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Havoc_5.0 is a nut about temps. He won't run his AC even in 90*summer heat, he loses his mind at 200* with his G3X on E85. I laugh at him and feel sorry for his son sweating in that heat. I run mine at 220* AC on all the time (when the car is running). I am also a non-pp car with the smaller...

Juggernaut stage2 fuel system with a set of ID1050X's and you have room to grow. It is a return style system, without the return line. It dumps the fuel at the regulator which is on the Radium fuel hat that comes with the kit. So no issue with the fuel getting heated up before being returned to...

That MIGHT be the best answer to that question in this whole thread.

@engineermike would you like to chime in on this?

Oh, I'm aware that that would be the fix, but going back to square one isn't what we want to do just yet. eventually, that is probably what we are going to do.

Mine won't pass in Maryland right now because the base tune that was used on my car is one for a PP1 car, and I don't have a PP1. The PP1's have a temp sensor for the rear and I am showing 2 codes for the temp sensor being out of range, and 1 for a secondary fuel pump circuit error. None of that...

Mike is correct. That guy was full of shit. I just confirmed those rings are just on the exhaust cams, not the intake and they were in tact on the old cams, so that was not the reason for the failure. The damaged heads are off the block and the PAC springs are on the heads that are going back on...

Another satisfied customer. I think it's @robvas who usually says "Wengerd for the win"

You need some sidewall in the rear. Putting the beans to a 20 inch tire with over 600whp you are on skates. Mickeys or R2's in a 305/45/17 and they'll hold way better than any "performance" tire.

I did the same thing when removing my original engine. We ended up hacking up that whole bracket. What an overbuilt piece of shit. No need for that bracket to be so bulky. It holds a piece of foam. All it is for is to quiet down the DI pump. I have a blower car with headers, no cats, just a...

And a beer!!

Wengerd...don't look back.

Yes, you and I have chatted about this. I am going to see what's what on this new set.

Now the bitch of it is getting on the header studs to get them off to remove the heads. It's very very tight in there and we're on the drivers side. The passenger side is worse..

A lot!!!

Me. I was the one who handled the cams. I had no idea there are supposed to be those rings. I removed the cams myself. I don't remember seeing them. I certainly don't know how they went missing, other than there was a decent amount of time between removal and re-install so maybe someone at my...

As the title says, I have been fighting cam correlation and timing codes for almost the entire time I have had the built engine back in the car. I mentioned in another thread (that I kind of hijacked, sorry OP) that I was having this issue and noted what we thought had happened. It turns out...

If you are talking about the plugs on the back side of the block, that attached to the original intake for the IMRC's, then yes. You are supposed to tape them up really well. They are no longer needed.

See the post from Whipple right above yours.

A really bad (in a good way)movie about break dancing from like 1984. Great soundtrack.