If the book on the warranty work is 8 hours and they crank it out in 4, are they not reimbursed for the 8hrs and now have 4hrs to double dip with more work? Generally speaking of course. Iād think the dealership can make some money on warranty work.
A possible way around key count issues being too low is to buy a second ECU, copy it off your OEM one, tune the second one, and swap them as needed. However, after an extended time youāll still end up with cycle discrepancies.
To bring this back on topic, I foresee a āTHE DEALER WANTS ME TO PAY...
If LTFTs are disabled, anything 10% and under is generally acceptable at idle. Sure, closer to 0% would be great, but there is a lot that impacts your STFTs.
The terminal labeling is for color. R = Red/Power. B=Black/Ground.
Do you have a photo of what youāre working with? I am trying to recall from memory.
Youāre going to want a stickier tire for sure. Thereās about 9,000 posts on here about it. Just use that lovely search function in the top right to lead you down a black hole of info.
I totally understand and agree. The deadhead system is more than enough. If Lund says no, itās simply because they donāt want to put in the effort to write a tune for it.
If youāre considering the F1 Procharger, I think the comparative ESS unit is the G4.
Both units will get the job done. If youāre familiar with Procharger just stick with the tried and true. This is coming from an ESS owner.
If you havenāt already, I would send them the fuel system info you want and ask that itās acceptable (for them). Itās absolutely acceptable and safe, but I think a return system tune may have some differences from a deadhead setup.