I don't even have a Stang any longer so .... :D
I wouldn't worry to much about it. Not sure if you have e.g removed the 5.0 badges on the front fenders. They are sitting really tight and only with tape and pins.
But we can conclude the deck lid scratches just by looking at it and an oem strap...
The MACH 1 letters are most likely attached with automotive adhesive tape. The badge on the export models, that front cap has come loose as it is only glued I believe. Adhesive tape (3M VHB) is almost impossible to remove even if you wanted to
I hated the GT badge from day one I would have done...
That is why you have the MACH 1 badge you just put your fingers there and close.
The only thing the faux gas cap/GT badge on the export model is any good for is when closing the deck lid :D
Not sure on the M1 which part number goes where. On my GT350 magneride lowering springs from FP they where marked with an L and R on the last character of the part number if I remember it correctly
Also reaching the limter of the car in stock form is not an issue at all and there is plenty more to be had from a speed perspective
Reaching around 300km in a slightly tuned and removed limiter is very well possible
if you look at how easily the car reaches 250 in stock form, then I don't...
Those are not for heat extraction as far as I know they are mainly there for pressure relief. For sure will some heat escape from there.
I believe with the new grille and aero I would just let it be, but that's just me.
Was thinking if the length of the res deletes from Steeda and Roush are not the same and if someone goes with Steeda and cuts with the measurements from Roush and ....
As long as the mufflers are supported while cutting I see no risk of damaging the parts related to the active exhaust.
Do all the res-deletes have the same lengths?
Thinking if that measurement is for a specific delete.
Steeda only says this in their manual
and yes the provided clamps do not hold the tips aligned for long