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It's a pig to drive when it's cold, the hood prop-rod straight from an 80s Lada, the pain of trying to get the oil dipstick in and out when you have the strut-tower brace.

The buttons might be issuing CAN messages you could listen for, would be simpler than trying to intercept the physical wiring.

There's two common attacks - first is a relay attack where they man-in-the middle your keyless entry fob by using an software defined radio to extend the range your car will talk to your fob, so from the car's perspective it looks like the fob is at the car, when in reality, it's inside your...

17 GT with a tick - dealership put in a new shortblock, no more tick, for now..

Dealership had my cars for a few days, they gave the car back to me whilst they "talk to Ford" to decide if it's normal or not..

Dealership was blaming tick on the valve in my AWE switchpath exhaust, so I put an FRPP Touring catback on there. Still ticks, heh. Going back to the dealership as soon as schedule allows.

With "chassis ears" apparently. That said, same set of chassis ears told them it was my rear axle thrust washers on their first attempt, so I'm not convinced.

It's a catback, it's an AWE switchpath with a valve in the H-pipe. They think the valve is rattling and that's causing the noise I'm hearing. It probably is a bit, but it's a very different noise to what I'm hearing from what seems like the engine. Switching the exhaust for a stock one will tell...

Update: new intake manifold installed, my misfire is gone, but it's still ticking loud as ever! They're now blaming it on my after-market exhaust, despite it being a cat-back, heh. Going to stick a stock one on there and go back to the dealership when I get some time.

Mine is still at the shop. I've been dealing with a cylinder 8 misfire and associated CEL in addition to the ticking. Performance shop was dealing with Ford Performance ( I have the PP2 installed ) for the misfire, Ford dealership was dealing with the ticking. They're across the road from each...

Mine generally doesn't tick when idle, only when under load at ~2K RPM

My dealership first said it was my rear axle thrust washers, which they replaced, now they're claiming it's my after-market exhaust, sigh. That's what their "chassis ears" are telling them. Next step is put back on a stock exhaust and let them have at it again.

Have the car being looked at now at Galpin. First time around they "couldn't reproduce", so I drove the service adviser around with the windows down past some parked cars / walls so there was reflected sound, and he heard it plain as day. Also have a misfire code on cylinder 8, not sure if...

Still no joy with the tick. Took it to where I got my PP2 installed, there was an ECU update for the PP2 that apparently addressed ticks, so I had that installed, but it's still ticking, wee. At this point I'm just going to live with it and see if the engine grenades.

The service adviser in Santa Monica Ford just called me, he claims a multiple-cylinder misfire was because "we had to disconnect the battery and it takes a while for the ECU to settle". I laughed. I'm going to take it to a different dealership. It's a pity, sales-wise Santa Monica Ford are...

Santa Monica Ford had my car for a week - according to the paperwork I got, the tech dropped the trans and looked at the clutch, and that's it. I get the car a few blocks down the road and I get severe misfiring and a flashing check-engine light(!), so I limp it back to the dealership. Either...

Just dropped my '17 GT / PP2 off at Santa Monica Ford for diagnosis of tick, will report back.

Running a PP2 with an AWE switchpath catback, no issues.

Happy to report that after a new actuation motor my switch-path is A-OK. It's a louder than I expected ( louder, say, than a Ford Racing Touring catback ), but I've gotten used to it. Think of the remote as a "loud and louder" switch as opposed to a "quiet and loud" switch. Looks great, sounds...

I'd prefer to be on the look-out for a replacement H-pipe! Thanks Ewan