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I would not be stepping foot on a track with the 4 piston calipers, so I can't recommend anything for that. For a few parade laps they will be fine, but if you're actually driving hard you will overheat those in a matter of minutes. I would not call that a track prepped car by any means.

Base GT brakes will not hold up to track use, regardless of what pads you use. You should be upgrading to performance pack brakes, and stock pads/rotors will work for light tracking but if you're going to be going all out you'll need an upgrade there. Also more cooling and better fluid.

There's no real reason why light mods and a tune will decrease mileage when cruising by much if at all. Usually tunes and such make the engine more power when accelerating hard, but at cruise and light throttle they ain't messing with it much to really affect efficiency.

No, the GT500 uses the 15-17 body style so it won't fit as is. You'd need to swap over to 15-17 headlights, bumper and fenders in order for the hood to fit.

Not of the one in the trunk as that's pretty self explanatory, but the backseat I did. I bet I could fit 3x305 in the back as there's plenty of room side to side.

I initially purchased their tuning suite 17 years ago when I was tuning LS engines...I doubt Ford even knew what a 10R was at that time so I didn't get this guide. I tried disabling the adaptive feature with Forscan, and the car drove worse than ever. For me, driving around with the active...

I can fit 3 wheels in the back seats (2x285 and 1x305) and 1x285 in the trunk.

Yeah I'm not worried about the actual shift points, those seem pretty on point. If I'm messing around anyway I'll be in full manual mode so those don't matter. But anything else I do want to make better. Can you shoot me a PM with what you have? Thanks!

Are you able to share your .hpt tune? Or at least what parameters you've changed and worked well? I'm just starting to get into messing with the transmission now after dialing in the engine side. Seems a bit overwhelming with all the gears and different mapped points.

#1 for performance while still offering good ride quality would be Billsteins with the FP X springs. A close second would be the FR track shocks with the X or W springs.

And there's no other restrictions besides the mileage? The one company I looked at for a similar policy specifically stated that it could not be used as a commuter car and only occasional weekend driving.

Can you drive it as much as you want any time you want? Or are there limitations on mileage and where you can go?

Did he have to tell Ford where and how the fire occurred? What did he say to that? And I'm surprised that Ford didn't ask for a police report of the incident that would match his testimony (which obviously wouldn't exist since it didn't happen on a public road). And he just showed up to a Ford...

What I struggle with is the word "abuse" or the phrase "past designed limits". None of those are defined what exactly they entail, so how can we as the consumer determine what is abuse and what isn't. Is taking the car to the OEM rev limiter 6 times in the span of 1 minute considered abuse? Or...

If you have your car towed into a dealer with a hole in the block while having a cage installed will be instant denial of any warranty services. Your best bet is to avoid all traces of you ever going to a track day if you have any hope in them helping you out. But even then it's not a...

Fun yes, in no way is a manual faster when all else in equal. By this I mean the 10R80 or DCT vs. the rest. The 6R80 and previous autos are not included.

To be fair, the exhaust sounds raspy and loud because it has no mufflers and/or resonator(s)...not because it's a true dual setup that lacks a crossover. If you put in a true dual resonator and some quality mufflers, it would sound pretty good and not raspy.

A PP1 Mustang with Magride and the 10R80 will keep up with a non-R 350 on an actual track. The only reason the R would win is because of R spec tires...if you put those on the PP1 it will once again keep up. This thing will absolutely blow both out of the water...well at least for a few laps...

If the first shop that performed the alignment did a bad job at it I could definitely see tires needing to be replaced that soon. But without pictures and/or specs of the alignment it's tough to tell. Also rotors can easily be measured to see if they truly need replacing.

Those results make sense, and seem to be similar to what the gains are from a 15 to 18 manifold eg. mainly up top.