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I had great success and no issues with Alex from Stratified Tuning, at Stratified Automotive Controls.

Stratified Tuning has it for the Ecoboost Mustang, but they only offer a custom tune for the Ecoboost Mustang. I have the tune from Stratified, (love the tune) with the Crackles and Pops. I love it, sounds very organic, never the same every time you lift of the pedal. So never gets boring...

It looks like you have a GT! (and a boring auto) You are posting in the Ecoboost forum, and not to many Ecoboost running full e85. Many extra parts needed to do that with the ecoboost, unlike the GT that just needs a tune.

LKQ sales motors on ebay for a few grand. Thats the route I would go if I was in your shoes, but I would do the work myself also in my driveway. Swap the motors, pretty simple plug and play, and if it were me, switch to a Cobb AP, and get a better tune from a different tuner.

Are you going to do a write up in this on the build section, very interested in the part selection and any odd parts needed to do this. I was thinking of just buying from LKQ a 2.3 and a 2.0 out of a Fiesta or Focus ST, and building in my garage taking my time before swapping.

The snapshot of the AP is not going to tell you anything as it will only show the max positive/negative range. You can not tell when you hit that negative number, where you wide open throttle, or did you hit a huge bump in the road that set off the knock sensor which would then pull timing...

Just curious on how you clean yours and how often? Thanks

Charge Air Temp Actual A/F Ratio Boost Pressure Ign Correction Cyl 1 and 3 Coolant Temp or OAR learn for the last spot

Have you updated your AP with the latest software from like a month ago or 2 ago? Also you have really high positive ign corrections on cyl 2 and 3, which seems very odd to me, now I am no expert at reading logs and just send them back to my tuner for revisions, but I always look at them to try...

Yes I agree all those YouTube videos are cars with a Sequential Gearbox, and they all have a clutch pedal to leave from a stop. Which is what all road race cars use now a days, and motorcycles have always used. None have a torque converter. The only place a torque converter is used in racing...

When I first installed mine, I did notice just a slight oil film at the back of the engine cover. I cleaned it all up. Then I loosened the hose clamp and the tightend it back up as tight as I could. No more oil film in the last 3000 miles.

I think everyone is missing the point, an automatic on a road course would be super boring! Who would want to do that to themselves.

Its the same part for 15-18. If you want the sound, just unclamp the rubber hose from the bypass valve and let it vent to atmosphere. But make sure to close that open hose as it is going to the stock intake tube. I used a rubber expansion freeze plug that I had in my tool box, with the stock...

I think the same way, I have owned a many a turbo 4 car form many different makes while living here in the US, and owning many a turbo 4 while living in the UK, most of them imported used from Japan to the UK. Every one I had was already modified or I modified it myself, and all of them had...

Not sure to be honest, I ordered the DVCC from CJ Pony, and then ordered at a later date the 100 psi CV from Tune Plus. Which was a easy swap.

Draining it is easy, a square plug at the bottom of catch can, that a open ended 10mm wrench works fine to loosen. Installing the whole system is fairly easy also. UPR has a few videos on YouTube of install. Tune + has a video of install also, which I found to be the most informative. But I...

Glad I could help, and just by chance I emptied it today, after 2000 miles. Maybe 3 or 4 ounces, check out the picture, and I’m glad that this fluid does not go into the intake. I’ve let it sit in the past to see if it would separate over a few days, and never does, looks and smells like pure...

This is what I get every 2000 miles, about 4 ounces or so. Have let it sit for a few days and it does not separate. Personally I’m glad this stuff is not going into my intake.

I have the Ford Performance GT 350 strut brace installed. The only issue is that you cannot unplug the top hose from the catch can as there is only a 1/4 of space between the connector and the bottom of the brave. So nothing touches or rubs on my set up. Not sure but the stock one looks...

I installed my Cobb full turbo back exhaust in my driveway by myself and only using wheel ramps and jack stands. Getting the rear catback off solo is way harder than getting the down pipe off. Put some never seize on those turbo studs incase you want to take it off years down the road.