I'd think not, but in this case definitely maybe :wink:
I noted earlier in this thread that a mere camber change increased the clicking immensely. Maybe ten fold. Because of that, I think the broken washer theory definitely suggests that spacers could cause additional clicking. I would love to...
It sounds very similar to what mine sounded like. How tight did you torque them down? @ 150 mine don't click, and it hasn't returned, but I have had the wheels off and on quite frequently lately.
I don't have anything valuable to add, I'm just surprised and a bit confused about why it seems to be so hit and miss. I don't think that I've only ever driven on pristine roads, but maybe that's it.
Mine when stock and also later with -2.4 deg camber and just a bit of toe in never once...
I don't remember for sure, but I seem to remember reading a honeybadger post that the available adjustable FLCA's available were less than ideal for some reason.
+1 on the AWE. I only ever want it full open or full closed.
The most annoying thing about the factory setup to me was how it seemed to partially close up at certain times while in sport mode, and the AWE put a stop to that. I appreciate what the computer is doing, it's just not for me.
I think it will go around -3.6 to -3.9 or so (will check exactly later) just in case it's needed, doubt I'll need that much room but wanted it available just in case. I'll be starting at -3.3 next outing and will work up or down from there.
Check out these rubber grommets:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MSBVH79/
The fit is perfect. They look flimsy in the product picture, but they are not. Quite rigid, fit is very snug, no adhesive needed. They only extend 1/16" of an inch inwards from the groove, so they won't block you...
^^^ I'm also very interested but not inclined to take it apart and look for myself... yet.
Still I'm always watching this thread like a hawk in case any info pops up about the severity of this problem. So far everything seems fine. I've had the wheels and tires off several times, so the...
It would be nice to be able to firm them up a bit more, but I was just hoping it would be a simple swap so I'll leave it alone for now and see how she does.
Roger that. As far as the alignment goes, the tires said -2.4 camber (maxed out) in the front wasn't quite enough, and I also noticed afterwards a mistake in the rear toe that wasn't helping: the shop was aiming for .30 degrees toe in on both sides, and I ended up with .71 total rear toe in...
All I was after initially with the mods was to get rid of the understeer, so since the damper situation is not so simple and straight forward, I'm just going to leave it alone. Thanks a ton for the help!
Thanks! That sounds familiar, must have forgotten that along the way.
And here I thought I'd have it easy.
I do love the magneride. Getting to cruise around with a very comfy ride but having a noticeable improvement at the push of a button is one of my favorite things. I'll keep the R dampers...
With firmer springs now on the car I'd like to firm up the dampers a bit, and I figure the factory R tune, if stiffer, would be a good starting point if it's not a big hassle. The DSC controller sounds fun, may go that route if I can't get the R damper settings into my non-R. Many thanks in advance.
Thanks, and yes, camber bolts were my first thought, but I don't have the strut clearance necessary.
It would be nice to cut open the tower while I've got everything apart, but I suppose I can put new plates on and give it a shot first.
Thanks, Mike.
The factory 104y on the front of mine with stock suspension did not have enough camber at -2.4. I have some goodies on the way including the 350R cup 2's and just want to make sure I've got what I need to make any necessary adjustments before my next outing.