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I get a lot of people flashing their brights at me when I am on dim. I wonder how they feel when I flash them back?

Don't be fooled. There are some tiny amps that can put out insane amounts of power. While I doubt OEM automakers are using them, I have seen micro amplifiers for motorcycles that easily sustain 120 watts RMS per channel. Then there are the GaN FET amplifiers that pack some power for their...

I owned a 2012 WRX and a 2019 WRX. I replaced the base system in the 2012 with some JL Audio C5-650 components in the doors and used a single Digital Designs 1508 in the trunk. That was a VAST improvement over stock. The 2012 came with the Harmon Kardon system, so I just added a pair of...

I was going to joke with the OP and say that he has never owned a Subaru if he thinks the Mustang system is the worst he has ever heard, lol. I'm about to obtain some Stereo Integrity TM-65 MK2s and thinking about a set of SB Acoustics SB Acoustics SB26STCN-C000-4 tweeters to go into some...

I may catch flack for this, but I heard the Powerbass components in other Ford vehicles, and IMHO, they are not that good to begin with. Now, a bad factory eq curve combined with those speakers would be a disaster.

I was always a Viper or Clifford Matrix type of person, but the interface modules can get expensive to add one of those alarms to a modern day vehicle. In fact, I no longer have the ability to look up just what modules are needed. Grr...

All of the wire that I currently have is Kicker, Stinger, and Knu, all are copper! I used CCA in ONE install and regretted it due to voltage and heat issues. In the beginning it was fine but I think the corrosion at the termination points increased resistance over time. It has been a while...

You are correct. That MMATS HIFI-6150d is very efficient and I rarely saw it pull more than 50 amps when beating the hell out of it on music. I was shocked at how little current it drew at high volume, expecting it to peak out at much more. Conversely, I once had a Lunar L2200 that would...

Oh, I'm throwing a 200 A alternator in there too and still have an IOTA DLS-55 to handle additional charging duties, but unlike the past, I drive the Mustang daily. I may just upgrade the alternator and battery, run 1/0, then call it a day. I used that RV power supply with the built in smart...

Now I'm starting to wonder if I should just do 4 gauge and if I need bigger, snag an isolator or separator and just drop another battery in the trunk? 4 gauge should be adequate to charge it, then I will have a battery closer to the amplifier(s).

I'm getting conflicting rumors from my car audio friends regarding the S550 and running 1/0. One told me not to do it and the other told me it is just as easy as the S197 was. So my question to you is, is this easy or hard? If I go with my current setup, a MMATS-HIFI6150d, I could get by with...