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Boy, you guys must have tons of money, not only for the lift but to have a garage that has a high ceiling. Some of the photos look almost like a commercial type garage like a repair shop in terms of height clearance. My house was built in 2009 and doesn't have that kind of clearance. I suppose...

Depending upon the wife, it could cause her to leave :crying:

As others said, go with the Mach 1. Also, based on the mileage, age, etc. see what your car would be valued stock and then add all the costs of the mods you put in and see if they'll give you all that (they should). If they won't give you full value for the mods you put in, then pull it all out...

From what I heard, State Farm doesn't issue any homeowner's policies in FL anymore and I wonder what companies are left that still do. Those hurricane claims over the years are in the billions. I was just "forced" to have my comp deductible raised to $500 because I had 4 windshield-related...

I also understand that the '24 has Auto stop/start system which you have to disable each time you start the car if you don't want it activated. I suppose if you have a programmer you could disable it all the time, but I'm just not a fan of that "feature". I looked at the owner's manual and it...

I don't like dyes either, not to mention that it takes a while for the dye to leak out where it's visible under UV light. A good quality electronic leak detector is the way to go as the good ones will detect 0.1 oz. leak per year; that's sensitive!

Sounds like you have an A10 against a manual Camaro. Even with a good driver, the manual will have a hard time against the A10 in straight line accel and smoking tires is just a waste of power with lack of forward progress.

Yes, that's annoying. We have 2 lane highways here and they even post signs "slower traffic keep right" and yet someone on the right is going 5 below the limit and the guy on the left is pretty much pacing him so no one can pass. I like Washington state where (at least on the freeway I saw...

In our area, I see a lot of Teslas with aggressive driving, speeding, etc. The ones that are driving normally or below speed limit must be low on battery charge so they're trying to extend their range to make it to the next supercharger station.

I recall in the 80's/90's some GMs (Celebrity, etc. w/2.8L V6) used to get up to 225-227 deg. F before the cooling fan would turn on if you're stopped. If you're on the highway at 55 mph the temp would be 195-198 F since you had enough air flow through the radiator.

I think of the Subaru Justy back in the 80's that I had the "pleasure" of driving when I worked part-time at Budget Rent-a-Car. It was one of their cheapest cars to rent and I believe it was a 1.0L with a 4 speed manual; it was kind of peppy as long as you were the only occupant.

Nice. And it really does look generally like the early Broncos; my brother had a purple '75 w/302-2V.

At least you got the better one; I understand the original base Bronco came with a 1.5L 3 cylinder engine. I would never settle for that one, just something about odd number cylinders doesn't sit well with me.

The best thing to do is not drive by "feel" but actually do acceleration tests to compare. BTW, until 9/30 24 Chevron's app gives you $1 off per gallon of gas for 3 fillups up to 25 gallons per fillup (if you're installing the app for the 1st time, not sure if they give you that if you're...

Even if the base gasoline comes from the same refineries, what's different is the additive package each seller puts into the gasoline. For example, HI only has one refinery and all the gasoline comes from there, so Chevron, Costco, Sam's Club, 76, etc. all the same except for the additives the...

Since the SCOTUS struck down the NY requirement to show good cause/reason for the permit, Hawaii also was "forced" to issue permits. They do issue permits now but the Legislature rammed a lot of bills through that essentially makes almost everywhere outside your home as a "sensitive area" where...

Yes, that's the classic sidewall separation between the cords and the casing that's usually caused by hitting a curbing or something though I think a defect in manufacturing could result in that.

I did some "research" a few years ago as to what exhaust noise levels were allowed and most countries seemed to be around 95 dbA when measured 20" from the exhaust tip at a 45 degree angle from it's outlet. When I measured the exhaust of my car, I was surprised that it was about 98 dbA peak when...

Yeah, it doesn't sound like a rod knock which I have heard in the past on older engines that have a heavier deep knocking sound. This sounded like a light metallic ticking which was usually loudest from the top of the valve covers like the old Chevy OHV engines with worn rocker arms or pushrods.

Same here. It'll be my last new car especially since I only have about 6,800 miles on it for an almost 4 year old car. I love how it drives and sounds even without having active exhaust. At 71, I don't know if I'll still be driving in 20 years.