, anything I say regarding a GT350 would be pure speculation, so I'm not sure I'll be of any help.

It has be noted in several places that there seem to be wiring differences between model years, so I would imagine that the same could be true between a GT & a GT350. From what I can tell, '15 & 16' seem to be the same for wiring although speaker impedence differences have been noted. The '17 seems to have some differences in wiring from the previous years.

Could I be any more vague? Sorry!

woofer196 said:

Hi Mumbles - You seem to know what you're talking about. I'm trying to replace the speakers in my 07 premium with the 9 speaker system. I'm trying to get higher fidelity sound out of the existing head unit/amp.

Would these Infinity speakers work?

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_108R6522EX/Infinity-Reference-REF-6522EX.html

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_108R3022CX/Infinity-Reference-REF-3022cfx.html

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_108K1011T/Infinity-Kappa-10-11t.html

Thanks!

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You have obviously NOT been talking to my wife

It would be better to go with a true 3-way set than trying to piece things together. The problem is that most 3-ways are quite expensive. In my opinion, CDT makes some dang good sounding speakers for a "reasonable" price. http://www.woofersetc.com/c-172-spe...ist&order=created_at&dir=desc&p=1&brand[]=153

You could also purchase raw drivers from PartsExpress or Madisound for substantially less. Be very careful with the dimensions, since these are typically designed for home speakers where speaker depth is not much of a concern. Dayton & Tang Band are a couple of brands that folks have had good luck with.

mumbles said:

You have obviously NOT been talking to my wife

It would be better to go with a true 3-way set than trying to piece things together. The problem is that most 3-ways are quite expensive. In my opinion, CDT makes some dang good sounding speakers for a "reasonable" price. http://www.woofersetc.com/c-172-spe...ist&order=created_at&dir=desc&p=1&brand[]=153

You could also purchase raw drivers from PartsExpress or Madisound for substantially less. Be very careful with the dimensions, since these are typically designed for home speakers where speaker depth is not much of a concern. Dayton & Tang Band are a couple of brands that folks have had good luck with.

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Thanks! Is a 3" or 4" speaker going to fit in the 3.5" spot?

woofer196 said:

Thanks! Is a 3" or 4" speaker going to fit in the 3.5" spot?

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You could probably get any of them to fit provided the overall depth isn't too much. I made a spacer out of a HDPE kitchen cutting board I picked up at WalMart... stuff is real easy to cut and shape.

mumbles said:

Ok folks, new diagram time...
This one shows how you would add aftermarket processors and amps by utilizing some connectors from Molex that just plug into the connectors at the factory amp. Racemaster did an awesome job using the 90 degree version of these plugs and enclosing them in a "project" box.

This diagram is pretty generic, so please remember that there are literally hundreds of ways this could be done... although I have shown the center channel speaker, it's just for reference and is not part of the amplified output.

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Hi Mumbles this looks like the perfect diagram for aftermarket equipment.

Would you happen to know what connector and pins are for the power feed to the factory amplifier in the diagram? I am thinking it can be used with a relay to create a 12V remote sensing wire or additionally use this 12V for the processor that can be mounted in place of the factory amplifier which can be taken out of the car completely.

I take it that one of these connectors carries the Power to the factory amplifier?

According to the wiring diagram it should be on pin 14 on brown C2385B. Color of the wire should be blue with a red stripe.

https://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/Wd/DownloadPdf?id=1167160#%5B%7B%22num%22%3A65%2C%22gen%22%3A0%7D%2C%7B%22name%22%3A%22XYZ%22%7D%2Cnull%2Cnull%2C0%5D

I have a GT PP and thought I could run a test by disconnecting the noise cancellation mic under my headliner and its not there. So can anyone confirm where the mic is located for our cars?

Also read some threads on this and it seems the only way to remove ANC is to cut the 6 wires going to the factory DSP/AMP in mumbles diagram above?

Forscan programming does not seem to work, according the threads I have read? I never used forscan but I am tempted to buy the module and give it a try. Is there a step by step guide on how to change to code that flattens the signal from the ACM and stops all the noise shaping?

I feel that there is no point in replacing speakers until the signal is sorted and the ANC is removed.

So removing the factory DSP/AMP completely should remove ANC and all other car audio warning signals etc will still function? Now the only remaining issue is how do you remove signal shaping that apparently is programmed in the ACM?

I can hear a big difference in bass response and volume between my sound system when the car is running vs when it is off and its not related to the external road/engine noise.

I am also reluctant to start cutting the 6 ANC wires just for a test run

There are no mics for noise cancellation as far as i know (and the GT doesn't have it at all, which is the reason why programming it out with forscan doesn't work for any GT).

Cathul said:

There are no mics for noise cancellation as far as i know (and the GT doesn't have it at all, which is the reason why programming it out with forscan doesn't work for any GT).

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OK, so have you noticed the sound, especially low frequency different when the engine is running? or is that the engine and exhaust noise is drowning out the frequencies?

No. Haven't experienced this. And i just came back from my car hifi installer which measured the output of the ACM after adjusting the equalization and he didn't notice this either.

Can anyone form their experience let me know if the signal from the ACM before the factory amplifier is a reasonable signal to run to a aftermarket amplifier or it absolutely needs to have all DSP removed using forscan?

Cathul said:

No. Haven't experienced this. And i just came back from my car hifi installer which measured the output of the ACM after adjusting the equalization and he didn't notice this either.

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Thanks...so can you explain what equalization adjustments you are talking about?

this is also I am trying to understand a bit more?

My understanding is that the ACM signal needs to be equalized by using forscan, as the signal is shaped to protect the rubbish factory speakers?

So much conflicting information with drips and drabs but nothing concrete in regards to this.

As far as i understood the ACM is doing some basic equalization. In my case some slight and steady bass boost at all volumes which, according to my car hifi installer is of no bigger concern. By disabling equalizing altogether the remaining thing as far as i know is some slight loudness in the low-level signal, i.e. you'll always have a slight bass attenuation at lower volumes. The rest is totally done in the DSP/amplifier in case of a premium package. The purpose of disabling the processing/equalization is to get a clean and flat signal as possible which leaves more processing power in the aftermarket DSP for your own processing of crossover points, time delay and equalizing for the specific speakers you want to use.

If you need to de-equalize the signal in the DSP, this takes ressources which are better spent on the processing to your liking.

Cathul said:

As far as i understood the ACM is doing some basic equalization. In my case some slight and steady bass boost at all volumes which, according to my car hifi installer is of no bigger concern. By disabling equalizing altogether the remaining thing as far as i know is some slight loudness in the low-level signal, i.e. you'll always have a slight bass attenuation at lower volumes. The rest is totally done in the DSP/amplifier in case of a premium package. The purpose of disabling the processing/equalization is to get a clean and flat signal as possible which leaves more processing power in the aftermarket DSP for your own processing of crossover points, time delay and equalizing for the specific speakers you want to use.

If you need to de-equalize the signal in the DSP, this takes ressources which are better spent on the processing to your liking.

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Thanks, so it sounds like the consensus is:

1. The GT does not have noise cancellation which can interfere with the Audio
2. If you rip out the factory amplifier and replace it with a aftermarket amp by tapping into the low level pre amp outputs you are sorted
3. no need to use forscan