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Most likely, if they had put the wing any higher they would have to have a front splitter so low as to be completely impractical on the street in order to balance the aero.

Multimatic vent, mounted on spare, stock hood. The FP350S vent may be available soon from FP or Watson and will likely be cheaper than this $$$ piece. The GT500 test cars running around seem to have the derivative of the GT4 unit, except there is a strengthening piece running down the...

You mean like this: 20180901_191722[1] by bpracer posted Sep 8, 2018 at 11:53 PM

GT4 Vent

Replaced, but not blown... My 2016 had 9000 miles, had been making a noise like an idler pulley bearing going bad, for nearly a year. It would take about 30 min for the noise to present itself @2000rpm. The dealer could not reproduce the issue a year ago. The engine also burned about 1 qt per...

I have a blank trunk lid awaiting a new wing. Hoping an aftermarket GT4/GT500 wing will be out at $2k price point rather than $12k. I can hope...

Worked for me! He forgot to mention you need a telescoping magnet for when you drop the roll pin down the transmission tunnel... You can buy gray "cord weatherstrip" MD brand pn# 71548 at Lowes for $5 if you don't want to spend $20 for the 3M stuff. You will have enough to do every GT350...

That car is being re-born as a new body-in-white, full Watson cage, dedicated race car. It's actually quite bad a**.

I have the same issue, I wasn't sure that the rubber stems have the same sensor. I have both setups as I chickened out trying replacing the rubber coated brass stems (they are not just rubber) with the Dill stems and got the Tire Rack sourced ones. The Dill stems are aluminum not steel as...

The studs will all fit whatever GT350 or S550 hub you have, but the R front stud is longer than any aftermarket piece out there. The R hub comes with the studs installed. As JAJ provided some of the info for this chart, he has first hand experience with this.

Ha, that's my chart. Just buy the hubs, don't bother with just the studs from Ford. I believe they are kinda' pricey individually. HUB-299 is the replacement R front hub HUB-308 is the replacement R rear hub

Never heard of that before, care to explain the impact?

I was the exact opposite, I built a brake pedal spacer underneath my SRP pedal cover. I found under very hard braking after heel and toe downshifting that I was pressing the gas with the brake. The SRP covers replace the clutch and brake covers but apply over the stock gas pedal, so it changes...

The gas does go fast, but no the car was basically on "E". I was chasing a couple Ford engineers in an R running around Hallett this time last year the day before the Mid-America Ford meet. Years ago my 84 Turbo T-bird was horrible about fuel starving at 1/4 tank just turning left through an...

I've run my car down to the point where it said I had "10 miles to empty" while at the track with no issues.

I sent the OP an IM about where I got this info. Another forum stated the R needed longer studs than the "long" ARP 100-7733 studs in the front. The long studs would work on the rear but not the front. At one time ARP stated the short studs were "R" length, but now they show .5" and 1"...

Going by some other info I had, it seemed like the rear studs are 8mm longer. The R has a different part number for the rear hub, "HUB-308". UHL of R studs is 3.75" and 2.75" posted by an R owner in another forum.

Many "Racing" oils are not compatible with your catalytic converter. They contain additives that will shorten its life.

While that is true. if they were made out of stouter steel, they would have to be more visually shorter. I'm just saying if you're looking for something stiffer than the R springs (which I have) for a car running slicks or stickier tires than SC2s then these probably aren't going to do you...

The fronts are going to be the same rate as the "R" spring since the wire diameter and the number of coils is the same. The free length must be shorter to make the difference, but they sure look similar in the picture.