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Just moved to Chicago and looking for a reputable shop for my 2016 Mustang GT PP. Immediate need is suspension work - new shocks and struts. City, North, or Northwest suburbs are ideal, but I'm open to other areas. Any recommendations would be appreciated.

DM me your email and I’ll send details on my experience if you want. How do you like the 350?

Complete Automotive and Custom Exhaust in St. Peter’s does great work, especially if welding. Don’t know anything about Habibi, but buyer’s beware with Craven.

Going from aftermarket adjustable toe rods and vertical links back to stock. Except I lost the original ones in a move and had to order new ones from Ford. I'm a novice but do like to wrench on this car. Any thoughts on greasing the toe rods or vertical links anywhere before installing, or...

Car: 2016 GTPP Manual, 33,900 miles Took car in for oil and filter change because dealer gave me a few free ones when I bought the car, and the dealer hands me a list of "Recommended Maintenance Items that include the following: Engine/Compression Performance Restoration Service - $70 Fuel...

In for Group Buy That's two.

Anyone in the St. Louis, MO area done one of the power packs yet (PP1, PP, PP3)? If so, who did you use for install?

In for a group buy!

Oil Separator and 1/2 mile expectations. I'm taking the plunge on PP2. Two questions: 1. I understand that an oil separator helps with potential pinging issues but is a tight fit unless you get the updated version. Anyone have a link to the updated version or part number? 2. I do a few...

Heat it up with a hair dryer. Loosens the glue and will peel right off.

On a GT, what type of rwhp gains are to be expected out of a Lund tune with a CAI and catback? I couldn't find one, but feel free to point me to an existing thread. Thanks.

So after reading the mess of a thread that is BMR vs. Steeda, it confirmed my thoughts to go with your stop the hop kit. Can you send me a discount code please? Thanks.

I had to use two people on this part. Have someone, they don't have to be big or that strong, get inside the car and push down on the shifter/drive shaft from inside the car while you pull down. That gave me the leverage to get it down far enough without trying to go sideways. DM me if you...

Check your lug nuts. Torque to 148lbs has taken away the screech for me and others on here.

I apologize if it has been asked already - couldn't find it in the thread if it has. Can I drive around while updating?

Currently running an x-pipe/res delete with the stock mufflers. I know the extreme is another story, but is there a noticeable difference in loudness between my current setup and the Corsa sport catback? Wondering if it's worth spending the money to make the change.

Driversound, have someone push down on the shifter from inside the car while you pull down from under the car. Should give you the extra clearance you need. When putting the bolt back in that person can push down directly on the drive shaft.

I posted something on that recently and was able to resolve my heat issue. http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=62534

Was all set to try the RTV idea over the weekend but, after taking the center console out and trying to remove the shifter (I installed MGW shifter last week), I figured out why the dust boot wasn't making a good seal. The sealing edge was twisted and had rolled over allowing hot air to come...

Has anyone, especially those with MGW shifter, experienced excessive heat in center console around shifter, hand brake and/or cup holders AND tried to use black heat resistant RTV to create a seal between the rubber dust boot and shifter hole as a solution? I think hot air is entering the car...