I can't find my purchase order but I want to say this looks about right: https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts/ford-glove-box-lamp-1s4z14413a
You can track down the plug pigtail if you want to get really fancy but since I just wanted to get the thing in after finding no plug I trimmed the...
The wiring is not there, you will have to add it. I just wired it to the power outlet in the center console. The power is on constant and will shut down with the BCM just like the original. The factory light just mounts right to where they should have put it in the first place and it works...
While I think the exhaust is the exact same between the S550 and S650 you've posted to the GT350 section so you probably won't get much response. You'll likely find more traction looking at 7G for your S650: https://www.mustang7g.com/forums/
Disconnect where you tapped into the camera for turn on power. Temporarily use the amp power to turn on the system (jumper remote to bat+) and drive around to see if it still happens. The likelihood that an electrical component causes a misfire somehow if far less likely than the likelihood...
Capability /= action. And even then you are a far cry from showing intent. It's ok to be suspicious of capability but extrapolation of that to the other two is the territory of lunatics.
It's inside the wheel, anything that could hit the backside could also come around from the equally exposed front side. More telling, Ford produced thousands of them and put them on the streets with warranty coverage. If splashing them was a risk they would not have taken it.
It doesn't warn you because with the door lock button or door handle, the alarm doesn't arm until all the doors close. As an example, if you pop the trunk and lock the doors, particularly at night, you will be treated to a retina-searing flash of the brightest taillights known to man leaving...
Well, if I knew it was going to be that kind of party...
I suppose if we need to be sure we can pull the modem out, smash it, light the parts on fire and dance around it. It's the only way to be sure.
They do look nice and clean together. I ultimately decided I don't care how it looks which is what led to my decision to check for noise then remove.
If they touch, they will rub. Then they will wear in on each other over time and end up looking bad. If you are going to keep it, I'd trim it...
Take it off. I took mine off to get to the PCV line and just decided to run without it to see if it got noisy. To my surprise, it didn't. I expected the DI to get clackety but I can't hear a difference with and without so I left if off.
Those were AB but they sure were the hottest little AB amps I ever dealt with. Reps tried to tell me it's because the heat sinks were so efficient if you'll believe that. Before D became the norm, there was nothing that would kick out a sub like them, now this fits in the palm of your hand.
Bass you could cook your eggs on.
As a general rule-of-thumb, add up the protection fuses installed on all of your amplifiers. Those are absolute maximum, when lightening strikes values of what the amp can draw. That sum is an absolute maximum with headroom value that your audio system will...
Not all 800W are created equal either. Newer switching rail amps put 80% power down to the speaker compared to something like an old Fosgate 800a2 that put less than half down and cooked everything around it with the rest. There's more of course but the short of it is I've never had a system...
I preferred the HIDs in the 2017 to the new LED design, much better lights. However, I think the LEDs degrade over time. We have machines I work on that stay up 24/7 and have a panel of devices with LED lit displays. You can always tell which ones have been replaced because the replacement...
Ford did it twice on a 5.0, once each with both types of TB protocols. You'd expect that somebody else would have done it or copied their homework by now.