Chris is a good guy. I went to him for the pulley and tune on my 03 Cobra. He also welded in the frame rail connectors.
Crap, thinking about it, that was just about 20 years ago...
With it being soft brass you can work it slowly with progressively larger bits. If you load the bit with grease, you can minimize the chance of shavings dropping in. If you get the brass thin enough it might break out with an ez-out.
Without getting into whether or not they are present on the OP's vehicle... Every one I've dealt with was riveted in place. A drill or grinder will take the heads off.
I learned as a kid to handle the heavy wheels on my Dad's Peterbuilt. Roll the tire up on a crowbar, and use the leverage to lift it. I've taught my kids the same way, and it works well for my son, since he owns a big tired 4x4.
Realize that some wheel companies void their warranty if you powder coat their wheels. My guess is that the heat messes with the hardness of the wheel.
For street use the racing filters (not just Wix) that allow greater particulate matter through will cause premature wear. If it was only seeing track days, and the oil was getting changed after each race weekend, that would be a reason to use a race filter.
Both RaggTopp and 303 are good products. During the 17 years that I had my 03 Cobra vertn I used both. Those cars had the canvas tops vs. GTs that used vinyl. The canvas came from Jaguar, owned by Ford at the time. With those products, it still looked new when I said goodbye.
JAJ, impact wrenches are not the only issue. Back in the 1970's I dealt with these in the Northern Ohio rust belt. The snow and road salt would seep in and rust the steel nut, expanding and splitting the cap. This wasn't just a Ford issue. Most of the OEMs used them, and all were problematic...
No, no, no... That would be an oil ex-change. Oil changes are when you switch brands every time, using the cheapest stuff you can find. I have discovered that at yard sales the tin topped cardboard quarts are super economical.