Some more in progress pics.
Factory battery box and hardware plate removed:
Making some space to mount remote battery terminals where the box used to be:
(2) 3/8" studs holding box and battery:
Mounted through the pinch weld and the battery box vent tube:
Rerouting the fuel system...
Mounted the Moroso NHRA sealed battery box using the required 3/8" studs.
Got the box vented to atmosphere outside of the car. Next step is to pull the wiring, which I need to purchase still. Moving right along on this project.
The one you pictured has a plastic switch which isn't NHRA legal. Just fyi. I also got a high rated amp switch instead of something cheaper.
The reason I wanted the lever was the ease of connections and working on the switch. You got to keep in mind how large the switch and the connections are...
Moved on to the battery relocation project.
Picked up a battery:
Mounted the Flaming River big switch with lever kit to get me started. This will help locate where the battery box goes. It needs to have 3/8" studs that mount into the frame rail to be legal:
Looks like this when the...
It's been a busy start to the weekend. Wednesday night I fired up the mustang for the first time in a while, we've had about a month of sub-zero temps. Before starting it, I needed to put the charge piping back on. It was rewarding to hear it run again. Yesterday I had the chance to help a...
Same connections at the PCM/Fuse box location, I believe.
Sniper red power wire to violet at battery junction box, Fuse 44
Sniper yellow wire for tach signal to white/violet coil control on C175E harness, pin #21
Sniper black wire to chassis ground
Sniper white wire to to pin #15 as you...
Yeah you guys are right. I thought the verbiage changed that regardless of location the switch needed to be added. Outside of class rules, just general requirements for exhibition, it can stay exactly like it is.