Yup! Mine looks the same. Although even with spirited mountain driving my temps stabilize at 196-198. Just commuting it'll rarely see 194, actually depending on how long I drive it may not eve heat up fully. It usually takes me about 30 minutes of driving to get to 180.
Definitely change your brake fluid if you are an experienced driver. For beginners with the GT350 the stock brake fluid is fine, but if you're fast then I'd throw some RBF660 in it. The stock pads should be good, but the same rules apply, if your fast throw some DTC-60 or 30 on them, especially...
For what its worth I have a 23 GT 10AT and I've done 3 track days now with it 90 ambient and I've never seen any trans temp above 208. Now I may not be pushing it as hard as you all but maybe there is a 180 degree Tstat.
Ehhhh, gain power everywhere... more than likely not. It is very rare to simply replace one part and gain power everywhere. Not saying it's impossible, you just have a really good tuner or other parts installed on your engine. My statement was referring to replacing just the headers and nothing...
The SVE wheels are great! I run at 19x10 SVE M1 rep set that saved me 44 lbs of unsprung mass from the PP1 wheels. Massive difference in performance :like:
The G-Track Extreme K member brace from Steeda is amazing! I had it on my last mustang and plan to buy it very soon for my new 23 GT. It definitely helps with turning stability and predictability. It'll help with cornering ability a little but the most important thing is you'll be able to feel...
Ford had to pass an obscene amount of DOT and NHTSA tests to pass before they could legally sell the GT with 235 tires. I assure you 235s are completely fine. Now, I would absolutely prefer 255 and actually a square 285 set up, but the 235s get the bare minimum job done :like:
40lbs of unsprung weight savings is equivalent to ~210lbs of sprung weight savings. Its a massive difference and you will notice a signification gain in acceleration and braking. But I would not daily skinnies for any reason. Its just plain not safe.
I second recommending a set of drag wheels, but with that set up I'd personally go with a set of Michelin Cup 2Rs if you plan to just putz around town and go to the strip every once in a while. They provide a ton of grip and can last for 7-10k miles. If its more of a drag and weekend car then go...
You'll more than likely be fine if you're only running a few hot laps, but watch your fuel consumption. I have a friend who is roush stage 3 and he can only last 15 minutes before he's out of gas. But he is one hell of a driver and hauling ass every lap!
The way you phrased your statement it sounded like you burned through the stock pads "much like" the Hawks. But still did you glaze the stock pads or just wear them all the way down?
When you get to that level of racing its about saving the most possible weight without sacrifice too much performance. So for F1 cars the front tires can be smaller than the rears because there is a point where the weight would cause more issues than the extra tire size. Also the amount of...
The manufacturers make them staggered for a lot of reasons, but mainly its to force understeer vs oversteer. A square set up will outperform every aspect of a staggered set up except straight-line drag racing. You could easily find a set of wheels or your GT350 that have a square set up, like...