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yeah, seems much easier. hopefully i can get out of here and to somewhere where winter storage isn’t even on my mind.

this is an option, yeah, would it be worth hooking everything back up to do this though? what benefit would it bring now that the battery’s already been out

cable on my tender isn’t very long and even if the car were pulled in vs backed in i’m still fairly certain it wouldn’t reach since the battery is towards the back of the bay and the outlet is a decent ways away against the wall. i’d also have to plug out and relocate the security camera in there

please use ur brain homie, there is only one logical meaning to that

IL cold, so pretty similar. i might be able to solve the outlet problem if i flipped the car around 180 degrees, but even then im uncertain.

source for the cold part? i’ve heard they discharge faster, recharge slower, and are much weaker in the cold as well. unless i’ve been told wrong, i always thought it was better to take them to a warm spot for the winter

yeah i need to pick one up. i’ve been meaning to, just never get around to it

i have one, which is why i took the battery out. i don’t have a heated garage nor do i have an outlet in a convenient spot, plus i’ve heard the cold damages the battery. so i take it out and bring it in for charging.

yeah that’s what i just ended up doing. sucked because i took the battery through the garage door and all the way up to the second floor and hooked it up to the tender just to realize i screwed up

hey folks, i took out my battery for winter storage, opened my door to put some dryer sheets on the inside, only to realize that the windows don’t automatically roll themselves down anymore since the battery is out, meaning the door can’t close. any solution or do i have to take the battery out...

keep it on low for sure. you can use more than you would think, at least in my experience. but i’m also very paint-conscious so i was hesitant at first, but that stuff needs to be pretty warm. i used masking tape above and below the spoiler as well for a little extra protection overall - good...

recently removed the spoiler on my ‘23 to install the gt500 wing and gurney flap. definitely get yourself a heat gun or a hair dryer even, it’s worth the money. i don’t think i could’ve done it without those. once hot, some fishing line sliced right through the tape. also helped with residue...

Highland green is awesome!! - coming from an eruption green owner 🙂 love me a good Bullitt. Stay safe out there!!

i’m replacing it with the gt500 gurney flap which i absolutely love the look of, so either way i’d be taking the stock one off or drilling into the trunk, neither of which gets me jumping for joy lol. i did also buy a lot car

stuff looks legit, great reviews on amazon. definitely gonna pick some up. thanks, big help :sunglasses:

awesome thanks! are the plastic razors what you used to scrape the leftover adhesive directly off the paint? apparently they’re safe on car paint which is hard to believe considering it’s just cheap plastic

plastic razor blades is a really smart idea i’ll pick some of those up before going at it. i’m not super confident in using adhesive removers on my paint so i might try quick detailer and combine that with some heat and see how it goes

yes that’s me with the green one 🙂 good memory, i think i’ll refrain from letting my nerves get the best of me and give it a shot anyway

i’ve seen a couple threads and YT videos on how to actually remove the oem spoiler, some people use heat and fishing line, i’ve seen pry tools (and then say the trunk got dented) i’ve seen some people use the eraser wheel, etc. i want to know what the method is that will keep the paint the...

are xforce headers a good product? if so, they're apparently only $500 on american muscle right now - looks like theres 2 listings of the same product though (one and two)