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Didnt care for the color at first, but it grew on me....

Interesting set up. Do you catch anything from the CR Spotless resins?

Dr Norts is right, DI washing isnt cheap but at least for me here in AZ where our water is some of the hardest and dries quickly- its a must if you dont want water spots. I have the DI-120 by CR Spotless and only use it for final rinse and with a pressure washer to conserve the resin. CR...

I had the same problem. My kit actually came with the K061025- which in my opinion was ridiculously too short. After contacting Whipple, they sent me the the K061031 and I installed it. I would recommend using a long pipe on the backside of your breaker bar/ratchet for leverage on the tensioner...

@BMR Tech - sent you a PM

Upgrading my fronts and rears are next on my list along with installing an amp to power them. Currently I am running a stock setup for fronts and rears with a JL 12” W3 powered by a JL 500 Slash. All boom and not very balanced.

I was able to undermount the speaker. It was a pain in the ass and took some modification to the panel as @catchthecarp stated- but it will fit. I used the factory nut clips on the Polk speaker in order to use the factory screws for mounting. When I did this, the speaker would not fully center...

I have a non PP and mounted my speaker today on top of the panel- just like the pic above. I used a dremel to widen out the speaker hole to make it sit flusher on the panel however the grill doesnt fit right. The tweeter is hitting the grill. Does anyone have any pics on what grill modification...

@Gee Awesome install! Looks super clean. I like your catch can- who is it made by?

About the 10’oclock position. I measured the gap between the tensioner arm back and the stop and it has a 5/16” gap when cold.

Update: Went on my first test drive today. The belt did stretch a little. With the adjustable idler pulley still at the max position towards the passenger side and T-nut per the instructions, I would say I am about 80% now. I was suprised how quiet this set up is!

Received the K061031 from Whipple and installed it. With the adjustable idler pulley at the max position to the passenger side, my auto tensioner is about 90%. I ordered the 106” but contemplating whether to install this. @Bbarfoot14 It is definitely frustrating to hear these contradictions...

@Gee I read your above post where with the correct belt, you are at 90% on the adjustable idler and your tensior is at 10’oclock. Would you say you are within the 75-80% of the tensioner’s travel like the manual states? The reason Im asking is because Im trying to determine whether I should max...

I called whipple support and they confirmed the K061025 (102”) is the wrong belt that was shipped out. They are sending me a 103.1” belt. I’ll let you know what the part number is when I get it and if it fits correctly.

@Bbarfoot14 What is the part number for the gates 106” belt that everyone is recommending? My kit came with gates K061025 and I can barely get this belt on and when I do, the tensioner is maxed out against the stop and the idler pully is maxed out to the passenger side. Has anybody spoke to...

Yup, saw that and thats what Im going to do. Was just seeing if anyone out there had any other ideas.

I bought a set of Long Ball Hex Bit Sockets to torque the manifold as mentioned above but I cannot get to the bolts underneath the fuel rail. I tried at different angles but I either start to round out the bolts or grind up against the fuel rail. Im also attempting to do this without the super...

Has anyone had any luck successfully touching up a scratch or chip on Guard? I tried the Ford touch up paint and it is lighter in color and stands out. Was thinking of Dr Colorchip but wanted to get some input from others who have tried it on this difficult color.