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Having installed a diff cooler setup. It's easier than installing a finned cover. Get a pump, cooler fan combo, some AN hose and fittings, and drag some power to the rear with a switched relay in the car. Plumb it to the drain and fill ports on your stock cover.

Not much different running stock t-stat. I had plans of block off plates, etc, but instead I just change my oil more frequently with Kirkland's finest 5-30.

One last warning—It’s not big enough. Send it back, fab your own. There is no turn key solution to this unfortunately.

I can't figure out why some tracks cause temps to climb? Seems to defy logic. PittRace I can flog it no problem. Nelsons, I'll see some of the highest temps of any northeast track. I'd think, the higher the speed, the lower the temps. However, it's like the longer the sustained near/at 100%...

I stacked the plates--> Susa Spacer w/ 2 ports // Susa thermstat cooler // Oil filter. I don't like it in theory, but a year later, 20K miles and lots of track days it's still holding up. The only way to go in my opinion is the 948. I run the 6series 50 and it just barely gets the job done. But...

Unless something has changed I have a variety of mishi and setrab/susa plates I've accumulated. the Mishi plate has notably smaller female fittings than the Setrab--as in they are restrictive for even -10AN.

yes I do

yes all gone. I’m running the biggest series 6 setrab cooler and it’s still marginal. I started with a 25 row. The right way is the biggest series 9—it’s about the same size as the condenser! The oil and coolant heat rejection the coyote generates from 10+ minutes of track time is staggering.

im having good results using mishi’s radiator, but their oil cooler isn’t near big enough for hard track use. You need one about 4x the size.

you’ve way overthought this. Either swap pads, deal with brake fade, or drive noisy brakes on the street— your call.

Then you have me… I've piled about 20k miles on my car running GLOC R18/R12 year round including sub freezing temps. brand new GS1 still sitting in the box. I'm running titanium shims so that may help with noise, but they're not as noisy as the same combo in other cars I’ve run them. You learn...

pry bar and a rag to protect the paint works for me

The problem that jumps at me is the lower arm design requires one of the two joints at the cradle to have some deflection for the arm to cycle. once you replace the oem bushing with a spherical joint, It makes complete sense to me why a ball joint and a spherical joint won’t let the lower arm...

All depends on goals. Do you want "feel's stiffer" or "is faster"? Somehow my base GT has survived 18k miles and a "few" track days without bracing? I'd be curious ito know if adding xx lb. in stiffening really offsets dragging xx lb. in more added mass around a track?

You've clearly not track driven or maintained a properly built 1950lb car with 50/50 weight distribution and 4 wheel double wishbone suspension nor an overpowered V8, 1970s tech, stick axle/mcpherson strut car on steam rollers and shaped like a brick. It's like comparing apples to oranges in...

LOL note I said budget weighs into the equation in my formula. I don't see many LS S550's that you can buy turn key for ~$25K. Not to mention the cubic difference in consumable costs. You'd be surprised at how close a sub 1-ton car with modest power, aero, sticky rubber, and significantly...

now we’re into a philosophical and budget discussion… I only track my mustang because at this stage of life given my Financial and time budget, a dual duty “cool” car with a warranty makes sense to me I would never choose an s550 as a dedicated track car. In my opinion once you go full track...

1000% I would sell my mustang and go get a dedicated race car before I pulled AC even if driving to/from track only.

I don’t have experience with BMR but these things are nothing fancy you should be able to feel with your hand where it’s coming from. Get someone to help push on the front of the car while you feel around. It very well could be play in that spherical ball. It doesn’t take much gap for those...

The metal backing on the pads have some clearance to "float" inside the caliper. Every pad is a little different. Every time you apply the brakes the backing plates contact one side of the caliper If you're stumped on the noise, you might try pulling the pads and greasing the the contact...