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Does any other load (headlights, brake lights, ac compressor) make any difference? Or is this issue solely isolated to the window motor load when going all the way up? Does the same issue present when you put the window all the way down? What is the voltage reading when running (fine) and then...

I am pretty certain it's a luck of the draw kind of thing on these cars. When your luck is good, and the non concentric output flange, DS, and pinion flange all cancel out the harmonics and vibrations and out of balances of the others, it's all good. When that doesn't happen, you can try...

Just removed from my car. Works perfect. Wrapped in Tessa tape. $50 shipped. PayPal only.

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Idk if it's helpful but here it is after Google translate got done with it

Very nice work!

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Anyone in need of these parts? Cluster has around 55,340 miles on it. Everything worked perfectly when removed. $80 for all shipped in the US.

True I did buy them and they didn't work for what I was trying to do, but they also already sold on my end.

I can understand not doing more than one thing at a time, but i did all of mine at once a month or two ago. Just go all in, do it right, and be done with it, that's my mindset unless I'm trying to diagnose something specific.

You are heading down a rabbit hole if you are anything like me lol

I ended up doing the Steeda spherical bearings in the lower control arm, the FP Toe Link to Knuckle bearings. That is about it regarding the moving IRS parts I think. From what I read, those two provide the difference and improvement and the vertical link and the toe links don't really provide...

You might get lucky, but I wouldn't personally count on it. At least after my experience. It took most of my 20 ton press to get mine out. Installing the Steeda sphericals afterwards were easier to push in but still took some force. Might be able to do the sawzall cut method for removal, then...

The FP toe link to knuckle bushing is a nice upgrade. But to be honest, judging my your sig I don't see a spherical lower control arm bearing upgrade, and (for me) that would be much better money spent than changing the toe links themselves. The toe links (with the FP bushing upgrade) are...

Probably the accessory drive belt for the AC compressor on the front of the engine. Take a look

@WItoTX something has been bugging me about this. Maybe you can answer the question. When I experienced this howl, I put the car up on jackstands and gave it a shakedown. When I found the drivers side rear wheel had a ton of play in it, I thought 100% the wheel bearing was shot. Jumped on the...

When you had the car up in the air, did you check to see if any of the wheels were "sloppy"? I had a noise like this on mine once and the rear axle nut on one side had loosened up.

Not sure it helps, but I just had my cradle out of my 2015 and there was no harness like in your picture above. Interested to see what you find out about where this circuit joins the main bundle though.

I personally wouldn't want less threads protruding with the nylock nut setup. I didn't want to go with 130mm screws and cut them off either, because of the heat generated when cutting off a bolt and the fact that they are nylock nuts. Maybe I over-thunk it.. but that is just how I did it. I even...

Yes there are a couple of threads protruding, I wanted to make sure there was full engagement in the nylock portion of the nut. I believe 120mm without machining would have resulted in the threaded screw ending at flush or sub-flush of the nylock nut in my case, which I did not want. Also yes...