I went with the OPG’s while I was doing it. Also added Viking shocks to the rear and lowering springs. A cradle lockout kit and a converter. For fuel I did 1050x injectors and a boost a pump. A torque converter is almost a must unless you don’t care about getting out of the hole. My converter...
Wow, this thread was revived since before I was a member and owned my car. That said, Hellion guy here and would never go supercharged over turbo on this platform. There are plenty of fast cars using both but boost at the push of a button is just great all around.
Yeah, the 3b makes sense, I’m on a 1b. I already talked to the guys at Circle D, they agreed the converter is too tight. I’m going to take it back out after my event next weekend and send it back to get restalled with a #3 rotor.
Thanks for the reply. I think my converter may just be too tight. I can 60ft 1.7-1.9 foot braking. I’m at the track tonight and just did 2 passes, set the 2-step at 2400 and went 1.9 60 ft and 2600 went 1.88 60 ft but it was starting to push at that rpm. Car is doing 134-137 up top...
Hello all,
Just curious what you all picked up going 2 step vs foot braking at the track? Most interested in turbo but all boosted applications are relevant. My converter is a bit tighter then I hoped but hoping the 2 step will help build some boost at the line and shave a couple 10ths. Love to...
I think you may be over estimating the power of the stock motor at the low rpm the stock converter allows. I ran mine stock and was surprised I could not get the tires to spin off the line, even on stock 235’s. It actually left harder off idle then flashing the converter. These stock converters...
Anything less than an R compound tire at the strip with that much power is useless. You could work on easing the clutch out and get some sub 2.0 60fts but it will never be able to hook like it should.
Only had the car to the track for a handful of passes. Still need to get the car launching harder. Car goes mid 10’s@136mph at 7000’+ DA on a 1.9 60ft. 20” Toyo R888 leaving with no boost, 4050lbs with driver. Has a bunch more in it once I get it launching. Shifts are 7300-7600 rpm.
Not a happy...
I would think almost anyone would be qualified to answer. If you baby it and stay out of high boost or high load it will last a bit. If you are asking can the factory clutch hold twice the factory HP and torque that’s a pretty obvious no. If you are spending this kind of money on a kit...
Haven’t put enough consistent miles on mine to say, but like many are saying I haven’t really checked since putting on the Turbo’s. I generally throw Torco in there as well, so not getting into boost just always seems like a waste to me. it’s going to vary greatly depending on how much time you...
I am auto and have the BMR anti hop stuff. I was at 4000DA but putting 820hp corrected to the pavement and they work great. You won’t be disappointed. I run the Vikings on my 03 Cobra and 07 Z06 as well, I swear by them. One of the best all around mods I’ve made.
It
It’s great, once you have adjustable shocks there is no way to go back. I run them full loose at the track up front but can stiffen them for the road and tighten them up further for Autocross. I’m running Eibach springs. I love the Viking double adjustable but the Koni’s up front are way...
I’ll have to log it once the warm weather breaks. Tuned by Palm Beach. Sent them an email with my shift thoughts and told them I was running in sport, they said it’s tuned to race in drive. I’m going to try that out and see if it makes the difference I’m looking for. I went 10.5@135 on 12 lbs at...