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For a track car, I would highly recommend a GT350 / R. As mentioned, the Voodoo isn't a stop light drag car and if that's your primary goal - then I would look elsewhere. If you are looking for a special car and one of the best driving experiences - you can't go wrong with a GT350. For down...

If you keep your base GT350, I'd get the GT500 in addition to it. Don't see the point in having 2 of the same vehicle (R and base). Not a fan of the GT500's lack of manual transmission and don't see buying one for that reason alone. My weekend fun and track cars are manuals. My daily drivers...

I'm getting ready to pull the trigger on a set of 2019 rotors. Received a quote for $1042 with tax, but need to add shipping costs. Anyone have a better price?

305's on all corners (MP4S) on CF wheels

So, with that logic I shouldn't change my oil at 6k miles (my car is a 2016 & mostly track miles) since it doesn't have 10k miles yet?

Frank @ Spyder Comosites repaired my CF wheel also. Pricy fix, but cheaper than a replacement. I still run my CF wheels on track as my rain set up on MP4S tires.

I track both sets of wheels... (One has Cup 2's and the other MP4S). There is a reason why I have my MP4S tires on the CF wheels. Just look up some of the threads I started re: wheel failures.

The Carbon Fiber wheels and spoiler retail for more than $15k-$20k (at least 2 years ago they did). The brakes are the same, just different color. Drive them both and you tell me. From experience, the R feels like a different car. It feels more connected and 500 lbs lighter. The CF wheels...

I'm not Tomster, but the looks, red accents, spoiler, red brakes, carbon wheels, exclusivity were all worth the price of admission. I bought my car to track, specifically because it had less power/ torque, magnetic ride, more forgiving and less expensive than my Gen 5 Viper. Frankly, a...

I check mine every fill up and change my oil after every track day (once every 30 to 60 days). Don't go over 4-5 k rpm until the oil temp is at 150 to 200. No oil consumption and 5k+ miles - mostly track miles. Hope your dealer takes care of you and you get back on the road soon!

I went with the Watson since the red matched the R accents. The cost was significantly less than the Cooletch (at the time) and the CMS wasn't available yet. I'm 6' and don't have any issues with seat travel OR recline with the bar in. I tend to drive all my manual vehicles in a more "race"...

I'm speaking from experience, if you don't want to wait for point bys, then run in groups that have super advanced groups where point bys are optional. I've run with half million dollar cars... including Ford GTs.

Thanks for posting the video! As far as not getting a point by, just run in the super advanced groups where point bys are optional. Easy solution!

I wouldn't for a street car, unless the rotors are significantly worn (per caliper measurements). Ford will most likely recommend new rotors.

Good luck in selling Tomster!

I do like the exposed CF wheels, spoiler, CF driveshaft, etc... but I don't think the new GT500 is a better looking car than the R. Call me shallow - looks are important. I also don't care for the knob shifter - my wife's old Durango R/T had one. You get used to it, but it's a bad design...

I think those numbers were real, but Ford is scrambling to increase the HP IMHO.

Seems like a majority of folks are not interested in the GT500... I'm not surprised, I was disappointed in the reveal. I never considered trading in my R for one (no manual), but I could potentially see making it my new daily driver and retiring the Sublime Hellcat. I'd have to have Grabber...

I have a hard time believing the GT500 runs 10.6 on street tires. Negative DA under sea level I can see a 10.9 A bone stock Hellcat A8 runs 10.8 on drag radials, a Red Eye on DR's has run 10.5 I haven't read all the responses, but I'm disappointed, but not surprised. Look how long Ford has...

Thanks for the info! I've done this on other vehicles and sounds identical to what I've done on others.