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It's always a compromise, More caster also means more weight jacking but with macpherson strut suspension you also get more camber gain. For the Mustang the camber gain outweighs the weight jacking imo

Cold tire temps: 32 front, 30 rear Conti Extremes

had to click on the link discussing cheap coilovers and was not disappointed :cwl:

A good rule is that different manufacturer pads will not be compatible in the scenario described. Some simple green and scotch-brite type pad should be good to clean the rotors. Is this totally necessary? Maybe not in this case but is still probably a good idea. Cleaning will optimize the brake...

General rule for most linear rate on the bar, you want the sway bar endlink in the most vertical position.

Maybe? Ford -W707108-S439 Bolt https://www.fordpartsgiant.com/parts-list/2015-ford-mustang/chassis/brake_and_clutch_controls.html

What are you planning on covering and what is your experience with ppf? Minimal experience; bulk rocker panel/flat surface install would be fine. Hoods, bumpers or any large panels would not be suggested. Do you plan on cutting film on the panel or wrapping edges? Both are tricky. Even wrapping...

Call Continental. They have even applied rebates on purchases made a few days after the deal expired.

West Coast Wheel(LMR sells these) has sets with each lug nut being a splined lock. They offer both standard length and 2" which can work with extended studs(depends on stud length of course). The 2" works for my setup.

Box end to break it loose, ratcheting wrench to remove. I was able to get 1 hand on the side of the transmission and the other from around the driveshaft. No issues completely removing the bolt or with the install.

This comes to mind for diy https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/free-front-swaybar-mod.22411/

Suspension upgrades are subjective to a point so you'll get lots of answers and opinions. It's also a black hole for upgrades. Tons of good threads here so suggest searching for a bit too. Here's my input: Ford Racing track dampers, BMR handling springs - not a fan of progressive springs but...

You stated this is your DD, do you plan to canyon carve, autoX, track days? Are you looking for the best bang for the buck upgrades or bling?

There's a good graphic in this thread: https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/why-adjustable-end-links.48254/

Most people use 32mm for the rear. It works but an 1-1/4 is a much better fit. Most people use 36mm for the front. It works but a 35mm is a much better fit. A deep socket is your best bet. Some shallow will work but it depends on the brand.

Although not a direct answer to your question; These look to be vacuum formed out of ABS which is most likely what most of these types of products will be. Depending on how bad the corners stick up either heating the part to fit better or using an adhesive promoter can solve fitment issues.

I've ordered from them over the years for several different vehicles; suspension and brake parts. Have always had a good experience and would/will buy from them again.

When the rear wheel bearing assemblies were replaced was the most recently updated nut used? There are several threads discussing the torque for the nut as well. May want to re-check the torque on the nut. What you are describing can be caused by loose rear hubs.

hahaha, wow, forest for the trees. Dang, I need some sleep. That was quite an exercise in stupidity. Thanks for pointing that out