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It's terrible, I have to reality check my grandparents daily because they watched some clickbait AI YouTube trash.

Hmmm, have you verified that Android Auto is enabled in the car's settings? I believe there should be an icon for Android Auto Preferences or something like that where you can enable/disable Android Auto.

Does the phone still begin charging when you plug it into the newly installed hub? Does the same cable also work in the other cars?

oooo this is a neat tool, thanks for sharing

You should be able to smell if it was coolant. I second sk47's recommendation to check the firewall drain holes for clogs.

Fluid change will help, also make sure you have the proper fluid level. Also, consider resetting the adaptive learning. For jump into drive/reverse from park, does it help if you shift to neutral and engage the parking brake before shifting to park?

I am also curious about this

I would try resetting the window indexing first thing but could also be something going on with the door open sensor and/or the door latch needs grease

If all looks well then pads probably still just mating to rotors, I'm thinking TonyT930 nailed it and they just need more miles

Honestly those studs are quite easy to break and many who attempt the strut tower brace installation will break one. The repair is way more simple and straightforward than you may think and by your pictures it looks like they did a good job. Also, it seems unlikely to me that Batavia mangled...

Are you still on first few miles of driving with them? Have you performed any kind of bedding or break in procedure yet?

I think you're overthinking it I can't see how anyone could check for a mangled hole without at least removing the nuts

Higher lumens is more total light. Candelas is how focused that light is. 750/100000 will be a concentrated beam with more range 1500/34000 will be a broader beam with more overall illumination but much less range

Non PP car. I checked the items you listed multiple times, everything working. I even started a thread about it. I think it was just the summer heat, last summer my inlet air temps were ~145. Ambient was ~105 with high humidity. These were longer drives that eventually hit 230s. But it was...

Honestly they all copy each other these days. Who originally had the design? I sure don't know

My bone stock GT runs ~230 CHT in South Texas heat during normal driving

Hmmm, in that case it might just be a matter of alignment. Any way to adjust the mount/housing so the camera aims lower?

I'm guessing the new camera has a different field of view than the factory one. I don't think the lines on the screen are any different, it's just that the new camera has a different fishbowl effect.