I agree about the multiple bumps and stuff, but I personally don't mind the competition especially if the prices are highly visible. This incentivizes the vendors to do better if they see their competitors prices plastered front and center on the forum.
I don't have a favorite vendor, I go by...
Yes it physically bolts onto the block, but it's not the only thing that needs to be swapped out in order for it to work. If you have the engine as a bare shortblock, yes it's easy to bolt on. If you have the engine in the car, you can't just drop the pan and put a new one up in it's place. You...
Parts are generally interchangeable between the generations, so as long as they used the matching Gen 2 oil pump and pickup tube then it will work with the Gen 2 pan. You just can't use Gen 3 oil pumps with Gen 2 pans.
You're going to have to confirm which pan exactly was installed on your motor, as they both take vastly different amounts and if you mix that up you're going to be either severely over or severely under.
Still, doesn't take away from the beating they took. I'd rather a street car that had its oil changed every 5,000 miles rather than a track car that had its oil changed every 100 miles.
You hit 255* for the 10R80 fluid? That thing is toast my friend, you'll be changing alot more than fluid very soon.
This won't help with temps on track, you need some serious upgrades. That or making sure you don't have any restrictions in the trans cooling system.
It's not any less safer, if you look in the fine details of the tune itself it has the same safety parameters as the OEM tune. However it's more octane (and heat) dependent since it's a bit more aggressive with the timing, so that's where people tend to have issues on track. Either by not using...
What have you done to keep it cool? That is equally as important as increasing the strength of certain parts.
If it were me, I'd skip the OPG (unless you plan on revving to over 8000rpm) and do a nice balancer to prevent alot of the bad harmonics that kills the OPGs. Something like the new...
7.5 years is way too long for me, IMO after 5-6 years I tend to replace them regardless of tread depth.
Those tires are known to be crap to even when new, now put 7+ years on them and they become even worse.
I'm on the older version of the top Michelin all-seasons, I think they are the A/S3+ or something like that. They are very good in the rain, decent in snow but I think the DWS06 are a bit more aggressive than these.
Yeah that's should be fine, I commute on rt2 and 495 north up to Lawrence and those are well taken care of. The side roads, not so much but still doable.
Those are some of the better all-season tires around, so you'll "get by" but don't expect it to be easy especially in deep deep snow. Slush, ice and a few inches on the ground you will be fine. More than 6 and you're going to struggle.
But when is there ever going to be that much snow on most...
Depends on how you drive or the intended use of the car, but as previously mentioned it doesn't really matter much. You won't notice any difference in alignment between GT nonPP and GTPP.
Have you not seen cars emit visible exhaust all over the road, especially on cold days?
It's normal operation, unless as previously noted it has a distinct color or smell.
It's worth it for the magnetic tip, but keep in mind these are still "wear" items just like the OEM plug. Maybe not quite so often, but it definitely needs changing. I found this on mine twice now, and have since moved back to the OEM plug. What happened with mine is the little ears/tabs that...
Yes the MAF tube is bigger, thus requiring a tune. Simply having a bigger tube is not an issue, the PCM can adjust a little bit. But if the MAF tube itself is a different size, it will all be wrong.