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No joke. It's "How much can you make?" but also "How many times can you make it?" That's an efficient way to install block windows.

I have an FTI 3800 stall for my D1-X setup, but don't have it installed yet. Just to give you something else to consider, there was a lot of praise for FTI when I was looking for options.

I have seen his recommendations in several places in threads and videos, recipes for 1.2 60' times, etc. Is that what you mean?

Also, someone asked about times, so far we've been 7.01 @ 105+ in the 1/8. That's with a 1.75 60' and shifting at 6800. We were trying to get the trans gremlins worked out to shift around 7400 last time out but couldn't solve it that night. I hope to get back to the track (and 1/4 mile this...

This is mostly about balancing current needs and future plans. I realize most of this is overkill at current power levels (still crazy we can talk like that about 800whp), but someday car will have built motor and who knows how much more boost. Once I get done with my current list, I think the...

Yes it's in my garage and the car interior is gutted. That's where it sits. Along with not having a lot of free time to work on it, I also got side-tracked because I needed to drop the IRS cradle anyway, I figured the installation of the rear bars through the trunk floor would be much easier...

Sorry for the old post, but I am looking for an answer to the OP. I want to run Weld 15" RTS bead lock wheels with long studs/open lug nuts and I am wondering what people are using. At this point there are good ARP options for both 1/2"-20 and M14 studs, so I guess I will make that call based on...

Maybe just weld everything together? :like: OK, thanks guys. You are confirming what I was thinking. I'll stick with the sufficiently-awesome CB005 that is already working.

Current setup: 2015 A6 3.55 ProCharger car, 802whp Rear of car: Weld 17x10 w/ MT ET Street S/S BMR CB005 Steeda Diff Inserts (black, standard bolts) BMR Spherical Vert Links Viking Crusaders (newer ones with the top "T" bracket) BMR drag springs The car is actually behaving really well as is...

Ha! I have the same, so that's good to hear they will clear. I agree with you...believe it or not I thought the cat back was the biggest PITA of the whole header/exhaust install.

You're spot on, I am indeed in KC. I see you have cat deletes, so this question doesn't apply directly, but do you happen to know if the trans will come down with longtubes in place? I thought I have seen somewhere that on the coyote the headers don't interfere with the bellhousing, but a local...

Jay-rod, where in KS? Thanks to both of you for the encouragement. I'm looking at some of the low profile trans jacks from HF to help out. I've also got DS, axles, and some rear suspension stuff to do, so I may as well drop the trans if it's not a big thing.

This probably amounts to a silly question, but has anyone here dropped a 6R80 without a lift? I am installing a converter, so wouldn't necessarily need to drag it out from under the car as long as there was enough room and it was manageable to just get it down. I have done this a few times in...

Yeah, the owner of the 1/8 track where I was basically told me to go get a bolt-in bar when he told me I had to have one. I am not worried about that track; I think any bar is a good bar there. It's a very small town, etc. I am more concerned with some of the bigger tracks around that are 1/4...

My bad. I was talking about CM tubing. Is yours mild steel/DOM? I think they use 1.75 in MS but not CM.

If it's a Watson then it's 1.625" tubing. That's what Watson told me, anyway. I also got the same RaceQuip harness and the UPR bracket in this week! It looks to be a pretty easy setup, even with a stock seat. Roll bar should be here today.

Another vote for breathers here. My regulator is on the inner fender, just forward of the strut tower. I like it here because it's a little more tucked out of the way vs. on the tower. Worked well so far.

Yes, correct. Watson uses 1.625 for their cages, and it doesn't make sense for them to stock 1.75" material (and tooling) just for this one application. A salesman might tell you that because it's 1.625, the 6-point bar could be turned into a cage one day. Maybe that is technically correct...

I found out today that the Watson 6-point bolt-in roll bar is indeed made from 1.625" x 0.083 CM tubing. This does not meet NHRA requirements in a bolt-in application. According to Watson, it does meet the rules if it's welded in. I'm not sure I fully agree with that last part yet, but that's...

Yep, agreed. Once anything is modified that exemption is gone. Isn't it a 5-pt minimum, though? (Roll bar with at least a driver door bar) One more thing...does anyone know for sure what size tubing the Watson 6pt CM bar uses? When I read the NHRA rules section 4:10, it seems like 1.75" OD x...