Thanks. I haven't messed with the suspension yet. (other than removing the hubs to press in ARP studs)
I may tackle the Control arm bushings as well while Im doing this, and install the Steeda Bearings. Looks they come with an install tool, but unsure if the diameter of the control arm...
I see, so you're saying that the toe link itself has the bearing in it, but the knuckle has a rubber bushing? Also that (looking at your photos) Where the knuckle connects to the lower control arm, appears to already have the bearing in it?
A good paint job is only as good as the prep work.
OP could simply just take the calipers and brackets of the knuckle (leave the lines connected) and get a cheap rotary sander and remove the yellow. Leave them raw aluminum.
10 Amp, 7 in. Variable-Speed Rotary Polisher/Sander
Rock auto sells the Factory Red calipers. Just need to convert the fronts to the 6 piston Brembos. ( I assume you have the 4 piston calipers up front). $1500 Powdercoat option is absurd.. If not, just replace them with the OEM stuff. The G2 caliper paint works great, and won't come off like...
Your fuel mileage will be primarily affected by how you drive it, not by a few bolt-on parts and a tune that adds 20-30HP at 7500 RPM. I imagine that you won't see a difference
I'd argue that there are a few other cars out there for the sub (or at $100k) price range that compete with an S550 GT500. And no, a GT350 isn't one of them.
ZL1 1LE-
2022 Chevrolet Camaro ZL1 Coupe RWD - $72,777 - CarGurus
Nicely optioned Stingray. Not as much power, but just as fast around...
This is a mistake in my opinion. You should be using a vacuum block fed directly from the intake manifold to provide vacuum/boost reference to all of the accessories that need it. You don't want to send boost pressure back to the fuel tank
This would indicate to me that they used the correct...
What fuel system did you install? If you have 2 or more fuel pumps, for sure you have some sort of controller (really just a relay box that takes power from the battery and runs the pumps at 100% all the time) It would either be under the back seat next to the FPDM somewhere, or in the spare...
Check to see which wire at the FPDM was used to trigger your Pump Controller. Should be the Yellow/gray, not the Green/Purple
A purge valve issue (or the line from the tank to the Purge valve) could also cause this
Are you sure that this noise you are hearing actually has anything to do with the crank sprocket? When you keep taking everything apart, and relieving pressure from the balancer against the sprocket, it may just be walking forward a bit, but not actually leaving a gap when everything is assembled.
Is it the same length as the OEM bolt?
The installer has a bearing on it to reduce drag and marring the mating surface between the Balancer and washer. I'd be using that.