https://www.opmustang.com/store/p2/BG_ULTRA-GUARD__2015-2020_FORD_MUSTANG_REAR_AXLE_LUBE_CHANGE_KIT.html#/
OP includes instructions with the order. Same for trans fluid. Easy.
I have both an EcoBoost auto and a GT manual. I like the GT better for the sound and the power. But I am very impressed with how quick the EB is in Sport+ mode. If I used a Mustang as a DD/commuter only I might pick the EB.
My only personal things that I dislike about the EB are the turbo lag...
Thornclaw,
Whatever application you drive your car in, you should expect a certain about of heat to need to be removed in order to stop the car (converting motion to heat). When on track you are removing much more motion, much more frequently. As such, the right pad makes a difference. When you...
If you e-mail Levittown your vin, they should be able to find the right parts. If your EB is a base model, it could be a good time upgrade the rear brakes completely. My sonās base EB is upgraded to what I have on my GT PP. I think it is the same as a EB PP. But Mike and Benny at Levittown were...
While everyone is reviewing their insurance policy, I'd say that it is a good time to make sure you have enough coverage. I was run down in a crosswalk (by, of all things, a Mustang) 7 weeks ago. Broken spine so now I've got screws and rods in my back. Gotta go back in Jan to get them taken out...
How often do you intend to run it on the track? Once or twice a year, I'd just change the pads, fluid, get grippier tires, and have fun. It costs big $$$ to start buying time reduction. But you are correct that 255's are on the lower end of traction. That said, I'm running staggered setup still...
HP+ pads chewed my rotors up faster than necessary. The suggestions by others to use OEM pads for a while are good. When you do go up, go Carbotech, G-Loc, or Hawk DTCs. Just donāt expect them to be pleasant on street as dual-purpose.
The range of -.3 to -3.0 should be fine for you. That is the range of camber it will adjust toā¦it does not mean how much more it will adjust from your current setting. For instance, It wonāt put -3.0 on top of your -2.75 for a total of -5.75.
You donāt want positive camber.
I ran Mich Pilot Spot A/S3+ tires my first time on track (VIR). They worked, but the only reason they worked was because I was so āgreenā. I had outgrown them by the end of the weekend. If this is your first track day experience it might be fine but I would not do it as a practice.
I haven't used Torco, but this is a frequently used one: https://www.opmustang.com/store/p4/store/p4/BG_Products_Syncro_Shift_II_Synthetic_Gear_Oil_-_MT82_Kit_.html.html#/
I just did mine this weekend. OP is great.
Edit: Howitzer is faster than I am. š
I use Lockton HPDE insurance. Iāve not had a claim but have heard good things from those who have.
Brakes: I would say that for so few laps and low speeds, youāre probably fine with the fluid and pads you have as long as they are fresh. But might as well get the DOT4 flushed in there. Always...
Really, the process Luc describes is what to do in this case since there are variables, including:
1. Camber adjustment at the hub vs. strut tower brace. Max camber at the hub will reduce inside clearance to strut.
2. Tire sidewall width (e.g.: Mich Pilot SC2 = .9" wider than Mich Pilot SS...
The ones with the bolts in them are the ones to avoid. I haven't shopped them, but I also don't think they offer them as narrow as 5mm. Look at the ones in the link I provided or in the second photo from Bloo.
I mentioned 12mm not knowing your car or tire dimensions (sidewall dimensions aren't all the same). I've seen a lot of posts from Luc over time and he knows his stuff, so if he's done it...probably good to follow him. When I had the OEM PP wheels I never tried them on the front before selling...