So the idea of running skinnies is to reduce weight, right?
Problem is cheap wheels are normally heavy. Though admittedly, almost anything will be lighter than the stock wheels.
I am 6'4", and my view out of both cars is pretty similar with my head barely clearing the roof. Maybe you short guys can't see over the cowl/hood of the Camaro?
Who cares about Golf clubs?
Better track car is a primary consideration when I am buying the premium, track ready version of the car...
What are your goals?
If you are willing to sacrifice lowering for ride quality, stay stock.
Is handling a factor (thinking no based on your tire choice and the daily driver statement)?
I think the idea is that a Torsen is more complicated and generates some extra heat all the time. While going straight a clutch limited slip is essentially an open diff with nothing extra going on and no extra heat after the initial corner exit.
Why?
Worse than stock brakes for actual braking.
Seems like a relatively low value mod for a drag car, and you don't have a long list of drag specific mods (that should come first).
Yes this has been my problem with the Mach 1 from day 1. GT350 light in terms of performance, but for too close to GT350 money. Makes a Camaro SS 1LE look like a screaming deal even before you factor in the likely discounts.
Not in CAM-C. Yes, in the lower classes.
The TT rule specifics were still semi secret last time I looked. A terrible idea.
In road racing there is no decent class for a road legal, stock-ish Mustang.
Because it's $350 a weekend verses a very low chance of a track day incident?
Personally I think it is way over priced. But a lot depends on the driver.
If it allows you to drive without worry it might be worth it, assuming it doesn't give you so much confidence such that you drive too...
Scarce compared to 275 maybe, 285/35 has good selection. 305/35 is pretty bad, which forces guys to 305/30 square.
And for track use I would try to go square, and certainly wouldn't skimp on the front wheel size.
Well the LMR 10" wheels are not all the same. Some are +40, some are +35.
But I agree, with decent camber, even my 350 replicas with wider than average NT-01 285/35 on +40 wheels +5mm pacers (+35 effective) has good bit of room before it would be flush.
The limit is the rear, where +35 is...
While I don't disagree with you. The average 16 year old is happy riding on the bump stops because it "looks cool". So many coil overs allow you to set them too low to suit that market.
Physics doesn't change. You can't lower a car a ton without screwing up the suspension geometry and riding...
The redline on most cars is 1000 RPM beyond when peak power is made. Why?
With most cars shifting 500 to 1000 rpm past peak power is faster. More area under the curve, and taking advantage of the higher torque multiplication in the lower gear. If it saves a shift or two, even better.
I think going bigger on the spare wheel is easy. Its finding a suitable tire that fits this bigger wheel and still fits in the spare tire well that I suspect is the trick.
With a big spacer and longer studs up front.
Wheel selection that will clear the brembos is limited (and usually somewhat pricey) in 18. Street tire selection in 275+ is also limited in 18. Race tire selection is better in 18.
Take a hard look at what tire you want to use (and is available)...