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Agree with the above - I wouldn't drive it if you don't absolutely have to. This code means the ECU is calling for a specific cam timing and it's not getting it. Not ideal running conditions. I'd call the dealer and see what they say. If they say drive it, at least you have some guidance.

I don't personally have any insight/position since I'm unfamiliar with the DI system. The GT350 only uses port injection with a returnless-style fuel supply. That said, I know a tune revision came out in 2019 that folks said helped eliminate some of the piston slap. so there could be something...

The Steeda one only offers a 16 lbs weight savings for $1,500 and from what I've heard, no other advatnages. So part of it has just been prioritization for other improvements (especially since I needed to modify my k-member for the radiator mounting anyways. There's also the possibility going...

not just that, but with long tubes. dude is either deaf or has a funny sense of what's obnoxious. My car is essentially straight piped and it's absolutely appalling loud. Fun at WOT on a race track, though. For a serious answer, i'd assume the double or triple x pipe is going to help attenuate...

Current plan is to see how bad it is sitting on the ground at ride height. If worth risking, I'll put some skid plates on the frame rails and give it a try. But if I need go the custom route, I'll look into them.

I mentioned earlier that I was going to replace the OEM rear lines after I couldn't get them to flare right when I needed to make a modification to them. Another component that led to me being pro-new lines was this section around the air jacks. Not sure if I just couldn't figure out how to get...

I gotcha'. I just wanted to make sure it was clear since OP also has a GT350, so it's unlikely these are the problem.

just for clarity - the voodoo uses this tensioner too. it's actually from the Boss 302 engine program

I agree with @JAJ I either don't hear what you're hearing or I am just used to forged For coyote-based motors. Nothing sounded weird to me.

Made some more progress today. I plan to do a full write up on BMRS at a later point and why I chose their fittings/hoses, but that will come later. In the meantime, fuel cell area is plumbed and the lines ready to be sent off to BMRS for crimping. Flow is as follows: 8an from surge tank to...

Made some progress on the brake line install. As mentioned previously, I wanted to run hardlines as much as possible per the Bosch documentation and personal experience (braided lines need to be replaced every few years). pedal box is an underfoot tilton 600 series 2 pedal box. As you can see...

I use the steel 302 tensioner in my engines

Haha - don't misunderstand me, the chassis number still means a lot to me. Plus, the car has an insane amount of memories with it. I'll never get rid of it. Hope we're about to kick open the door to a whole new level. HB Mk III is going to travel the country. I specifically can't wait to go...

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Literally nothing left - it would have been so much cheaper to start with a GT. Only thing I am retaining that's 350 specific outside of body work is the block and heads and interior dash with chassis number. Trans, shocks, brakes, aero, crank, and coolers have all been replaced.

Made some more progress. Started working on the rear end install with the Penskes Nothing particularly novel back here - but I did end up buying all new wheel hubs. Original hubs I was using from OP Mustang were starting to show some wear that I didn't want to take a chance with given the...

Got the AN hard lines in last night for the air system. 3/8 AL tubing using tube nuts and collars wrapped in a fire sleeve for abrasion protection. I still need to secure them to the chassis - waiting on clamps from Summit. Here's a close up of how they fit. 37 degree single flare with a...

So, speaking of the radiator, I've been working with TracTuff on a swirl tank/header tank setup. Wondering what a swirl tank is? I was too when I embarked on this non-OEM cooling setup. Essentially, when you go with a setup like the one I am planning (no thermostat, electric water pump, rolled...

I think you'll struggle to get the RPM above 8200 with stock cams. At least that was my experience - we dropped power over 8k enough to make it pretty worthless to turn any higher than 8200 (I had a very similar build sheet to you - stock cams and intake, catless headers, built bottom end...

Remind me again, are you reusing stock cams? and stock intake manifold?